For those of you who think that you have to wait until January 2007 to begin to peruse and select seeds from those luscious seed catalogues, you’re wrong.
Over the past couple of years, I have made it my practice in mid-fall to sit down with a cup of tea and the latest Thompson and Morgan seed catalogue and begin to leisurely peruse through it marking off the selections that interest me.
During the lull of the winter months, I love fiddling around with at least 8 or 9 different types of seeds to see how they germinate and grow during the winter months indoors. It may seem like extra work to continue to re-pot them and perhaps even bring some to bloom prior to the season, but especially if you’re a precise colorist, it’s worth it.
Here are some of my picks:
Foxglove Mountain Candy: “It is totally unique as it is the first upward facing foxglove from seed. This unusual characteristic enables you, and the bees, to peep inside the stunning rose pink blooms and view their delightful freckled throats, which appear all the way around the stems. These flower stems are so strong, sturdy and erect that in breeding trials Candy Mountain was given the nickname 'Viagra'! Ideal for planting in drifts, creating a colourful display towards the middle or back of your perennial or cottage garden borders.”
Sweet Pea ‘Fragrantissima’: “A full color spectrum formula blended to ensure an even balance of color. Specially selected for quality of blooms and intensity of fragrance. Attractive, large flowered and strong stemmed, making wonderful cut flowers for enjoying several months in the house and garden.”
Salvia lyrata ‘Purple Volcano’: “Stunning mounds of deep purple foliage from which erupt deep purple stems, bursting with delicate white flowers. Perfect for adding color contrast to borders and containers. Hardy in Zones 4-9.”
Anchusa leptophylla ‘Blue Shower’: “Attractive showers of power-blue flowers smother mounds of foliage all summer continuing into autumn, creating a long lasting border display from this outstanding perennial. Hardy in Zones 6-8.”
Centaurea moschata ‘Dairy Maid’: “Attractive, large yellow flowers. Recommended for its cutting and border qualities and delicious chocolate fragrance, that earned it the appropriate name of ‘Sweet Sultan’.
Sunflower ‘Earth Walker’: “A diverse mixture of attractive browns and terracottas, with an occasional deeper chocolate shade. Tall, multi-headed stems flower over a long period, so ideal used in borders or for cutting.”
**All descriptions of specimens have been taken directly from The Thompson and Morgan catalogue and on line site. For more information on these seeds, click on: http://www.thompsonandmorgan.com/
Articles By Fran Sorin
www.fransorin.com
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
Bringing Plants In Over The Winter
It’s that time of year where gardeners, especially in the colder climates, need to begin to bring tropical and non-hardy plant material indoors for the winter. Plants should be brought indoors before nighttime temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. A lot of tropical plants will suffer damage once the temperature goes below 40 degrees; some below 50F. Here is how to proceed quickly and efficiently.
First, walk around your garden and note what plant material you plan on bringing indoors. Only select plant material that looks healthy. If a plant has yellow, chewed up leaves or is looking limp, forget about it. Plants have a difficult enough time making the transition for outdoors to indoors, that it is best to only bring in healthy looking specimens. If there are certain plants that you wish to take cuttings from such as coleus, salvias, lantanas, geraniums and begonias, now is the time to do it.
Making new plants from cuttings is easy. First, you cut a three to four inch long piece off of the original plant. Remove all of the bottom leaves and place the end of the cutting in a mix of peat and perlite in any small container with drainage. Dipping the tip of the cutting in rooting hormone powder (which can be bought at any garden center) encourages greater success with rooting. The rooting medium should be kept moist. Once the cuttings have rooted, they can be transplanted into small two or four inch containers with good drainage. Coleus and certain salvias can be water rooted; an old fashioned way of making new plants that so many of us were taught to do by our mothers or grandmothers.
If the plant is in the ground, dig it up carefully so that you get as much of the root mass as possible. If the roots of the plant are scraggly and overgrown, feel free to trim them a bit. Select containers that are large enough so that the root system of the plant can lay comfortably. Containers should also have holes for drainage. Center plant in the pot and add store bought potting mix in with the plant. Water and set aside in a cool, shady spot outside.
If the plant material you are planning to bring indoors is already in containers, set the containers aside in a cool, shady spot outdoors. If the plant spent the summer outside in a pot, lift the plant out of the pot to make sure that slugs or slug eggs are not nestled in the bottom of the pot. Often this is how slugs enter a pot and then young slugs will feed on the roots of the plant. It is easy enough to pick off the slugs if you find them inside the pot before putting the plant back in the container.
