I hear the exasperation from homeowners several times a week in late winter and early spring. Their lawns will be littered with piles of soil that seem to appear out of nowhere. Voles are often blamed, yet an unrelated culprit known as moles are the really enemy in turf wars.
Moles, voles, schmoles, you may be saying. Knowing the difference, though, is critical in your approach to regaining control of your landscape. In short, moles are carnivores, meaning they eat meat. Voles are herbivores, meaning they eat vegetables. Voles devour roots, bark and lower vegetation, but rarely eat grass and their tunnels are rarely a big issue in the soil. Moles, on the other hand, just bomb about underground in search of whatever grub, worm or insect they can find.
When people ask what to do about moles, I often respond by telling them to cheer, “Go moles, go.” Moles eat the white grubs that become Japanese beetles and June beetles. In the big picture, these grubs and beetles do far more damage than moles to the overall landscape. Grubs damage grass roots; the beetles devour foliage of landscape plants.
“White grubs, in many locations, are the leading pest of grasses by far,” said associate professor Albrecht M. Koppenhofer, an entomologist from Rutgers University in New Jersey. “They can cause significant damage in certain situations, but people also should not overreact the first time they see a grub in the soil.”
Voles — These are the true varmints of the garden. They want your plants, plain and simple. If you’ve ever lost a fruit tree to girdling at the base, or a prized perennial that was chewed from the roots and left for dead, voles were the likely suspects.
Often called pine and meadow mice, the pine vole, Microtus pinetorum, and the meadow vole, M. pennsylvanicus, have become huge problems, especially in the East. Development has taken away their natural forest habitat, and also their natural predators, including fox, bobcat, weasels, snakes, owls and hawks.
Pine voles are reddish brown and small, about two to four inches long, with a short tail, blunt face, and tiny eyes and ears. Meadow voles are more gray in color. Both have tiny, yet prominent, sets of eyes. Because voles don’t hibernate, they feed year round on roots and underground stems of plants. They can tunnel on their own, but often borrow tunnels already burrowed by moles — thereby creating even more confusion among homeowners. If you find exit holes on the tunnels in your lawn and garden, chances are you have voles, not moles, since moles are blind and only come up for daylight by mistake.
Moles — When you see a mole close up, the differences from voles are obvious. Take one look at the webbed front paws and claws of the mole and you’ll instantly see why many texts refer to the critters as “master excavators.” They are also prodigious at the dinner table, able to eat up to their full body weight within a 24-hour period. Unlike voles, which travel in family packs, moles often live and work alone. They are also more active after sundown.
Their damage is usually fairly minimal; the displaced soil can easily be smoothed out with a metal rake. If you feel you must be rid of the moles, soaking the ground with castor oil will help, but the easiest way is to work on eradicating the source of food. In other words, get rid of the grubs and the moles will soon tunnel elsewhere.
The most effective natural way to control grubs is to apply microscopic organisms — known as beneficial nematodes — to the soil in May through early June or late August through September depending on your location. This timetable can vary greatly in warm-season climates and if you suspect grubs as a problem on your lawn, you should contact your local Cooperative Extension office to determine the insect’s lifecycle in your area. The Extension agent should also be able to point you toward a local source for the nematodes; Koppenhofer, at Rutgers, and many other scientists are constantly updating information on strains of the nematodes that work the best in certain climates against specific grubs.
The keys to success with beneficial nematodes are two-fold: 1) Be sure you have a treatable problem and 2) get the timing right. As a general rule of thumb, if you have five or fewer grubs per square foot on your lawn, you do not have a significant problem. You can test this by simply digging a square foot of soil to a depth of six inches. Break apart the soil and sod and count any grubs you find.
“A few grubs are a part of the natural system and people shouldn’t panic,” said Todd Harrington, the oft-cited natural lawn care professional from Connecticut. “In a healthy lawn with a healthy root system, I rarely see a grub problem worth taking action.”
If you do act, timing is everything. Grubs spend about 10 months of the year in the soil and two months of the year as adult beetles in the landscape above ground. Trying to kill the grubs just before they emerge from the soil in late spring or just after they lay eggs re-enter the soil in early autumn is paramount. Treating at other times won’t help a bit, whether you use a synthetic chemical or beneficial nematodes.
Applying beneficial nematodes is an easy, non-toxic exercise. You’ll need a device for your garden hose known as a hose-end sprayer and at least enough hose to reach all infected areas of your property. Further directions on mixing and application will be available from the nematode supplier.
One other treatment — You can also inoculate your lawn and garden with a white powder known as milky spore disease, but this usually takes two to three years to build up enough population to be fully useful. This product, according to Koppenhofer, has shown “highly variable” results.
“Since the commercially available strain of milky spore disease is ineffective against white grubs other than the Japanese beetle,” he said, “applicators who are interested in using milky spore disease should first make sure that their grubs are actually Japanese beetle grubs.”
One Other Note — Yes, it’s true the same poisons that rid homes of mice will also work to kill moles and voles When the snow melts this spring and you see tunnels and dead plants galore, you may be tempted to take out the toxins. In a word, don’t. These poisons, left in the open, will be fair game for every cat, dog, bird and child in the neighborhood.
Next week, I’ll provide more information on vole control.
Paul Tukey, January 19, 2006.
Thursday, January 19, 2006
Tuesday, January 10, 2006
The Eco-Shed: Tools of the Trade for the Natural Lawn
I hope you all had a great holiday season. At PPP, many of us were able to take some time to be with our families, but the arrival of January always gets us excited about the spring season ahead . . . especially when we have a break in the weather like we’re having this week.
I’ve actually been very busy at my computer. The rough draft of my book on natural lawn care is due at the publisher on Feb. 1, so I’ve put in a few late nights.
In lieu of a Tip of the Week this time around, I’m going to share a short sidebar that I’m working on for the book. I’d like your feedback, and to hear if you have any other ideas for essential tools for homeowners who care for their own lawns.
Here goes . . .
For most Americans, lawn care is the number one home maintenance activity. It’s our connection to the neighborhood, the outdoors and our personal stamp on the environment. As we’ve seen already in the book, the decision to care for one’s own lawn cannot be taken lightly. For beginners, however, the weight of that choice may first be felt at the hardware store before the first blade of grass is ever cut.
Fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides aside, it’s often easy to tell if someone cares for a lawn naturally just by peaking inside their shed or garage. Here are a few considerations as you approach the ocean of choices in the marketplace:
Essentials
Mowers — More than 30 years ago, my first Briggs & Stratton mower, purchased used for $10, took me to the promised land of many reliable $5 paychecks, hour after hour, day after day. I certainly wasn’t thinking about ozone layers, pollution levels or greenhouse gases, or even the splash of fuel that hit the ground every time I hurriedly refueled my quart-size gas tank. The state of California, which offers rebate programs for homeowners who willingly trade in their gas mowers for electric models, estimates that a 21-inch lawn mower running for one hour causes up to 10 times the pollution of a car running for the same period of time.
These days, we should know better. With the improved quality of electric equipment, gas-powered motors should be a thing of the past. You can purchase electric mowers with cords, or with rechargeable batteries with enough life to mow for two hours or more. You can purchase ride-on mowers, or find conversion kits that allow you to retrofit your gas model to electric.
That leaves only two primary discussions about mowers: 1) whether to go with a unit that bags clippings, mulches them back onto the lawn or discharges clipping out the side; Black & Decker actually makes that decision easy by producing an adaptable electric combination unit that combines all three options; 2) whether to go reel or rotary with your blades; a reel mower cuts with multiple blades that spin vertically on an axis to cut grass with a scissor action and rotary mowers cut with a single blade spinning in a horizontal circle at a high rate of speed. Warm-season grasses that can be mowed low are ideal for reel blades that give a cleaner, healthier cut for the grass plant; with all other grasses, a rotary blade is more practical. Once the grass gets above two inches tall, most reel blade mowers don’t do a good job.
