Bringing Plants In Over The Winter

It’s that time of year where gardeners, especially in the colder climates, need to begin to bring tropical and non-hardy plant material indoors for the winter. Plants should be brought indoors before nighttime temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. A lot of tropical plants will suffer damage once the temperature goes below 40 degrees; some below 50F. Here is how to proceed quickly and efficiently.

First, walk around your garden and note what plant material you plan on bringing indoors. Only select plant material that looks healthy. If a plant has yellow, chewed up leaves or is looking limp, forget about it. Plants have a difficult enough time making the transition for outdoors to indoors, that it is best to only bring in healthy looking specimens. If there are certain plants that you wish to take cuttings from such as coleus, salvias, lantanas, geraniums and begonias, now is the time to do it.

Making new plants from cuttings is easy. First, you cut a three to four inch long piece off of the original plant. Remove all of the bottom leaves and place the end of the cutting in a mix of peat and perlite in any small container with drainage. Dipping the tip of the cutting in rooting hormone powder (which can be bought at any garden center) encourages greater success with rooting. The rooting medium should be kept moist. Once the cuttings have rooted, they can be transplanted into small two or four inch containers with good drainage. Coleus and certain salvias can be water rooted; an old fashioned way of making new plants that so many of us were taught to do by our mothers or grandmothers.
 
If the plant is in the ground, dig it up carefully so that you get as much of the root mass as possible. If the roots of the plant are scraggly and overgrown, feel free to trim them a bit. Select containers that are large enough so that the root system of the plant can lay comfortably. Containers should also have holes for drainage. Center plant in the pot and add store bought potting mix in with the plant. Water and set aside in a cool, shady spot outside.

If the plant material you are planning to bring indoors is already in containers, set the containers aside in a cool, shady spot outdoors. If the plant spent the summer outside in a pot, lift the plant out of the pot to make sure that slugs or slug eggs are not nestled in the bottom of the pot. Often this is how slugs enter a pot and then young slugs will feed on the roots of the plant. It is easy enough to pick off the slugs if you find them inside the pot before putting the plant back in the container.

Now is also a good time to repot plants if needed. First, take the plant out of the pot to see if it is root bound. Feel free to trim some of the roots if they are wrapped around or scraggly. Usually going up one container size in plenty; for example, if your plant was in an 8 inch pot, re-pot in a 10 inch pot. Add good quality potting mix; making sure that the plant is snuggly positioned in the center of the pot. And finally, prune plant in the shape that you want it; this will make it look bushier and will actually help maintain its vigor over the coming months.

Once plants are potted up and trimmed and placed in a shady location outside, inspect all plant material for any insects or disease. If you notice any type of fungus, immediately spray with an organic fungicide on both the upper and lower leaves and separate infected plant from other plants. Regardless of whether or not the plants are showing any signs of insects, I automatically spray every plant with Neem oil, an organic insecticide, on both the top and bottom of the leaves. Continue to check plant material over the next three to four days. If any signs of insects persist, spray again and wait a few more days before bringing indoors.

When bringing plants indoors, place them near a bright window; unless they are strictly shade loving plants such as ferns or begonias. Don’t be surprised initially if the plant drops some leaves and yellows a bit. It is adjusting to its new environs.

Plants indoors usually do not need to be watered as frequently. Only water when plants are dry. Also cut back on fertilizer. I try to mist my plants as often as possible; especially when I turn on the heat in my home.

Check your plant material every few days for insects. If you notice any insects at all, place plant under a stream of cold water to get rid of them and become vigilant about misting your plants and keeping your thermometer near 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Article By Fran Sorin
www.fransoring.com

Creating A Vibrant Fall Garden

For at least the first decade of my life as a gardener, when the sweltering August heat turned my yard into what looked like a hayfield, I all but considered the gardening season finished. I always felt cheated that, although the calendar still registered summertime, the creative planning and planting I so enjoyed was over until spring.