Now is also a good time to repot plants if needed. First, take the plant out of the pot to see if it is root bound. Feel free to trim some of the roots if they are wrapped around or scraggly. Usually going up one container size in plenty; for example, if your plant was in an 8 inch pot, re-pot in a 10 inch pot. Add good quality potting mix; making sure that the plant is snuggly positioned in the center of the pot. And finally, prune plant in the shape that you want it; this will make it look bushier and will actually help maintain its vigor over the coming months.
Once plants are potted up and trimmed and placed in a shady location outside, inspect all plant material for any insects or disease. If you notice any type of fungus, immediately spray with an organic fungicide on both the upper and lower leaves and separate infected plant from other plants. Regardless of whether or not the plants are showing any signs of insects, I automatically spray every plant with Neem oil, an organic insecticide, on both the top and bottom of the leaves. Continue to check plant material over the next three to four days. If any signs of insects persist, spray again and wait a few more days before bringing indoors.
When bringing plants indoors, place them near a bright window; unless they are strictly shade loving plants such as ferns or begonias. Don’t be surprised initially if the plant drops some leaves and yellows a bit. It is adjusting to its new environs.
Plants indoors usually do not need to be watered as frequently. Only water when plants are dry. Also cut back on fertilizer. I try to mist my plants as often as possible; especially when I turn on the heat in my home.
Check your plant material every few days for insects. If you notice any insects at all, place plant under a stream of cold water to get rid of them and become vigilant about misting your plants and keeping your thermometer near 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Article By Fran Sorin
www.fransoring.com
First, walk around your garden and note what plant material you plan on bringing indoors. Only select plant material that looks healthy. If a plant has yellow, chewed up leaves or is looking limp, forget about it. Plants have a difficult enough time making the transition for outdoors to indoors, that it is best to only bring in healthy looking specimens. If there are certain plants that you wish to take cuttings from such as coleus, salvias, lantanas, geraniums and begonias, now is the time to do it.
Making new plants from cuttings is easy. First, you cut a three to four inch long piece off of the original plant. Remove all of the bottom leaves and place the end of the cutting in a mix of peat and perlite in any small container with drainage. Dipping the tip of the cutting in rooting hormone powder (which can be bought at any garden center) encourages greater success with rooting. The rooting medium should be kept moist. Once the cuttings have rooted, they can be transplanted into small two or four inch containers with good drainage. Coleus and certain salvias can be water rooted; an old fashioned way of making new plants that so many of us were taught to do by our mothers or grandmothers.
If the plant is in the ground, dig it up carefully so that you get as much of the root mass as possible. If the roots of the plant are scraggly and overgrown, feel free to trim them a bit. Select containers that are large enough so that the root system of the plant can lay comfortably. Containers should also have holes for drainage. Center plant in the pot and add store bought potting mix in with the plant. Water and set aside in a cool, shady spot outside.
If the plant material you are planning to bring indoors is already in containers, set the containers aside in a cool, shady spot outdoors. If the plant spent the summer outside in a pot, lift the plant out of the pot to make sure that slugs or slug eggs are not nestled in the bottom of the pot. Often this is how slugs enter a pot and then young slugs will feed on the roots of the plant. It is easy enough to pick off the slugs if you find them inside the pot before putting the plant back in the container.
Now is also a good time to repot plants if needed. First, take the plant out of the pot to see if it is root bound. Feel free to trim some of the roots if they are wrapped around or scraggly. Usually going up one container size in plenty; for example, if your plant was in an 8 inch pot, re-pot in a 10 inch pot. Add good quality potting mix; making sure that the plant is snuggly positioned in the center of the pot. And finally, prune plant in the shape that you want it; this will make it look bushier and will actually help maintain its vigor over the coming months.
Once plants are potted up and trimmed and placed in a shady location outside, inspect all plant material for any insects or disease. If you notice any type of fungus, immediately spray with an organic fungicide on both the upper and lower leaves and separate infected plant from other plants. Regardless of whether or not the plants are showing any signs of insects, I automatically spray every plant with Neem oil, an organic insecticide, on both the top and bottom of the leaves. Continue to check plant material over the next three to four days. If any signs of insects persist, spray again and wait a few more days before bringing indoors.
When bringing plants indoors, place them near a bright window; unless they are strictly shade loving plants such as ferns or begonias. Don’t be surprised initially if the plant drops some leaves and yellows a bit. It is adjusting to its new environs.
Plants indoors usually do not need to be watered as frequently. Only water when plants are dry. Also cut back on fertilizer. I try to mist my plants as often as possible; especially when I turn on the heat in my home.