Power String Trimmers — The same argument about gas mowers goes double for trimmers. Because the gas in trimmers is often mixed with two-cycle oil, the air pollution is even worse in trimmers. Some manufacturers have improved emission standards with cleaner burning four-stroke engines, but for most average-sized lawns, electric is still the way to go.
Electric trimmers, like mowers, come in corded models and cordless versions with rechargeable batteries. If you’re careful and pay attention to the cord, then a corded model is still the most practical for a lawn of any size. I tried a cordless trimmer that only offered a half-hour of battery time on a full charge. Depending on the size of your yard, that may not be enough.
Eye & Ear Protection — It amazes me how many people I see power trimming lawns, also known as “weed whacking,” without eye or ear protection. These tools, even electric models, are loud and dangerous. Purchase yourself a comfortable pair of quality ear muffs and shatterproof goggles. Cheap sunglasses don’t cut it.
Even though mowers may not present the same eye danger, they can be especially damaging to hearing. The National Institute on Deafness and Other Communication Disorders Sounds said sounds louder than 85 decibels — on a scale from 0 to 140 — can cause temporary or permanent hearing loss. A gas mower averages about 90 decibels; a gas trimmer puts out about 110 decibels and an electric model comes in right on the border at about 80 to 85.
Gas can — If you go electric with your equipment, you may not need a gas can in your Eco-Shed. But since you may need to rent an occasional dethatcher, aerator or power edger — or you just won’t give up your gas mowers and trimmers — keep in mind that all gas cans are not created equally.
California, which began regulating gas cans in 2001, estimated that portable gas cans account for about 87 tons per day of smog-forming pollution in that state alone, which is equal to emissions from about one million automobiles. The newer “no-spill” cans reduce fumes and spills and therefore pollution. One of the best on the market comes from my old reliable, Briggs & Stratton, who makes a “Smart Fuel Can” with an automatic shutoff and dedicated screw-on spout assembly.
Watering utensils — Check out Chapter 7 for a full discussion of hoses, nozzles, sprinklers and timers. With water becoming more and more of a precious resource, it’s important that every drop goes where you intend, and not off into the driveway, drainpipe or downhill to the neighbor’s yard.
Wheelbarrows — Every home needs at least one and you should consider its primary use before making a purchase. The earth’s most efficient simple machine, combining levers and wheels, the wheelbarrow can move soil and compost, collect grass clippings and weeds, or tote tools back and forth to the shed. If you can afford it, spend a lot of money once to make a lifetime investment, rather than a little money every year or two when the wheelbarrow breaks.
The most versatile model on the market these days is a version known as a “Load Dumper,” which can move up to 500 pounds with remarkable ease. The engineers positioned the double wheels and handle so the user pushes down on the wheelbarrow rather than lifts, thereby saving lower back strain. Dumping is also made remarkably easy through a quick-release hook on the wheelbarrow’s axel.
In general, the double-wheel models will provide more stability for heavier loads, but these do sacrifice some maneuverability. The new lightweight, but heavyduty resin bins make it far easier to move top soil; heavy metal bins are really no longer necessary.
Rakes — These are like wheelbarrows; you might not think anything new would be happening in design and function after all these years. Then, in 2004, the nation’s oldest tool manufacturer, Ames, patented a lawn rake with interconnected wide tines shaped like a series of Ws. The result is a sturdy tool that won’t clog up with leaves, which can be a big nuisance depending on the species of tree leaves you’re raking.
Every lawn keeper’s shed needs at least three kinds of rakes: 1) the aforementioned leaf rake; the only drawback of the new “clog-free” rake is the width, at only 24 inches. I prefer the 30-inch models, with a cushioned handle to make it easier on the hands. I also reinforce the plastic tines with duct tape near the tip of the rake’s fingers to give them extra strength, especially on cold days when the plastic can be brittle; 2) a metal rake for moving soil, compost and gravel; the new fiberglass handles are lighter and last longer than wood; 3) a bamboo rake for dethatching the lawn; nothing has improved on the performance of bamboo for those times when you really need to dig down and scratch the soil surface to remove thatch, or prepare the lawn for overseeding.
Shovels & Spades — You’ll need, at a minimum, two digging tools in your shed. The classic long-handled, round-point shovel is the workhorse for creating holes, filling wheelbarrows and moving soil, compost, gravel and just about anything. Shorter folks might have, instead, a short-handled version of this tool and others might also keep a square-pointed or scoop shovel for moving compost or soil more quickly.
Square-pointed shovels should not be confused with flat-blade spades, which are used for edging or cutting through turf. These also come in long or short handles and should be selected on the basis of length, weight and durability. Models that have “uni-body” construction — meaning they’re forged from a single piece of metal — are generally of superior quality. Some of the new fiberglass handles will reduce the tool’s overall weight, which will save your arms after a few holes.
Be sure to keep you shovels and spades sharp and well oiled. This will extend the life of the tool and also make the work easier for you.
Weeding Tools — As mentioned in the chapter on weeds, if I could only pick one tool to pry dandelions and just about any other herbaceous weeds out of the ground, it would be a dandelion weeder, also known a fishtail weeder. These are long-necked tools with two points that fan out at the end for digging, teasing and prying roots out of the soil.
I also own a Cape Cod weeder, which was developed in my home state of Maine. Basically a long piece of metal that curves to the right or left, it is useful for weeding in tight spaces. A crack or pavement weeder works well for clean up walkways and patios, or around fence posts.
Every shed also needs a good, basic trowel. This is another tool you should buy once and buy well. A $2 plastic trowel won’t stand the test of time. Be sure you hold the trowel the right way, with the curve of the trowel facing toward you as you work. Too many gardeners hold the trowel the wrong way and wind up with sore or injured wrists.
Hoes — Most of these are designed for use in the vegetable garden, but three also come in handy around the lawn: 1) a Dutch scuffle hoe has a wide, flat cutting edge that slices weeds off at the surface; 2) a stirrup or “action” hoe looks like a stirrup at the base of a horse’s saddle and is used to cut weeds off at the surface, or dig more deeply as a cultivator; its primary benefit is that it cuts in either direction; 3) a grub hoe or “grape” hoe is actually a swinging tool, much like a pick ax, that is useful for digging deeply into heavy soils when a pointed shovel just isn’t doing the job.
Like shovels, hoes should be help clean, sharp and oiled to maintain their full usefulness. I’ve taken to purchasing models with fiberglass handles due to the longevity and lighter weight.
Forks — You can live without a spading fork if you have a shovel, and not the other way around, but I’d still recommend one and maybe two forks for your shed. Buy one with heavy steel tines for breaking up clods, unearthing roots, turning the soil and working in soil amendments. Forks work more efficiently than shovels for all these tasks, especially in heavy clay soils.
If spreading compost will be part of your annual maintenance program — and it should be — you should also consider purchasing a manure fork or compost fork, which has thinner fingers placed closer together. The light weight makes this tool ideal for shoveling compost into wheelbarrows, or top-dressing lawns. It will also come in useful for turning or aerating a compost pile.
Broadcast spreader — Since overseeding with new grass seed is a primary component of a natural lawn care program, it will be useful to keep one of these in your shed. This spreader can also be used to apply fertilizers and other soil amendments, and even to drop sand or melting agents in the winter.
These are preferable to “drop” spreaders, in general, because they work faster and are less prone to product overlap and “striping” of lawns. Since broadcast spreaders work with a spinning mechanism that sends the material several feet in all directions, however, users need to be careful that any products don’t wind up where you might not want them. This is less of a concern in natural lawn care; in my days as a traditional landscaper, I was always worried about getting herbicides on perennials or vegetables.
Compost bin — This probably won’t ever be in the shed or garage, but it’s worth mentioning as a necessary tool anyway. While it’s virtually impossible to create enough compost around your own home to top-dress your entire lawn once or twice a year — unless you’re a dedicated composter who collects leaves and clippings from other people’s properties — you should still contribute to your own lawn and garden and the environment as a whole by composting.