At some point, though, it became clear to me that fall actually was a separate and satisfying gardening season. By experimenting with a variety of fall-blooming bushes, tree and perennials, I discovered I could cajole an extra two months of color and texture -- with such great success that I realized fall is the unheralded jewel of the gardening seasons.

To create a fall garden, you need some basic knowledge of the trees, bushes and perennials that are at the apex of their bloom and color then. Select specimens that you like and believe will work well in your garden. Take into consideration your site variables (sunny, shady, moist, dry), the amount of space available for planting, how your plant selections will complement the other specimens already ensconced in your garden and whether the specimens are hardy in your region. (Check the U.S. Department of Agriculture's map of climate zones.)

The specimens you choose should be planted enough in advance so they have a chance to get acclimated to their new home before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, remember to add organic matter to your soil so it's rich and crumbly, dig a hole deep and wide enough so the roots can spread out easily when planted, tamp the soil around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets and use a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to protect the plant throughout the winter.

Finally, water, water, water. It's easy to assume that plants don't require as much water in the fall. Not true. Any time of the year, the first two to four weeks after planting are the most critical for future health. I have found that the most efficient, effective method of watering is to pull a hose up to the base of the tree or bush. I use a slow trickle that is soaked up almost immediately by the roots.

There's such an abundance of fall-blooming specimens that it's difficult to choose among them -- but I have my favorites. All of these woody bushes and perennials are beautiful and hardy and give terrific "bang for the buck"; several offer gorgeous blooms and scents in the spring, with rapturous fall foliage. When designing your autumn garden, think in terms of oranges, yellows, purples, carmine red, and light violets and blues. It's the garden's last dance before it goes to sleep.

Plants I recommend for the autumn garden.

Shrubs:
Cotinus coggygria "Royal Purple" (smoke bush). This bushy shrub's oval, dark reddish-purple summer leaves turn scarlet in autumn. It can be grown in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in either partial shade or full sun and does best when used as a specimen planting or foundation planting. Hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

Hamamelis (witch hazel). This is a small genus consisting of only five or six deciduous woody shrubs that are grown for their luxurious autumn color as well as their fragrant, spider-shaped winter flowers. It grows in fairly fertile, acidic to neutral soil in partial shade to full sun (but not in an exposed site) and looks terrific grouped in a shrub border or woodland setting. Depending on the species, these can be hardy anywhere from Zone 3 to Zone 9.

Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire). This native shrub is grown for its holly-like leaves with small, aromatic white flowers that bloom in spring. Leaves turn from green to red to purple in fall. It does best when grown in slightly acidic soil, in partial shade to full sun. I have had success growing it in both moist and somewhat dry soil. Virginia sweetspire is maximized when grown in a shrub or mixed border. Hardy in Zones 6 to 9.

Perennials:
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (perennial leadwort). This bushy plant grows only 18 inches tall, with oval green leaves that turn deep orange and red in autumn. Cornflower-blue clusters bloom in late summer through fall on reddish stems, making it ideal for mixed borders or containers. It does well in moist, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Hardy in Zones 6 to 9.

Molinia (moor grass). This genus of only two species of perennial grass is grown for its attractive form, autumn foliage and loose, airy panicles. It grows well in moist, preferably acidic to neutral soil, in partial shade or full sun, and spreads rapidly. Great for use in masses in a border or as a specimen planting. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

Panicum virgatum "Heavy Metal" (switch grass). This 6-foot-tall grass forms clumps of silver-blue stalks that turn yellow in autumn. Its elegant panicles develop red to bronze tones when fall approaches. It does well in almost any decent soil in full sun. Hardy in Zones 5 to 10.

Article By Fran Sorin
www.fransorin.com

Red-Hot Mocha

As a garden writer, I often get asked the most difficult of questions: What is your favorite plant? It's a query akin to asking which of my children I love the most, and I often defer to the answer offered by the late plantsman Allen Haskell, who always said something along the lines of " . . . whichever plant is in bloom that day."