Check your plant material every few days for insects. If you notice any insects at all, place plant under a stream of cold water to get rid of them and become vigilant about misting your plants and keeping your thermometer near 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Article By Fran Sorin
www.fransoring.com
Sunday, October 01, 2006
Creating A Vibrant Fall Garden
For at least the first decade of my life as a gardener, when the sweltering August heat turned my yard into what looked like a hayfield, I all but considered the gardening season finished. I always felt cheated that, although the calendar still registered summertime, the creative planning and planting I so enjoyed was over until spring.
At some point, though, it became clear to me that fall actually was a separate and satisfying gardening season. By experimenting with a variety of fall-blooming bushes, tree and perennials, I discovered I could cajole an extra two months of color and texture -- with such great success that I realized fall is the unheralded jewel of the gardening seasons.
To create a fall garden, you need some basic knowledge of the trees, bushes and perennials that are at the apex of their bloom and color then. Select specimens that you like and believe will work well in your garden. Take into consideration your site variables (sunny, shady, moist, dry), the amount of space available for planting, how your plant selections will complement the other specimens already ensconced in your garden and whether the specimens are hardy in your region. (Check the U.S. Department of Agriculture's map of climate zones.)
The specimens you choose should be planted enough in advance so they have a chance to get acclimated to their new home before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, remember to add organic matter to your soil so it's rich and crumbly, dig a hole deep and wide enough so the roots can spread out easily when planted, tamp the soil around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets and use a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to protect the plant throughout the winter.
Finally, water, water, water. It's easy to assume that plants don't require as much water in the fall. Not true. Any time of the year, the first two to four weeks after planting are the most critical for future health. I have found that the most efficient, effective method of watering is to pull a hose up to the base of the tree or bush. I use a slow trickle that is soaked up almost immediately by the roots.
There's such an abundance of fall-blooming specimens that it's difficult to choose among them -- but I have my favorites. All of these woody bushes and perennials are beautiful and hardy and give terrific "bang for the buck"; several offer gorgeous blooms and scents in the spring, with rapturous fall foliage. When designing your autumn garden, think in terms of oranges, yellows, purples, carmine red, and light violets and blues. It's the garden's last dance before it goes to sleep.
Plants I recommend for the autumn garden.
Shrubs:
Cotinus coggygria "Royal Purple" (smoke bush). This bushy shrub's oval, dark reddish-purple summer leaves turn scarlet in autumn. It can be grown in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in either partial shade or full sun and does best when used as a specimen planting or foundation planting. Hardy in Zones 5 to 8.
Hamamelis (witch hazel). This is a small genus consisting of only five or six deciduous woody shrubs that are grown for their luxurious autumn color as well as their fragrant, spider-shaped winter flowers. It grows in fairly fertile, acidic to neutral soil in partial shade to full sun (but not in an exposed site) and looks terrific grouped in a shrub border or woodland setting. Depending on the species, these can be hardy anywhere from Zone 3 to Zone 9.
Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire). This native shrub is grown for its holly-like leaves with small, aromatic white flowers that bloom in spring. Leaves turn from green to red to purple in fall. It does best when grown in slightly acidic soil, in partial shade to full sun. I have had success growing it in both moist and somewhat dry soil. Virginia sweetspire is maximized when grown in a shrub or mixed border. Hardy in Zones 6 to 9.
Perennials:
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (perennial leadwort). This bushy plant grows only 18 inches tall, with oval green leaves that turn deep orange and red in autumn. Cornflower-blue clusters bloom in late summer through fall on reddish stems, making it ideal for mixed borders or containers. It does well in moist, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Hardy in Zones 6 to 9.
Molinia (moor grass). This genus of only two species of perennial grass is grown for its attractive form, autumn foliage and loose, airy panicles. It grows well in moist, preferably acidic to neutral soil, in partial shade or full sun, and spreads rapidly. Great for use in masses in a border or as a specimen planting. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.
Panicum virgatum "Heavy Metal" (switch grass). This 6-foot-tall grass forms clumps of silver-blue stalks that turn yellow in autumn. Its elegant panicles develop red to bronze tones when fall approaches. It does well in almost any decent soil in full sun. Hardy in Zones 5 to 10.
Article By Fran Sorin
www.fransorin.com
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Red-Hot Mocha
As a garden writer, I often get asked the most difficult of questions: What is your favorite plant? It's a query akin to asking which of my children I love the most, and I often defer to the answer offered by the late plantsman Allen Haskell, who always said something along the lines of " . . . whichever plant is in bloom that day."