Here’s a quick review of the four primary compost methods: 1) lazy man’s pile, which is simply a heap in the corner of your property where you dump everything; the most well-rotted material is generally found on the bottom of the pile after a year or two; 2) open air bins, which age the composting materials throughout a period of months. I use four hardwood pallets nailed together in a square, but chicken wire cages also work well; 3) an enclosed tumbler or barrel, which can be frequently turned. These are ideal in areas where appearance and smell may be an issue and they’ll generally produce compost quickly; 4) an indoor “vermicomposter,” which utilizes special red worms to devour kitchen scraps and other biodegradable garbage.
Tarps — Your shed should have two primary blanket-type tools. One should be lightweight — those ubiquitous blue or green “poly” tarps are most common — for collecting fall leaves or as a general catch-all if you’re transplanting a tree, moving sod and repairing the lawn. Taking the time to put down a tarp in the beginning will save you all kinds of time on cleanup on the other end.
The second tarp should be made of flexible rubber, either a roofing underlayment product or a section of pond liner. You’ll invariably use this from time to time to kill weeds or grass in a large area by baking or “solarizing” the plants underneath the rubber. Since it’s heavier and traps the soil and plant gasses, in addition to the sun’s heat, the rubber works far better than plastic.
Other essentials — Without going too crazy (I know I could spend a fortune in the hardware section), you’ll also want to have some version of these tools somewhere in your shed: 1) hand trimmers for clipping back a few weeds or tall grass without firing up the string trimmer; 2) a long tape measure, probably a minimum of a 100-footer that comes on a reel, for measuring the area of your lawn or the spread of your lawn sprinkler; 3) a file for your mower blade known as a “bastard” file, since your mower blade(s) should be sharpened after every eight to 12 hours of use; 4) a bench vice or at least vice-grip pliers to hold the blade in place while it’s being sharpened.
Paul Tukey, January 10, 2006.
I’ve actually been very busy at my computer. The rough draft of my book on natural lawn care is due at the publisher on Feb. 1, so I’ve put in a few late nights.
In lieu of a Tip of the Week this time around, I’m going to share a short sidebar that I’m working on for the book. I’d like your feedback, and to hear if you have any other ideas for essential tools for homeowners who care for their own lawns.
Here goes . . .
For most Americans, lawn care is the number one home maintenance activity. It’s our connection to the neighborhood, the outdoors and our personal stamp on the environment. As we’ve seen already in the book, the decision to care for one’s own lawn cannot be taken lightly. For beginners, however, the weight of that choice may first be felt at the hardware store before the first blade of grass is ever cut.
Fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides aside, it’s often easy to tell if someone cares for a lawn naturally just by peaking inside their shed or garage. Here are a few considerations as you approach the ocean of choices in the marketplace:
Essentials
Mowers — More than 30 years ago, my first Briggs & Stratton mower, purchased used for $10, took me to the promised land of many reliable $5 paychecks, hour after hour, day after day. I certainly wasn’t thinking about ozone layers, pollution levels or greenhouse gases, or even the splash of fuel that hit the ground every time I hurriedly refueled my quart-size gas tank. The state of California, which offers rebate programs for homeowners who willingly trade in their gas mowers for electric models, estimates that a 21-inch lawn mower running for one hour causes up to 10 times the pollution of a car running for the same period of time.
These days, we should know better. With the improved quality of electric equipment, gas-powered motors should be a thing of the past. You can purchase electric mowers with cords, or with rechargeable batteries with enough life to mow for two hours or more. You can purchase ride-on mowers, or find conversion kits that allow you to retrofit your gas model to electric.
That leaves only two primary discussions about mowers: 1) whether to go with a unit that bags clippings, mulches them back onto the lawn or discharges clipping out the side; Black & Decker actually makes that decision easy by producing an adaptable electric combination unit that combines all three options; 2) whether to go reel or rotary with your blades; a reel mower cuts with multiple blades that spin vertically on an axis to cut grass with a scissor action and rotary mowers cut with a single blade spinning in a horizontal circle at a high rate of speed. Warm-season grasses that can be mowed low are ideal for reel blades that give a cleaner, healthier cut for the grass plant; with all other grasses, a rotary blade is more practical. Once the grass gets above two inches tall, most reel blade mowers don’t do a good job.
Power String Trimmers — The same argument about gas mowers goes double for trimmers. Because the gas in trimmers is often mixed with two-cycle oil, the air pollution is even worse in trimmers. Some manufacturers have improved emission standards with cleaner burning four-stroke engines, but for most average-sized lawns, electric is still the way to go.
Electric trimmers, like mowers, come in corded models and cordless versions with rechargeable batteries. If you’re careful and pay attention to the cord, then a corded model is still the most practical for a lawn of any size. I tried a cordless trimmer that only offered a half-hour of battery time on a full charge. Depending on the size of your yard, that may not be enough.
Eye & Ear Protection — It amazes me how many people I see power trimming lawns, also known as “weed whacking,” without eye or ear protection. These tools, even electric models, are loud and dangerous. Purchase yourself a comfortable pair of quality ear muffs and shatterproof goggles. Cheap sunglasses don’t cut it.
Even though mowers may not present the same eye danger, they can be especially damaging to hearing. The National Institute on Deafness and Other Communication Disorders Sounds said sounds louder than 85 decibels — on a scale from 0 to 140 — can cause temporary or permanent hearing loss. A gas mower averages about 90 decibels; a gas trimmer puts out about 110 decibels and an electric model comes in right on the border at about 80 to 85.
Gas can — If you go electric with your equipment, you may not need a gas can in your Eco-Shed. But since you may need to rent an occasional dethatcher, aerator or power edger — or you just won’t give up your gas mowers and trimmers — keep in mind that all gas cans are not created equally.
California, which began regulating gas cans in 2001, estimated that portable gas cans account for about 87 tons per day of smog-forming pollution in that state alone, which is equal to emissions from about one million automobiles. The newer “no-spill” cans reduce fumes and spills and therefore pollution. One of the best on the market comes from my old reliable, Briggs & Stratton, who makes a “Smart Fuel Can” with an automatic shutoff and dedicated screw-on spout assembly.
Watering utensils — Check out Chapter 7 for a full discussion of hoses, nozzles, sprinklers and timers. With water becoming more and more of a precious resource, it’s important that every drop goes where you intend, and not off into the driveway, drainpipe or downhill to the neighbor’s yard.
Wheelbarrows — Every home needs at least one and you should consider its primary use before making a purchase. The earth’s most efficient simple machine, combining levers and wheels, the wheelbarrow can move soil and compost, collect grass clippings and weeds, or tote tools back and forth to the shed. If you can afford it, spend a lot of money once to make a lifetime investment, rather than a little money every year or two when the wheelbarrow breaks.
The most versatile model on the market these days is a version known as a “Load Dumper,” which can move up to 500 pounds with remarkable ease. The engineers positioned the double wheels and handle so the user pushes down on the wheelbarrow rather than lifts, thereby saving lower back strain. Dumping is also made remarkably easy through a quick-release hook on the wheelbarrow’s axel.
In general, the double-wheel models will provide more stability for heavier loads, but these do sacrifice some maneuverability. The new lightweight, but heavyduty resin bins make it far easier to move top soil; heavy metal bins are really no longer necessary.
Rakes — These are like wheelbarrows; you might not think anything new would be happening in design and function after all these years. Then, in 2004, the nation’s oldest tool manufacturer, Ames, patented a lawn rake with interconnected wide tines shaped like a series of Ws. The result is a sturdy tool that won’t clog up with leaves, which can be a big nuisance depending on the species of tree leaves you’re raking.