When pressed, I often cite lemon-scented thyme as my favorite plant. I just love planting it around my walkways, driveway and other full-sun areas. It's impossible to tire of the lemon fragrance that clings to your shoes or the leg of your pants. Tolerant of hot, dry locations and moderate shade, Thymus citriodorus is a great lawn substitute unless your soil is too moist for prolonged periods.

Enough about thyme, though. A new plant is creeping up my top 10 list since it arrived in a package of plant samples from the folks at Proven Winners, who are known for their annual plants that spill out of containers. A most unassuming plant when it arrived, a heuchera known as 'Dolce Mocha Mint' has been a spectacular performer for consecutive summers in my Zone 4b garden.

Coral bells, as heucheras are commonly known, have long been underappreciated inhabitants of the shade garden. When a cultivar known as 'Palace Purple' hit the market a few years ago and earned some attention from the Perennial Plant Association, coral bells started showing up in more garden centers. Breeding has recently intensified into varieties like 'Mocha Mint.'

The plant's medium-sized leaves have hints of purple, green and silver and provide an almost year-round backdrop. I planted my samples under a birch tree with a fairly low canopy, figuring the foliage would be a nice complement to the green leaves and white bark of the tree.

Last year, the plants bloomed like crazy, but I figured maybe that was a first-year aberration. This year, though, the red flowers emerged in early June and when I looked outside on Aug. 7, the color had faded but was still discernable. For a heuchera to bloom for two months with flowers of any note is amazing -- a major step forward in comparison to previous cultivars of coral bells.

The official zone rating of the plant is Zone 5a, but 'Mocha Mint' made it through last winter in New Gloucester, Maine, when several other alleged Zone 5 plants such as gaura, hibiscus and even lychnis did not.

Northeast winters can be fickle and the plant could still prove to be too tender in time. At two months of bloom, though, this plant holds up well, even as an annual. If you need a perennial to brighten up a shady area, I'd encourage you to give 'Mocha Mint' a try.

-Paul Tukey: August 11, 2006.

Landscaping Your Yard On A Budget

One of the first questions that clients tend to ask me upon an initial meeting to discuss landscaping their property is: “How much is this going to cost me?” to which I always respond “Don’t think about that now. Concentrate on what you want and need. And whatever you tell me the budget is, I promise we will not go over that amount.” This is the same piece of advice that I offer to you for the following reasons.

Developing or creating your own landscape (with or without the assistance of a professional) is simply a matter of brainstorming, prioritizing and then problem solving. The first step is to spend time thinking of what you want (i.e. a cutting garden, a cottage garden front yard) as well as what you need (i.e. an area for a basketball hoop, a place for a swing set) and letting your imagination run wild. Do you remember ever being taught that brainstorming is a process by which you let all of your ideas, from the sublime to the grandiose, come to life on a piece of paper? If you censor yourself in advance and only think in ‘logical’ terms, you may miss out on a concept that could help to make your garden a very special haven.

After you’ve brainstormed and realized what works and what doesn’t (i.e. you may have thought you wanted a barbeque pit but then your husband reminds you that you hate cooking outside in the summer because of the bugs), it would make sense to edit your ‘wish list’ and number your’ wants and needs’ in order of importance.

Finally, make a rudimentary sketch of your property and begin to sketch in the landscape elements on the sheet of paper to see how and where they would fit on your property. This sketch is strictly for you; so that you can begin to imagine the most effective way of designing your landscape. Give yourself time and patience with this stage, the stage that I call ‘problem solving’. You may end up doing a half dozen sketches before you get a sense that you are on the right track. Don’t try to do it all in one sitting. If you get frustrated with your lack of progress, leave this piece of the project alone and come back to it at some later point.

If you do what is suggested above, it will save you a tremendous amount of time and money as you work towards creating your landscape. Along with the above ideas are some tips on working on a budget:

1. Always have a master plan from which to work. If your budget doesn’t allow, do the landscaping in stages. For example, if you are building a new home and are left with only dirt after the house is completed, you may only be able to afford landscaping the front of your house and seeding the front and back yards for the first year.