When pressed, I often cite lemon-scented thyme as my favorite plant. I just love planting it around my walkways, driveway and other full-sun areas. It's impossible to tire of the lemon fragrance that clings to your shoes or the leg of your pants. Tolerant of hot, dry locations and moderate shade, Thymus citriodorus is a great lawn substitute unless your soil is too moist for prolonged periods.
Enough about thyme, though. A new plant is creeping up my top 10 list since it arrived in a package of plant samples from the folks at Proven Winners, who are known for their annual plants that spill out of containers. A most unassuming plant when it arrived, a heuchera known as 'Dolce Mocha Mint' has been a spectacular performer for consecutive summers in my Zone 4b garden.
Coral bells, as heucheras are commonly known, have long been underappreciated inhabitants of the shade garden. When a cultivar known as 'Palace Purple' hit the market a few years ago and earned some attention from the Perennial Plant Association, coral bells started showing up in more garden centers. Breeding has recently intensified into varieties like 'Mocha Mint.'
The plant's medium-sized leaves have hints of purple, green and silver and provide an almost year-round backdrop. I planted my samples under a birch tree with a fairly low canopy, figuring the foliage would be a nice complement to the green leaves and white bark of the tree.
Last year, the plants bloomed like crazy, but I figured maybe that was a first-year aberration. This year, though, the red flowers emerged in early June and when I looked outside on Aug. 7, the color had faded but was still discernable. For a heuchera to bloom for two months with flowers of any note is amazing -- a major step forward in comparison to previous cultivars of coral bells.
The official zone rating of the plant is Zone 5a, but 'Mocha Mint' made it through last winter in New Gloucester, Maine, when several other alleged Zone 5 plants such as gaura, hibiscus and even lychnis did not.
Northeast winters can be fickle and the plant could still prove to be too tender in time. At two months of bloom, though, this plant holds up well, even as an annual. If you need a perennial to brighten up a shady area, I'd encourage you to give 'Mocha Mint' a try.
-Paul Tukey: August 11, 2006.
When pressed, I often cite lemon-scented thyme as my favorite plant. I just love planting it around my walkways, driveway and other full-sun areas. It's impossible to tire of the lemon fragrance that clings to your shoes or the leg of your pants. Tolerant of hot, dry locations and moderate shade, Thymus citriodorus is a great lawn substitute unless your soil is too moist for prolonged periods.
Enough about thyme, though. A new plant is creeping up my top 10 list since it arrived in a package of plant samples from the folks at Proven Winners, who are known for their annual plants that spill out of containers. A most unassuming plant when it arrived, a heuchera known as 'Dolce Mocha Mint' has been a spectacular performer for consecutive summers in my Zone 4b garden.
Coral bells, as heucheras are commonly known, have long been underappreciated inhabitants of the shade garden. When a cultivar known as 'Palace Purple' hit the market a few years ago and earned some attention from the Perennial Plant Association, coral bells started showing up in more garden centers. Breeding has recently intensified into varieties like 'Mocha Mint.'
The plant's medium-sized leaves have hints of purple, green and silver and provide an almost year-round backdrop. I planted my samples under a birch tree with a fairly low canopy, figuring the foliage would be a nice complement to the green leaves and white bark of the tree.
Last year, the plants bloomed like crazy, but I figured maybe that was a first-year aberration. This year, though, the red flowers emerged in early June and when I looked outside on Aug. 7, the color had faded but was still discernable. For a heuchera to bloom for two months with flowers of any note is amazing -- a major step forward in comparison to previous cultivars of coral bells.
The official zone rating of the plant is Zone 5a, but 'Mocha Mint' made it through last winter in New Gloucester, Maine, when several other alleged Zone 5 plants such as gaura, hibiscus and even lychnis did not.
Northeast winters can be fickle and the plant could still prove to be too tender in time. At two months of bloom, though, this plant holds up well, even as an annual. If you need a perennial to brighten up a shady area, I'd encourage you to give 'Mocha Mint' a try.
-Paul Tukey: August 11, 2006.
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
Landscaping Your Yard On A Budget
One of the first questions that clients tend to ask me upon an initial meeting to discuss landscaping their property is: “How much is this going to cost me?” to which I always respond “Don’t think about that now. Concentrate on what you want and need. And whatever you tell me the budget is, I promise we will not go over that amount.” This is the same piece of advice that I offer to you for the following reasons.