Every lawn keeper’s shed needs at least three kinds of rakes: 1) the aforementioned leaf rake; the only drawback of the new “clog-free” rake is the width, at only 24 inches. I prefer the 30-inch models, with a cushioned handle to make it easier on the hands. I also reinforce the plastic tines with duct tape near the tip of the rake’s fingers to give them extra strength, especially on cold days when the plastic can be brittle; 2) a metal rake for moving soil, compost and gravel; the new fiberglass handles are lighter and last longer than wood; 3) a bamboo rake for dethatching the lawn; nothing has improved on the performance of bamboo for those times when you really need to dig down and scratch the soil surface to remove thatch, or prepare the lawn for overseeding.
Shovels & Spades — You’ll need, at a minimum, two digging tools in your shed. The classic long-handled, round-point shovel is the workhorse for creating holes, filling wheelbarrows and moving soil, compost, gravel and just about anything. Shorter folks might have, instead, a short-handled version of this tool and others might also keep a square-pointed or scoop shovel for moving compost or soil more quickly.
Square-pointed shovels should not be confused with flat-blade spades, which are used for edging or cutting through turf. These also come in long or short handles and should be selected on the basis of length, weight and durability. Models that have “uni-body” construction — meaning they’re forged from a single piece of metal — are generally of superior quality. Some of the new fiberglass handles will reduce the tool’s overall weight, which will save your arms after a few holes.
Be sure to keep you shovels and spades sharp and well oiled. This will extend the life of the tool and also make the work easier for you.
Weeding Tools — As mentioned in the chapter on weeds, if I could only pick one tool to pry dandelions and just about any other herbaceous weeds out of the ground, it would be a dandelion weeder, also known a fishtail weeder. These are long-necked tools with two points that fan out at the end for digging, teasing and prying roots out of the soil.
I also own a Cape Cod weeder, which was developed in my home state of Maine. Basically a long piece of metal that curves to the right or left, it is useful for weeding in tight spaces. A crack or pavement weeder works well for clean up walkways and patios, or around fence posts.
Every shed also needs a good, basic trowel. This is another tool you should buy once and buy well. A $2 plastic trowel won’t stand the test of time. Be sure you hold the trowel the right way, with the curve of the trowel facing toward you as you work. Too many gardeners hold the trowel the wrong way and wind up with sore or injured wrists.
Hoes — Most of these are designed for use in the vegetable garden, but three also come in handy around the lawn: 1) a Dutch scuffle hoe has a wide, flat cutting edge that slices weeds off at the surface; 2) a stirrup or “action” hoe looks like a stirrup at the base of a horse’s saddle and is used to cut weeds off at the surface, or dig more deeply as a cultivator; its primary benefit is that it cuts in either direction; 3) a grub hoe or “grape” hoe is actually a swinging tool, much like a pick ax, that is useful for digging deeply into heavy soils when a pointed shovel just isn’t doing the job.
Like shovels, hoes should be help clean, sharp and oiled to maintain their full usefulness. I’ve taken to purchasing models with fiberglass handles due to the longevity and lighter weight.
Forks — You can live without a spading fork if you have a shovel, and not the other way around, but I’d still recommend one and maybe two forks for your shed. Buy one with heavy steel tines for breaking up clods, unearthing roots, turning the soil and working in soil amendments. Forks work more efficiently than shovels for all these tasks, especially in heavy clay soils.
If spreading compost will be part of your annual maintenance program — and it should be — you should also consider purchasing a manure fork or compost fork, which has thinner fingers placed closer together. The light weight makes this tool ideal for shoveling compost into wheelbarrows, or top-dressing lawns. It will also come in useful for turning or aerating a compost pile.
Broadcast spreader — Since overseeding with new grass seed is a primary component of a natural lawn care program, it will be useful to keep one of these in your shed. This spreader can also be used to apply fertilizers and other soil amendments, and even to drop sand or melting agents in the winter.
These are preferable to “drop” spreaders, in general, because they work faster and are less prone to product overlap and “striping” of lawns. Since broadcast spreaders work with a spinning mechanism that sends the material several feet in all directions, however, users need to be careful that any products don’t wind up where you might not want them. This is less of a concern in natural lawn care; in my days as a traditional landscaper, I was always worried about getting herbicides on perennials or vegetables.
Compost bin — This probably won’t ever be in the shed or garage, but it’s worth mentioning as a necessary tool anyway. While it’s virtually impossible to create enough compost around your own home to top-dress your entire lawn once or twice a year — unless you’re a dedicated composter who collects leaves and clippings from other people’s properties — you should still contribute to your own lawn and garden and the environment as a whole by composting.
Here’s a quick review of the four primary compost methods: 1) lazy man’s pile, which is simply a heap in the corner of your property where you dump everything; the most well-rotted material is generally found on the bottom of the pile after a year or two; 2) open air bins, which age the composting materials throughout a period of months. I use four hardwood pallets nailed together in a square, but chicken wire cages also work well; 3) an enclosed tumbler or barrel, which can be frequently turned. These are ideal in areas where appearance and smell may be an issue and they’ll generally produce compost quickly; 4) an indoor “vermicomposter,” which utilizes special red worms to devour kitchen scraps and other biodegradable garbage.
Tarps — Your shed should have two primary blanket-type tools. One should be lightweight — those ubiquitous blue or green “poly” tarps are most common — for collecting fall leaves or as a general catch-all if you’re transplanting a tree, moving sod and repairing the lawn. Taking the time to put down a tarp in the beginning will save you all kinds of time on cleanup on the other end.
The second tarp should be made of flexible rubber, either a roofing underlayment product or a section of pond liner. You’ll invariably use this from time to time to kill weeds or grass in a large area by baking or “solarizing” the plants underneath the rubber. Since it’s heavier and traps the soil and plant gasses, in addition to the sun’s heat, the rubber works far better than plastic.
Other essentials — Without going too crazy (I know I could spend a fortune in the hardware section), you’ll also want to have some version of these tools somewhere in your shed: 1) hand trimmers for clipping back a few weeds or tall grass without firing up the string trimmer; 2) a long tape measure, probably a minimum of a 100-footer that comes on a reel, for measuring the area of your lawn or the spread of your lawn sprinkler; 3) a file for your mower blade known as a “bastard” file, since your mower blade(s) should be sharpened after every eight to 12 hours of use; 4) a bench vice or at least vice-grip pliers to hold the blade in place while it’s being sharpened.
Paul Tukey, January 10, 2006.
Tuesday, December 20, 2005
Garden Supplies: You Can't Go Wrong with These Companies
Last week I profiled seed catalogue enterprises. Since they were all from my home state of Maine, I was speaking from the experience of knowing the companies intimately.
When you venture out into the much larger world of garden supply catalogues, the universe grows exponentially. Gardeners, among the most conservative and least Internet savvy shoppers, often seem to be weary of plunking down their cash to faceless, nameless vendors.
While it’s true you can find just about anything you need at your local garden center, your gardening satisfaction can be increased by being just a bit adventurous in your buying habits. Garden supply catalogues are full of products, tools and information that you may not find anywhere else. Often, I find, the cutting-edge stuff is slow to make it to the Northeast corridor.
For a comprehensive list of companies who sell by mail, visit www.mailordergardening.com. The Mailorder Gardening Association does a good job of screening its members, who come from all walks of horticulture — from magazines, to seeds and flowers, to tools, supplies and more. The MGA really is a tremendous resource.
For the profile this week, I’m going to narrow my choices to three companies. I’ve met the owners of all three and know from first-hand experience that their heart is in the right place when it comes time to sell us something.
1. Gardens Alive 2. Gardeners Supply
3. Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
Gardens Alive — Like all three of these businesses on my list, Gardens Alive is a classic shoot-from-the-hip-and-heart story of a gardener with a passion. Company founder and president Niles Kinerk visited Maine this summer and talked at length about his modest childhood on his family’s farm in Yoder, Indiana. Like many unsuspecting farmers of the day, they welcomed the “advances” in agriculture that were offered by synthetic chemicals.
“I remember we felt sorry for our neighbors who didn’t have access to the chemicals,” said Kinerk. “Boy, did that feeling change.”
Enlightened by Organic Gardening magazine, when that magazine was still in its heyday, Kinerk said he soon saw the light.