2. If you are not doing the landscaping yourself, interview at least three different landscapers, garden designers etc. to be able to compare prices and perhaps to get more ideas.

3. In order to cut costs, use smaller plant material (even with evergreens) selectively (particularly when it is a fast growing specimen, i.e Leyland Cypress).

4. If you are Doing It Yourself, comparison shop. Take into consideration the quality of the plant, the size and the reputation of the store from which you are purchasing it. Do they stand by their plant material and do they offer a warrantee?

5. If you are using a garden designer, find out from where they are purchasing their plant material and ask to see some of the properties they have landscaped.

6. Make sure that you have good thick, top soil on your property so that you can grow healthy, long lasting grass. If you are digging beds, add plenty of organic matter and roto-till it in to soil as deeply as possible. It is worth the time, energy and money.

7. Don’t be disheartened when you finish landscaping your property. The first season, your yard and garden beds will most probably still feel somewhat bare and you might even think to yourself: “Will these plants ever grow?” Trust me, they will grow, more quickly than you can imagine. And believe it or not, watching them grow over the seasons can be one of the great pleasures of designing your own landscape

8. Continue to work from your master plan over the coming years; making amendments when necessary. If you keep on adding new elements to your property each season (even on a limited budget), you will be surprised at how quickly your property will evolve from a somewhat sparse space to an organic, lush, living outdoor space.

Article by: By Fran Sorin

Watering the garden - How to make each drop count

Have you ever stood watering the garden on a hot summer afternoon, the sprayer nozzle and hose in one hand and a cool drink in the other? It feels good, but the trouble is, you're getting a better drink than your plants are.

Why? You're using the wrong tool for the job.

A sprayer nozzle is great for washing the car, but pretty ineffective for watering because it gushes a high-pressure jet that flattens plants. This makes it almost impossible to stay in one spot long enough to give an adequate amount of water. A sprayer nozzle just won't deliver enough moisture to penetrate the soil to the root level where plants take it up.

Then there's the fact that a hot mid-afternoon is about the worst time to water this way, or to run a sprinkler as a lot of water evaporates in the heat.

Watering the garden the right way

Plants need moisture — a healthy plant is 75 to 90 percent water. Adequate water is especially critical during the first few weeks of growth, while plants are building their root systems and getting established.

To water individual plants or plants in containers, rather than a hose end sprayer nozzle, the better tool is a watering can, or a hose-end watering wand. A watering wand has a water breaker with many tiny holes to release water in a soft shower rather than a high-pressure stream.

More tips for watering the garden

• Don't water if you don't have to — too much water is as bad as too little. Measure and keep track of rainfall on a calendar. The ideal for most gardens is an inch every week, but many established plants can easily weather short periods of dryness. If heat and drought are prolonged, water your most valuable plants.


• When you're watering the garden, give infrequent but generous waterings, about an inch once a week. Avoid frequent shallow waterings, which only encourage roots to stay near the soil surface. The more deeply rooted your plants, the more resilient they'll be in a dry period.


• When you water, moisture should penetrate the top five or six inches of soil. Dig a small hole with your hand trowel an hour after you've watered to check. Let the soil surface dry between waterings.


• The best time for watering the garden is early in the morning or in the evening. In the heat of the day — between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. — sun and wind quickly evaporate a significant quantity of water.


• Overhead watering with a sprinkler is best done early in the morning so that leaves can dry off through the day. Foliage that's frequently wet overnight creates the perfect environment for fungal diseases.


• Add organic matter to improve soil's ability to retain moisture. This benefits all soils, but it is especially important for helping sandy soils retain water.


• When planting, whether annuals, perennials, trees or shrubs, dig a hole, fill it with water to allow moisture to be absorbed into the soil. Then put the plant into the moistened hole, firm soil around the roots and water again.


• Once they're in the ground, keep new plants moist, watering generously once a week if it doesn't rain adequately. After six to eight weeks, gradually cut back on watering.


• Mulch bare soil to a depth of two to four inches to help retain moisture.

Article by: Yvonne Cunnington
www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com