Developing or creating your own landscape (with or without the assistance of a professional) is simply a matter of brainstorming, prioritizing and then problem solving. The first step is to spend time thinking of what you want (i.e. a cutting garden, a cottage garden front yard) as well as what you need (i.e. an area for a basketball hoop, a place for a swing set) and letting your imagination run wild. Do you remember ever being taught that brainstorming is a process by which you let all of your ideas, from the sublime to the grandiose, come to life on a piece of paper? If you censor yourself in advance and only think in ‘logical’ terms, you may miss out on a concept that could help to make your garden a very special haven.
After you’ve brainstormed and realized what works and what doesn’t (i.e. you may have thought you wanted a barbeque pit but then your husband reminds you that you hate cooking outside in the summer because of the bugs), it would make sense to edit your ‘wish list’ and number your’ wants and needs’ in order of importance.
Finally, make a rudimentary sketch of your property and begin to sketch in the landscape elements on the sheet of paper to see how and where they would fit on your property. This sketch is strictly for you; so that you can begin to imagine the most effective way of designing your landscape. Give yourself time and patience with this stage, the stage that I call ‘problem solving’. You may end up doing a half dozen sketches before you get a sense that you are on the right track. Don’t try to do it all in one sitting. If you get frustrated with your lack of progress, leave this piece of the project alone and come back to it at some later point.
If you do what is suggested above, it will save you a tremendous amount of time and money as you work towards creating your landscape. Along with the above ideas are some tips on working on a budget:
1. Always have a master plan from which to work. If your budget doesn’t allow, do the landscaping in stages. For example, if you are building a new home and are left with only dirt after the house is completed, you may only be able to afford landscaping the front of your house and seeding the front and back yards for the first year.
2. If you are not doing the landscaping yourself, interview at least three different landscapers, garden designers etc. to be able to compare prices and perhaps to get more ideas.
3. In order to cut costs, use smaller plant material (even with evergreens) selectively (particularly when it is a fast growing specimen, i.e Leyland Cypress).
4. If you are Doing It Yourself, comparison shop. Take into consideration the quality of the plant, the size and the reputation of the store from which you are purchasing it. Do they stand by their plant material and do they offer a warrantee?
5. If you are using a garden designer, find out from where they are purchasing their plant material and ask to see some of the properties they have landscaped.
6. Make sure that you have good thick, top soil on your property so that you can grow healthy, long lasting grass. If you are digging beds, add plenty of organic matter and roto-till it in to soil as deeply as possible. It is worth the time, energy and money.
7. Don’t be disheartened when you finish landscaping your property. The first season, your yard and garden beds will most probably still feel somewhat bare and you might even think to yourself: “Will these plants ever grow?” Trust me, they will grow, more quickly than you can imagine. And believe it or not, watching them grow over the seasons can be one of the great pleasures of designing your own landscape
8. Continue to work from your master plan over the coming years; making amendments when necessary. If you keep on adding new elements to your property each season (even on a limited budget), you will be surprised at how quickly your property will evolve from a somewhat sparse space to an organic, lush, living outdoor space.
Article by: By Fran Sorin
Developing or creating your own landscape (with or without the assistance of a professional) is simply a matter of brainstorming, prioritizing and then problem solving. The first step is to spend time thinking of what you want (i.e. a cutting garden, a cottage garden front yard) as well as what you need (i.e. an area for a basketball hoop, a place for a swing set) and letting your imagination run wild. Do you remember ever being taught that brainstorming is a process by which you let all of your ideas, from the sublime to the grandiose, come to life on a piece of paper? If you censor yourself in advance and only think in ‘logical’ terms, you may miss out on a concept that could help to make your garden a very special haven.
After you’ve brainstormed and realized what works and what doesn’t (i.e. you may have thought you wanted a barbeque pit but then your husband reminds you that you hate cooking outside in the summer because of the bugs), it would make sense to edit your ‘wish list’ and number your’ wants and needs’ in order of importance.
Finally, make a rudimentary sketch of your property and begin to sketch in the landscape elements on the sheet of paper to see how and where they would fit on your property. This sketch is strictly for you; so that you can begin to imagine the most effective way of designing your landscape. Give yourself time and patience with this stage, the stage that I call ‘problem solving’. You may end up doing a half dozen sketches before you get a sense that you are on the right track. Don’t try to do it all in one sitting. If you get frustrated with your lack of progress, leave this piece of the project alone and come back to it at some later point.
If you do what is suggested above, it will save you a tremendous amount of time and money as you work towards creating your landscape. Along with the above ideas are some tips on working on a budget:
1. Always have a master plan from which to work. If your budget doesn’t allow, do the landscaping in stages. For example, if you are building a new home and are left with only dirt after the house is completed, you may only be able to afford landscaping the front of your house and seeding the front and back yards for the first year.