“I wasn’t far into its pages when the light bulbs started going off in my mind,” he writes on the www.GardensAlive.com web site. “I began to wish that someone would take on the job of making tested, organic products available to gardeners like me. It was a fairly short jump from wishing someone else would do the job to tackling it myself.”
What started as the Natural Gardening Research Center in 1984 evolved into Gardens Alive by 1988. Whether your call yourself an organic gardener, or are just curious about products that are not based on synthetic chemicals, the catalogue is flat-out exciting.
During my day with the company founder, he confided that selling organic products has not been a get-rich-quick scheme — just like organic gardening is not a dial-by-number approach to horticulture. It has taken time for customers to understand the difference; it’s amazing how many people don’t really care about the environment, or how many people never take the time to consider the effects of their actions.
“Gardens Alive is still a labor of love,” he said. “I have more profitable ventures, but this is the one that continues to fuel my passion.”
Check out this catalogue; environmentally friendly solutions are available for all sorts of gardening challenges.
Gardeners Supply — Just about the same time Niles Kinerk was getting curious about organic gardening in the Midwest, Will Raap was beginning to operate on a parallel plain in Vermont. Whereas the Gardens Alive founder appears to be the consummate conservative farmer, Raap has always worn his passion on his sleeve. He’s the general, if you will, who has led the up-hill charge in the organic revolution.
“He’s the most charismatic person I’ve ever been around,” said Kathy Laliberte, who co-founded the Gardeners Supply Company with Raap in 1983. “He really wanted to make a difference and those of us who were around him got swept up in his enthusiasm.”
Far more than a garden supply company, Gardeners Supply has become a success story of national and international prominence. By putting organic gardening practices to work in their local community of Burlington, Vt., the employee-owned company has revitalized an entire city and served as a model for sustainable living.
I traveled to Burlington this past summer with Cameron Bonsey, the director of our television division, and was amazed at the vitality of the organic trial gardens outside the company headquarters. That was Zone 3-4, mind you, and the gardens still looked phenomenal. They still experiment with all sorts of new gadgets, including self-watering containers for growing tomatoes. They were getting up to 30 pounds of fruit from one plant!
As for the catalogue, it’s probably the most extensive offering of gardening supplies anywhere in the free world. Though the company started from the most modest of positions, it has evolved into a high-tech supplier of a full-range of products, from bird feeders, to kitchen items, linens and furniture. Just about everything is available on-line at www.gardeners.com.
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply — Another company I can relate to — because it started in the garage of the founder — this California business was first recommended to me a decade ago by Eliot Coleman, the legendary organic farmer from Harborside, Maine.
“They’re honest,” he said simply. That’s always question number one in mailorder.
Located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the town of Grass Valley, this company is another one of those places where many of the employees are gardeners. You can check out their faces online at www.groworganic.com and then talk to them by phone moments later.
I’m sure the cynics will ask what a company in California can do for gardeners in the Northeast. In a word: plenty. The offerings of organic fertilizers and soil stimulants are fantastic, and these folks have been using these products long enough to really know what they’re talking about.
You may remember from high school biology, for example, that plants need 16 elements to grow. Most fertilizer bags and companies will talk about the big three “macronutrients” of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but not say much about all the others. Peaceful Valley Farm Supply has an entire section on “trace minerals” — things like zinc, boron and azomite — that are essential to plant health.
Trust me. It’s worth a few minutes to click on the site.
One last note: You can still get the great subscription deal by calling 800-251-1784, or clicking on our website at www.ppplants.com. For $19.95 ($5 off regular prices), you get six issues of the magazine, a $25 coupon to www.gardensalive.com and the PPP Discount Card good for 10 percent off purchases at more than 500 garden centers across the Northeast.
Happy Holidays and we’ll see you with a new column after the first of the year.
Paul Tukey, December 20, 2005.
When you venture out into the much larger world of garden supply catalogues, the universe grows exponentially. Gardeners, among the most conservative and least Internet savvy shoppers, often seem to be weary of plunking down their cash to faceless, nameless vendors.
While it’s true you can find just about anything you need at your local garden center, your gardening satisfaction can be increased by being just a bit adventurous in your buying habits. Garden supply catalogues are full of products, tools and information that you may not find anywhere else. Often, I find, the cutting-edge stuff is slow to make it to the Northeast corridor.
For a comprehensive list of companies who sell by mail, visit www.mailordergardening.com. The Mailorder Gardening Association does a good job of screening its members, who come from all walks of horticulture — from magazines, to seeds and flowers, to tools, supplies and more. The MGA really is a tremendous resource.
For the profile this week, I’m going to narrow my choices to three companies. I’ve met the owners of all three and know from first-hand experience that their heart is in the right place when it comes time to sell us something.
1. Gardens Alive 2. Gardeners Supply
3. Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
Gardens Alive — Like all three of these businesses on my list, Gardens Alive is a classic shoot-from-the-hip-and-heart story of a gardener with a passion. Company founder and president Niles Kinerk visited Maine this summer and talked at length about his modest childhood on his family’s farm in Yoder, Indiana. Like many unsuspecting farmers of the day, they welcomed the “advances” in agriculture that were offered by synthetic chemicals.
“I remember we felt sorry for our neighbors who didn’t have access to the chemicals,” said Kinerk. “Boy, did that feeling change.”
Enlightened by Organic Gardening magazine, when that magazine was still in its heyday, Kinerk said he soon saw the light.
“I wasn’t far into its pages when the light bulbs started going off in my mind,” he writes on the www.GardensAlive.com web site. “I began to wish that someone would take on the job of making tested, organic products available to gardeners like me. It was a fairly short jump from wishing someone else would do the job to tackling it myself.”
What started as the Natural Gardening Research Center in 1984 evolved into Gardens Alive by 1988. Whether your call yourself an organic gardener, or are just curious about products that are not based on synthetic chemicals, the catalogue is flat-out exciting.
During my day with the company founder, he confided that selling organic products has not been a get-rich-quick scheme — just like organic gardening is not a dial-by-number approach to horticulture. It has taken time for customers to understand the difference; it’s amazing how many people don’t really care about the environment, or how many people never take the time to consider the effects of their actions.
“Gardens Alive is still a labor of love,” he said. “I have more profitable ventures, but this is the one that continues to fuel my passion.”
Check out this catalogue; environmentally friendly solutions are available for all sorts of gardening challenges.
Gardeners Supply — Just about the same time Niles Kinerk was getting curious about organic gardening in the Midwest, Will Raap was beginning to operate on a parallel plain in Vermont. Whereas the Gardens Alive founder appears to be the consummate conservative farmer, Raap has always worn his passion on his sleeve. He’s the general, if you will, who has led the up-hill charge in the organic revolution.
“He’s the most charismatic person I’ve ever been around,” said Kathy Laliberte, who co-founded the Gardeners Supply Company with Raap in 1983. “He really wanted to make a difference and those of us who were around him got swept up in his enthusiasm.”
Far more than a garden supply company, Gardeners Supply has become a success story of national and international prominence. By putting organic gardening practices to work in their local community of Burlington, Vt., the employee-owned company has revitalized an entire city and served as a model for sustainable living.
I traveled to Burlington this past summer with Cameron Bonsey, the director of our television division, and was amazed at the vitality of the organic trial gardens outside the company headquarters. That was Zone 3-4, mind you, and the gardens still looked phenomenal. They still experiment with all sorts of new gadgets, including self-watering containers for growing tomatoes. They were getting up to 30 pounds of fruit from one plant!
As for the catalogue, it’s probably the most extensive offering of gardening supplies anywhere in the free world. Though the company started from the most modest of positions, it has evolved into a high-tech supplier of a full-range of products, from bird feeders, to kitchen items, linens and furniture. Just about everything is available on-line at www.gardeners.com.
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply — Another company I can relate to — because it started in the garage of the founder — this California business was first recommended to me a decade ago by Eliot Coleman, the legendary organic farmer from Harborside, Maine.