2. If you are not doing the landscaping yourself, interview at least three different landscapers, garden designers etc. to be able to compare prices and perhaps to get more ideas.
3. In order to cut costs, use smaller plant material (even with evergreens) selectively (particularly when it is a fast growing specimen, i.e Leyland Cypress).
4. If you are Doing It Yourself, comparison shop. Take into consideration the quality of the plant, the size and the reputation of the store from which you are purchasing it. Do they stand by their plant material and do they offer a warrantee?
5. If you are using a garden designer, find out from where they are purchasing their plant material and ask to see some of the properties they have landscaped.
6. Make sure that you have good thick, top soil on your property so that you can grow healthy, long lasting grass. If you are digging beds, add plenty of organic matter and roto-till it in to soil as deeply as possible. It is worth the time, energy and money.
7. Don’t be disheartened when you finish landscaping your property. The first season, your yard and garden beds will most probably still feel somewhat bare and you might even think to yourself: “Will these plants ever grow?” Trust me, they will grow, more quickly than you can imagine. And believe it or not, watching them grow over the seasons can be one of the great pleasures of designing your own landscape
8. Continue to work from your master plan over the coming years; making amendments when necessary. If you keep on adding new elements to your property each season (even on a limited budget), you will be surprised at how quickly your property will evolve from a somewhat sparse space to an organic, lush, living outdoor space.
Article by: By Fran Sorin
Wednesday, August 02, 2006
Watering the garden - How to make each drop count
Have you ever stood watering the garden on a hot summer afternoon, the sprayer nozzle and hose in one hand and a cool drink in the other? It feels good, but the trouble is, you're getting a better drink than your plants are.
Why? You're using the wrong tool for the job.
A sprayer nozzle is great for washing the car, but pretty ineffective for watering because it gushes a high-pressure jet that flattens plants. This makes it almost impossible to stay in one spot long enough to give an adequate amount of water. A sprayer nozzle just won't deliver enough moisture to penetrate the soil to the root level where plants take it up.
Then there's the fact that a hot mid-afternoon is about the worst time to water this way, or to run a sprinkler as a lot of water evaporates in the heat.
Watering the garden the right way
Plants need moisture — a healthy plant is 75 to 90 percent water. Adequate water is especially critical during the first few weeks of growth, while plants are building their root systems and getting established.
To water individual plants or plants in containers, rather than a hose end sprayer nozzle, the better tool is a watering can, or a hose-end watering wand. A watering wand has a water breaker with many tiny holes to release water in a soft shower rather than a high-pressure stream.
More tips for watering the garden
Article by: Yvonne Cunnington
www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com
Why? You're using the wrong tool for the job.
A sprayer nozzle is great for washing the car, but pretty ineffective for watering because it gushes a high-pressure jet that flattens plants. This makes it almost impossible to stay in one spot long enough to give an adequate amount of water. A sprayer nozzle just won't deliver enough moisture to penetrate the soil to the root level where plants take it up.
Then there's the fact that a hot mid-afternoon is about the worst time to water this way, or to run a sprinkler as a lot of water evaporates in the heat.
Watering the garden the right way
Plants need moisture — a healthy plant is 75 to 90 percent water. Adequate water is especially critical during the first few weeks of growth, while plants are building their root systems and getting established.
To water individual plants or plants in containers, rather than a hose end sprayer nozzle, the better tool is a watering can, or a hose-end watering wand. A watering wand has a water breaker with many tiny holes to release water in a soft shower rather than a high-pressure stream.
More tips for watering the garden
- Don't water if you don't have to — too much water is as bad as too little. Measure and keep track of rainfall on a calendar. The ideal for most gardens is an inch every week, but many established plants can easily weather short periods of dryness. If heat and drought are prolonged, water your most valuable plants.
- When you're watering the garden, give infrequent but generous waterings, about an inch once a week. Avoid frequent shallow waterings, which only encourage roots to stay near the soil surface. The more deeply rooted your plants, the more resilient they'll be in a dry period.
- When you water, moisture should penetrate the top five or six inches of soil. Dig a small hole with your hand trowel an hour after you've watered to check. Let the soil surface dry between waterings.
- The best time for watering the garden is early in the morning or in the evening. In the heat of the day — between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. — sun and wind quickly evaporate a significant quantity of water.
- Overhead watering with a sprinkler is best done early in the morning so that leaves can dry off through the day. Foliage that's frequently wet overnight creates the perfect environment for fungal diseases.