“They’re honest,” he said simply. That’s always question number one in mailorder.
Located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the town of Grass Valley, this company is another one of those places where many of the employees are gardeners. You can check out their faces online at www.groworganic.com and then talk to them by phone moments later.
I’m sure the cynics will ask what a company in California can do for gardeners in the Northeast. In a word: plenty. The offerings of organic fertilizers and soil stimulants are fantastic, and these folks have been using these products long enough to really know what they’re talking about.
You may remember from high school biology, for example, that plants need 16 elements to grow. Most fertilizer bags and companies will talk about the big three “macronutrients” of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but not say much about all the others. Peaceful Valley Farm Supply has an entire section on “trace minerals” — things like zinc, boron and azomite — that are essential to plant health.
Trust me. It’s worth a few minutes to click on the site.
One last note: You can still get the great subscription deal by calling 800-251-1784, or clicking on our website at www.ppplants.com. For $19.95 ($5 off regular prices), you get six issues of the magazine, a $25 coupon to www.gardensalive.com and the PPP Discount Card good for 10 percent off purchases at more than 500 garden centers across the Northeast.
Happy Holidays and we’ll see you with a new column after the first of the year.
Paul Tukey, December 20, 2005.
Monday, December 12, 2005
'Tis the Season...for Seed Catalogues
Here’s a pointer I like to dust off every year about this time, when you have to have a lot of imagination and intestinal fortitude to take on any outdoor gardening tasks. ’Tis the season for . . . seed catalogues, when you can let that imagination run wild.
This year, I’m going to run this as a multi-part series on catalogues of all types, from seeds to live plants. I’m a big proponent of the local garden centers, mind you, and you can usually find more gardening stuff at your favorite local greenhouse than at any time in horticultural history. There’s still a place on my coffee table gardening catalogues, though. They’re one of my favorite things about gardening. And, besides, they’re great for those last-minute gardening gift ideas.
For this edition, we’ll take a look at the seed entities in my own state of Maine where six companies, and at least two non-profit organizations, offer just about anything you could need within the pages of their catalogues. Buy your seeds locally and you’ll get the satisfaction of supporting small local enterprises —with the added benefit of all that great local knowledge that you’ll never find in the national catalogues.
Here’s a rundown, with some of the history and flavor that makes all these catalogues unique:
Allen, Sterling & Lothrop — This company has been around since 1911 and, somehow refreshingly, hasn’t changed much at all in the past 94 years. This year’s catalogue looks like last year’s catalogue, and the one before that, and the one before that.
In this lightning-fast Internet world where change rules, this Falmouth company has carved out a niche by offering mostly the same varieties of seed that our grandparents grew. The packages are still packed by hand in a back room, most of them by octogenarians Mickey and Isabelle Maguire, and their granddaughter Jennifer Brannigan.
The big news here is that AS&L joined the 21st century by securing a web domain in 2005. It’s kind of like having your grandmother driving a Ferrari, but in this day and age I’m sure a lot of grandmothers probably do. For the old-fashioned way of shopping, you can order the 31-page black-and-white catalogue by calling 207-781-4142, or better yet, visit the charming garden center at 191 U.S. Route 1 in Falmouth — but not on Sundays. That’s their family day and still remains sacred.
Fedco— This revolutionary enterprise was founded in 1978 as a cooperative seed distribution network in which the patrons of the company are the owners. Bulk orders are always encouraged; if you get together with your gardening friends and neighbors and place an order through Fedco, you will almost always save money.
Like Allen, Sterling & Lothrop, this seed source eschewed the Internet as a marketing tool for many years. A website, www.fedcoseeds.com , is up and running and offers a nice, online taste of what the company is all about. A catalogue can be downloaded, and the company even posts its phone number at 207-873-3333. For many years, it didn’t even like to take phone calls.
Despite all those upgrades in convenience, the catalogue really must be seen to be fully appreciated. Printed on recycled newsprint, it teems with invaluable local information. You tell easily tell that the authors of the seed descriptions grow the plants themselves, often in Zone 4 central Maine locations that test a gardener’s skill. Organic culture is always stressed and none of the seeds are ever treated with fungicide.
To receive a Fedco catalogue in the mail, write to P.O. Box 520, Waterville, Maine 04903-0520.
Johnny's Selected Seeds — Easily Maine’s largest seed company and recognized as a national industry leader, Johnny’s still manages to reflect its roots as a tiny proprietorship formed in 1973. The founder, Robert L. Johnston Jr., is a research scientist at heart. Through his directive, the company runs the most thorough seed testing process in the country. A trial garden in Albion, measuring 120 acres, allows the staff to evaluate each vegetable, herb, flower and garden product.
The catalogue is also recognized as one of the most valuable in the country. Packed with equal parts information and colorful glossy photographs, it has been redesigned in recent years to be more colorful and user friendly.
Buying from Johnny’s is easier than ever. The company finally accepts orders toll free (800-879-2258) or the Internet www.johnnyseeds.com. Even better, orders are filled whenever possible within 24 hours.
Incidentally, Rob Johnston sent us an awesome exclusive article on the best-tasting varieties of 14 different kinds of vegetables in the upcoming January issue of our magazine. It made my mouth water just reading his first-hand descriptions.
Pinetree Garden Seeds — The size of the average package of seeds has always driven Portland resident Dick Meiners crazy. Why do companies put 100 tomato seeds in a package, he wondered, when the average gardener only grows 12 plants?
In 1979, he did something about his pet peeve by founding his own company. Specializing in small packages at fair prices, New Gloucester-based Pinetree Seeds has carved out a unique niche in the home garden segment of the seed catalogue world. By keeping prices down, Meiners has allowed gardeners to experiment with many new varieties of plants—as well as books and equipment.
The catalogue is a cross between the newsprint, no-photo appeal of Fedco, and the glossy, professional look of Johnny’s. The descriptions, written by the gardeners on the Pinetree staff, are informative and personal. Order by phone (207-926-3400), fax (888-52seeds) or on the Internet www.superseeds.com.
Vesey’s— Based in Prince Edward Island, Vesey's Seeds Ltd., is not a true Maine company. It does, however, offer a Calais address and a product selection that is ideal for the local gardener.
The founder, Arthur Vesey, was a market gardener who struggled to find seeds that would thrive in the short growing season in PEI. In 1939, he published the first catalogue of some of his discoveries; by the ’60s, his company featuring “seeds for short seasons” was a full-blown international enterprise.
Vesey’s makes ordering easy and affordable with a toll-free number (800-363-7333), along with fax orders (800-686-0329) and Internet access www.veseys.com.
The Maine Potato Catalog—Facing an uncertain economic future in trying to grow organic produce in Aroostook County, Jim Gerritson needed a way to diversify his family farm in the past decade. His answer became this unique ode to spuds that has grown to become a 36-page full-color booklet.
The family’s staple offerings are the Potato of The Month Club that will deliver a fresh supply of organic potatoes to your door each month, and the certified organic seed potatoes that you can grow in your own garden. The catalogue also features carrots, onions, garlic, shallots, parsnips and other crops — all grown organically in Bridgewater, five hours north of Portland near Presque Isle. You may order a catalogue seven days a week at 800-829-9765, or click on www.woodprairie.com to get a virtual tour.
Our television crew visited the Gerritson family during harvest season one September and watched in amazement as the year’s crop of potatoes was picked by hand — mostly by junior high school students on farm break. It’s one of the few operations of its kind left in America, and definitely worth supporting.
Medomak Valley Heirloom Seed Project — Teachers Jon Thurston and Neil Lash deserve a world of kudos for introducing their high school students to the world of gardening. The students, in turn, spread the information to the rest of us through their truly unique catalogue offering a host of heirloom seeds.
Even designed by students, the catalogue can be ordered by writing to Heirloom Seed Project, 320 Manktown Road, Waldoboro, Maine 04572. Please include a nine by 12-inch SASE envelope and $1. The students don’t publish seed prices, but do ask for your donations if you order.
Maine Seed Saver Exchange — Dedicated to preserving genetic diversity in backyard gardening, this nonprofit group promotes saving rare heirloom varieties. Within the 24-page catalogue, you'll find everything from ‘Fogg’ melons, originally grown at the Fogg Homestead in Readfield, Maine, to ‘Cambridge’ rutabagas, which the catalogue states were “found and rescued from the steamship ‘Cambridge,’ which sank in the Atlantic Ocean on Feb. 10, 1886, after striking the Old Man's Ledge off of Friendship, Maine.”
Its a valuable endeavor, well worth supporting by joining the Exchange for $15. For the catalogue only, send $2 to cover postage to Box 60, New Gloucester, ME 04260.
Speaking of catalogues . . . How would you like to receive $25 to spend at one of America’s best gardening companies? That’s what you get if you subscribe to People, Places & Plants magazine right now in time for the holidays. Here’s the deal: First off, it’s $5 off ($19.95 instead of $24.95). Second, you’ll receive a $25 gift certificate to a catalogue supplier known as www.gardensalive.com. We’ll also send you the discount card good for 10 percent off at more than 500 local garden centers in the Northeast. On top of ALL that, we’ll send a $5 donation to the American Red Cross for every subscription we sell between now and Christmas. We think it’s a tremendous gift idea. You can sign up online here, or by calling Mike or Deb at 800-251-1784.
Paul Tukey, December 12, 2005.
This year, I’m going to run this as a multi-part series on catalogues of all types, from seeds to live plants. I’m a big proponent of the local garden centers, mind you, and you can usually find more gardening stuff at your favorite local greenhouse than at any time in horticultural history. There’s still a place on my coffee table gardening catalogues, though. They’re one of my favorite things about gardening. And, besides, they’re great for those last-minute gardening gift ideas.
For this edition, we’ll take a look at the seed entities in my own state of Maine where six companies, and at least two non-profit organizations, offer just about anything you could need within the pages of their catalogues. Buy your seeds locally and you’ll get the satisfaction of supporting small local enterprises —with the added benefit of all that great local knowledge that you’ll never find in the national catalogues.
Here’s a rundown, with some of the history and flavor that makes all these catalogues unique:
Allen, Sterling & Lothrop — This company has been around since 1911 and, somehow refreshingly, hasn’t changed much at all in the past 94 years. This year’s catalogue looks like last year’s catalogue, and the one before that, and the one before that.
In this lightning-fast Internet world where change rules, this Falmouth company has carved out a niche by offering mostly the same varieties of seed that our grandparents grew. The packages are still packed by hand in a back room, most of them by octogenarians Mickey and Isabelle Maguire, and their granddaughter Jennifer Brannigan.
The big news here is that AS&L joined the 21st century by securing a web domain in 2005. It’s kind of like having your grandmother driving a Ferrari, but in this day and age I’m sure a lot of grandmothers probably do. For the old-fashioned way of shopping, you can order the 31-page black-and-white catalogue by calling 207-781-4142, or better yet, visit the charming garden center at 191 U.S. Route 1 in Falmouth — but not on Sundays. That’s their family day and still remains sacred.
Fedco— This revolutionary enterprise was founded in 1978 as a cooperative seed distribution network in which the patrons of the company are the owners. Bulk orders are always encouraged; if you get together with your gardening friends and neighbors and place an order through Fedco, you will almost always save money.
Like Allen, Sterling & Lothrop, this seed source eschewed the Internet as a marketing tool for many years. A website, www.fedcoseeds.com , is up and running and offers a nice, online taste of what the company is all about. A catalogue can be downloaded, and the company even posts its phone number at 207-873-3333. For many years, it didn’t even like to take phone calls.
Despite all those upgrades in convenience, the catalogue really must be seen to be fully appreciated. Printed on recycled newsprint, it teems with invaluable local information. You tell easily tell that the authors of the seed descriptions grow the plants themselves, often in Zone 4 central Maine locations that test a gardener’s skill. Organic culture is always stressed and none of the seeds are ever treated with fungicide.
To receive a Fedco catalogue in the mail, write to P.O. Box 520, Waterville, Maine 04903-0520.
Johnny's Selected Seeds — Easily Maine’s largest seed company and recognized as a national industry leader, Johnny’s still manages to reflect its roots as a tiny proprietorship formed in 1973. The founder, Robert L. Johnston Jr., is a research scientist at heart. Through his directive, the company runs the most thorough seed testing process in the country. A trial garden in Albion, measuring 120 acres, allows the staff to evaluate each vegetable, herb, flower and garden product.
The catalogue is also recognized as one of the most valuable in the country. Packed with equal parts information and colorful glossy photographs, it has been redesigned in recent years to be more colorful and user friendly.
Buying from Johnny’s is easier than ever. The company finally accepts orders toll free (800-879-2258) or the Internet www.johnnyseeds.com. Even better, orders are filled whenever possible within 24 hours.
Incidentally, Rob Johnston sent us an awesome exclusive article on the best-tasting varieties of 14 different kinds of vegetables in the upcoming January issue of our magazine. It made my mouth water just reading his first-hand descriptions.
Pinetree Garden Seeds — The size of the average package of seeds has always driven Portland resident Dick Meiners crazy. Why do companies put 100 tomato seeds in a package, he wondered, when the average gardener only grows 12 plants?
In 1979, he did something about his pet peeve by founding his own company. Specializing in small packages at fair prices, New Gloucester-based Pinetree Seeds has carved out a unique niche in the home garden segment of the seed catalogue world. By keeping prices down, Meiners has allowed gardeners to experiment with many new varieties of plants—as well as books and equipment.
The catalogue is a cross between the newsprint, no-photo appeal of Fedco, and the glossy, professional look of Johnny’s. The descriptions, written by the gardeners on the Pinetree staff, are informative and personal. Order by phone (207-926-3400), fax (888-52seeds) or on the Internet www.superseeds.com.
Vesey’s— Based in Prince Edward Island, Vesey's Seeds Ltd., is not a true Maine company. It does, however, offer a Calais address and a product selection that is ideal for the local gardener.
The founder, Arthur Vesey, was a market gardener who struggled to find seeds that would thrive in the short growing season in PEI. In 1939, he published the first catalogue of some of his discoveries; by the ’60s, his company featuring “seeds for short seasons” was a full-blown international enterprise.
Vesey’s makes ordering easy and affordable with a toll-free number (800-363-7333), along with fax orders (800-686-0329) and Internet access www.veseys.com.
The Maine Potato Catalog—Facing an uncertain economic future in trying to grow organic produce in Aroostook County, Jim Gerritson needed a way to diversify his family farm in the past decade. His answer became this unique ode to spuds that has grown to become a 36-page full-color booklet.
The family’s staple offerings are the Potato of The Month Club that will deliver a fresh supply of organic potatoes to your door each month, and the certified organic seed potatoes that you can grow in your own garden. The catalogue also features carrots, onions, garlic, shallots, parsnips and other crops — all grown organically in Bridgewater, five hours north of Portland near Presque Isle. You may order a catalogue seven days a week at 800-829-9765, or click on www.woodprairie.com to get a virtual tour.
Our television crew visited the Gerritson family during harvest season one September and watched in amazement as the year’s crop of potatoes was picked by hand — mostly by junior high school students on farm break. It’s one of the few operations of its kind left in America, and definitely worth supporting.
Medomak Valley Heirloom Seed Project — Teachers Jon Thurston and Neil Lash deserve a world of kudos for introducing their high school students to the world of gardening. The students, in turn, spread the information to the rest of us through their truly unique catalogue offering a host of heirloom seeds.
Even designed by students, the catalogue can be ordered by writing to Heirloom Seed Project, 320 Manktown Road, Waldoboro, Maine 04572. Please include a nine by 12-inch SASE envelope and $1. The students don’t publish seed prices, but do ask for your donations if you order.