- Add organic matter to improve soil's ability to retain moisture. This benefits all soils, but it is especially important for helping sandy soils retain water.
- When planting, whether annuals, perennials, trees or shrubs, dig a hole, fill it with water to allow moisture to be absorbed into the soil. Then put the plant into the moistened hole, firm soil around the roots and water again.
- Once they're in the ground, keep new plants moist, watering generously once a week if it doesn't rain adequately. After six to eight weeks, gradually cut back on watering.
- Mulch bare soil to a depth of two to four inches to help retain moisture.
Article by: Yvonne Cunnington
www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com
Sunday, July 30, 2006
The Sobering Truth
Have you seen the movie An Inconvenient Truth ? I finished watching it about seven hours ago, at about 9 p.m., and I haven't slept for a moment since. If you did the math, that makes it 4 a.m., but in my mind it's high noon.
Most people on the street these days are asking, "Have you seen Al Gore's movie?" Having seen the movie, I now feel that question is unfortunate. Calling Inconvenient Truth "Al Gore's movie" immediately politicizes the question. Forever a polarizing figure in American politics, Gore is, of course, a Democrat. That means all the chest-thumping Republicans in the United States immediately MUST denounce Inconvenient Truth as, well, uncomfortable rhetoric. It's a Democrat's movie, right? To a Republican, it must be full of Bush bashing hyperbole.
If the movie had a flaw, it's probably due to the fact that reminders of Gore's loss of the 2000 election in the Supreme Court were littered throughout the film. During his lectures on global warming upon which the movie is based, Gore does make a few snide comments about "This Administration," which drew sneers from the Bush bashers in the audience.
For Democrats, those were enjoyable moments that added some levity to a film that otherwise punches you in the gut. For Republicans, though, Gore's anti-Bush quips make it easy to dismiss the overriding, unassailable message of the film: WE ARE IN BIG TROUBLE. All of us. Democrats. Republicans. Americans. Chinese. Africans. Everyone.
If we don't change our greenhouse gas emissions -- in the way we drive our cars, heat our homes, power our factories and, yes, care for our lawns and gardens -- millions of people will likely perish. Not in hundreds of years, but in as few as 20 to 50 years. I've never seen a TV show or movie, or read another article, that lays out the danger more clearly than Inconvenient Truth .
I came home angry on many levels. I'm mad at our current president for ignoring and probably even misleading people about global warming. I'm mad at Gore for not making this case better and sooner so that the 2000 election wasn't even close. I'm mad at John Kerry for not even making the issue of global warming a talking point in the 2004 election.
I'm neither Republican or Democrat in my mind when I go to vote. A registered Independent, I've always been for Republican Senators Olympia Snowe and Susan Collins here in Maine, but I've always been sad that Maine Democrat George Mitchell never made a serious run for the presidency.
The point is that -- with the issue of global warming -- your politics shouldn't even matter. Even if a tenth of what Inconvenient Truth portrays is true, how can anyone sit back and stand for it? Weather related tragedies will happen again and again and again and some people will still denounce the reality of global warming, or worse still, they'll accept the reality and not change their behavior.
As adult gardeners, we know global warming is true. How can we not? Our lilacs bloom, on average, a week earlier than they did when we were children. Our insect infestations start sooner and bird migrations happen later.
Do you know that the largest winter industry in Maine 100 years ago was ice harvesting on our lakes and rivers that froze to a depth of several feet? Many winters now, these same lakes and rivers barely freeze.
Most everyone, in fact, does accept that the earth is getting warmer. The debate centers around humans' role in that process. The naysayers would have us believe the warming trend is part of a natural global cycle. Inconvenient Truth spells it out for us, however. The intensity of the warming in just the past 20 years is anything but natural. The explosion of human population -- and our requisite demands on the planet's resources -- make it impossible to conclude that humans don't have an impact. We're killing the planet and ultimately ourselves; we're robbing the futures of our children and grandchildren.
"How can we let this happen?" I wondered aloud to my wife in the parking lot after the movie. I didn't expect an answer after my question hung in the warm summer air for a while.
"Religion . . . ," she said. "Our religion makes us want to believe that we're going to go to heaven anyway, so what happens here on earth isn't really our problem."
It was a quiet ride home.