Maine Seed Saver Exchange — Dedicated to preserving genetic diversity in backyard gardening, this nonprofit group promotes saving rare heirloom varieties. Within the 24-page catalogue, you'll find everything from ‘Fogg’ melons, originally grown at the Fogg Homestead in Readfield, Maine, to ‘Cambridge’ rutabagas, which the catalogue states were “found and rescued from the steamship ‘Cambridge,’ which sank in the Atlantic Ocean on Feb. 10, 1886, after striking the Old Man's Ledge off of Friendship, Maine.”
Its a valuable endeavor, well worth supporting by joining the Exchange for $15. For the catalogue only, send $2 to cover postage to Box 60, New Gloucester, ME 04260.
Speaking of catalogues . . . How would you like to receive $25 to spend at one of America’s best gardening companies? That’s what you get if you subscribe to People, Places & Plants magazine right now in time for the holidays. Here’s the deal: First off, it’s $5 off ($19.95 instead of $24.95). Second, you’ll receive a $25 gift certificate to a catalogue supplier known as www.gardensalive.com. We’ll also send you the discount card good for 10 percent off at more than 500 local garden centers in the Northeast. On top of ALL that, we’ll send a $5 donation to the American Red Cross for every subscription we sell between now and Christmas. We think it’s a tremendous gift idea. You can sign up online here, or by calling Mike or Deb at 800-251-1784.
Paul Tukey, December 12, 2005.
Monday, December 05, 2005
Use Discretion in Creating Plant Decorations
One of the best, and most abused, ways for a gardener to enjoy the holidays is to use plants as part of the celebration. Cut trees are often the centerpiece, along with the indoor plants, including poinsettias and holiday cactus we have written about here in recent weeks. They’re all great and serve their purpose.
Wreaths and swags containing parts of plants are also part of many families’ holiday traditions. Utilizing foliage, berries, twigs, cones, seeds and seedpods and bark, craft-minded gardeners can create some beautiful decorations.
In general, these are perfectly fine ways to use plants. As folks head out to gather materials, though, I’d like to make a few points:
1) though pruning evergreens won’t hurt the plants, you should prune correctly;
2) always ask permission to prune plants not on your own property;
3) avoid using invasive species of plants as part of your decorations, or at least dispose of them properly if you do;
4) treat nature kindly while you’re searching;
5) review the list of poisonous plants, especially if you have children or pets in and around the home.
PRUNING — Needled evergreens are among the most resilient of plants and will generally tolerate even the most callous of sheering. It’s far better for your plants, though, if you take care to prune properly with a sharp knife or other tool. Try to prune at nodes, which are points on the stems when budding or branching occurs.
Broad-leafed evergreens such as mountain laurel or rhododendron are a bit less tolerant. Keep in mind, too, that if you snip those plants this time of year, you may be removing next spring’s blossoms. It’s your plant; you’ll have to decide if it’s worth it.
PERMISSION — Taking plants, or parts of plants off other people’s property technically constitutes trespassing and, probably, theft. I have a friend at a local police department who said his station always gets a few calls about missing trees or branches during the holidays. Most people will probably allow you to collect a few evergreen tips if you ask politely and show them you know what you’re doing.
INVASIVES — One of my pet peeves is other magazines who promote wreaths made with Asiatic bittersweet. While beautiful because of its bright reddish-orange berries, bittersweet is a nasty invasive. If these seeds drop off your wreath, they can later germinate and contribute to the spread of this plant. Click here for a list of other invasive plants.
If you insist on using invasive plants, try to burn your wreaths after the holidays, or add them to garbage that’s going to an incinerator rather than a landfill.
NATURE — As I’ve learned on numerous hikes with Dr. Richard Churchill, our staff botanist, nature can be more tender than we may think. Trampling moss, peeling bark off trees or stealing birds nests from trees is just bad form. Don’t do it. You can usually find plenty of other materials for decorations.
POISONS — Though not high on the list of holiday perils, plant poisonings do show up in the news from time to time. The berries of holly, mistletoe and yew all contain compounds with varying degrees of toxicity. If you suspect a plant poisoning, call the American Association of Poison Control Centers’ national emergency hotline at 800-222-1222. You will be immediately connected to a poison center in your local area. For one of the best databases of poisonous plants, check out Cornell University’s web site.
With only a few weeks remaining until Christmas and Hanukkah, which begins on Christmas day this year, we hope you’ll consider taking advantage of our awesome holiday subscription offer. Through a special advertising promotion, we are able to offer all subscribers and gift recipients a $25 coupon toward any merchandise at Gardens Alive, one of the nation’s leading garden catalogue companies. We’re also cut the price for a one-year subscription by $5, to $19.95, and we’re donating an additional $5 to the American Red Cross hurricane relief effort. You can click here https://www.ppplants.com/order/holiday.html to take advantage.
Paul Tukey, December 5, 2005.
Wreaths and swags containing parts of plants are also part of many families’ holiday traditions. Utilizing foliage, berries, twigs, cones, seeds and seedpods and bark, craft-minded gardeners can create some beautiful decorations.
In general, these are perfectly fine ways to use plants. As folks head out to gather materials, though, I’d like to make a few points:
1) though pruning evergreens won’t hurt the plants, you should prune correctly;
2) always ask permission to prune plants not on your own property;
3) avoid using invasive species of plants as part of your decorations, or at least dispose of them properly if you do;
4) treat nature kindly while you’re searching;
5) review the list of poisonous plants, especially if you have children or pets in and around the home.
PRUNING — Needled evergreens are among the most resilient of plants and will generally tolerate even the most callous of sheering. It’s far better for your plants, though, if you take care to prune properly with a sharp knife or other tool. Try to prune at nodes, which are points on the stems when budding or branching occurs.
Broad-leafed evergreens such as mountain laurel or rhododendron are a bit less tolerant. Keep in mind, too, that if you snip those plants this time of year, you may be removing next spring’s blossoms. It’s your plant; you’ll have to decide if it’s worth it.
PERMISSION — Taking plants, or parts of plants off other people’s property technically constitutes trespassing and, probably, theft. I have a friend at a local police department who said his station always gets a few calls about missing trees or branches during the holidays. Most people will probably allow you to collect a few evergreen tips if you ask politely and show them you know what you’re doing.
INVASIVES — One of my pet peeves is other magazines who promote wreaths made with Asiatic bittersweet. While beautiful because of its bright reddish-orange berries, bittersweet is a nasty invasive. If these seeds drop off your wreath, they can later germinate and contribute to the spread of this plant. Click here for a list of other invasive plants.
If you insist on using invasive plants, try to burn your wreaths after the holidays, or add them to garbage that’s going to an incinerator rather than a landfill.
NATURE — As I’ve learned on numerous hikes with Dr. Richard Churchill, our staff botanist, nature can be more tender than we may think. Trampling moss, peeling bark off trees or stealing birds nests from trees is just bad form. Don’t do it. You can usually find plenty of other materials for decorations.
POISONS — Though not high on the list of holiday perils, plant poisonings do show up in the news from time to time. The berries of holly, mistletoe and yew all contain compounds with varying degrees of toxicity. If you suspect a plant poisoning, call the American Association of Poison Control Centers’ national emergency hotline at 800-222-1222. You will be immediately connected to a poison center in your local area. For one of the best databases of poisonous plants, check out Cornell University’s web site.
With only a few weeks remaining until Christmas and Hanukkah, which begins on Christmas day this year, we hope you’ll consider taking advantage of our awesome holiday subscription offer. Through a special advertising promotion, we are able to offer all subscribers and gift recipients a $25 coupon toward any merchandise at Gardens Alive, one of the nation’s leading garden catalogue companies. We’re also cut the price for a one-year subscription by $5, to $19.95, and we’re donating an additional $5 to the American Red Cross hurricane relief effort. You can click here https://www.ppplants.com/order/holiday.html to take advantage.
Paul Tukey, December 5, 2005.
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