My first inclination after I see a thought-provoking movie these days is to jump on the Internet and learn more about the subject. After Walk the Line , I devoured everything I could learn about Johnny Cash. After Capote , I set out to re-read In Cold Blood and google everything about Truman Capote. Last night I bolted through the door of my house and dashed for my laptop to read scientific reviews of Inconvenient Truth . In article after article, the movie's conclusion was validated. National Geographic , for example, checked in with Eric Steig, an earth scientist at the University of Washington in Seattle, who saw Inconvenient Truth at a preview screening.
"I was looking for errors," he said. "But nothing much struck me as overblown or wrong."
The magazine cited a study published in Nature in 2004 predicted that climate change could drive more than a million species toward extinction by 2050.
"Climate change now represents at least as great a threat to the number of species surviving on Earth as habitat destruction and modification," said the lead author of that study, Chris Thomas, a conservation biologist at the University of Leeds in the United Kingdom.
With a passion that was lacking in his 2000 election campaign, Al Gore concluded his sobering movie with a profoundly upbeat and empowering message: "We have the tools at hand to fix the problem!" We can do it, he says, in our lifetimes. All we have to do is act, and act NOW. The movie ended with a list of action items, simple things we can all do to make a difference in global warming. We've landed on the moon, he said, and we've wiped certain diseases off the planet. We've made progress on healing the ozone layer, and we can fend off global warming, too.
I'd like to conclude for now, I guess, by re-issuing my gardeners' call to arms that I first published a few months ago. In the heat of the summer, it's information worth reviewing. I'm gratified to know that more than 20 other publications or Internet sites have picked up this article. In some small way, it makes me feel like People, Places & Plants magazine is helping:
With the price of gasoline and natural gas on the rise, most are looking for ways to cut their costs and save energy. If you have a lawn or garden, you may not realize just how much fossil fuels you are using. By knowing where these are used, you can look for ways to reduce consumption. This will reduce your costs, and help the environment.
Each year, a family with a one-third acre lawn will on average:
Consume five gallons of gas for mowing and trimming;
Apply the equivalent of seven gallons for fertilizing;
Burn up to five gallons for watering;
Consume an additional gallon for cleanup.
That's 18 gallons of fuel per household. With 120 million U.S. households, that's the equivalent of almost 2.2 billion gallons of fuel used just for lawn care each year. This does not count other landscaping activities. So just how do we use so much?
Yale University has estimated that the United States uses more than 600 million gallons of gas to mow and trim lawns each year -- about two gallons of gas for every man, woman and child, or five gallons per household. Mowers also consume engine oil in their crankcases, and two-stroke mowers consume oil in their fuel.
In addition to fuel consumption, mowers and outdoor power equipment contribute heavily to air pollution. Operating a typical (4 HP) gasoline-powered lawnmower for one hour produces as much smog-forming hydrocarbons as driving an average car between 100 and 200 miles under average conditions. Gasoline-powered string trimmers are actually more polluting than many lawn mowers. One estimate (mindfully.org) states that "the 20,000,000 small engines sold in the U.S. each year contribute about one tenth of the total U.S. mobile source hydrocarbon emissions, and are the largest single contributor to these non-road emissions." These include power blowers, rakes, and brooms.
Creating synthetic nitrogen for fertilizers requires the heating of natural gas to combine atmospheric nitrogen and hydrogen into ammonia. The amount of natural gas required to make approximately 200 bags of lawn fertilizer would heat your home for a year. Each 40-pound bag contains the fossil-fuel equivalent of approximately 2.5 gallons of gasoline. Transporting these bags of fertilizer from the factory and to your home requires additional fuel.
According to a California study, in many areas -- especially in the West, where water must be moved great distances from reservoirs -- the amount of fuel needed to pump the water is at least equal to the fuel used in mowing.
So what can you do? Here are ten tips to have a "fuel-efficient" landscape.
USE an electric or non-powered push mower. An electric mower maintaining one-third of an acre for a season consumes only $3 of electricity on average. Electric mowers are 75 percent quieter than gas mowers. Push mowers, of course, consume no fuel and make little noise.
SIMILARLY, use traditional hand rakes and brooms instead of power ones and blowers to save fuel, and at the same time reduce air and noise pollution. If you employ a landscape maintenance firm, encourage their use of these too. Minimize the need for string trimmers. Mulch along walks and around structures such as lamp posts to avoid having to trim weeds in these areas.
IF YOU HAVE an old mower, consider replacing it. Newer small engines run much cleaner. EPA emission standards for such engines, to be in effect by 2007, are expected to reduce ground-level ozone emissions by 70 percent or 350,000 tons each year.
REDUCE the area mowed through use of groundcovers. This is especially true in areas with water shortages. Allow parts of large areas to grow, only mowing once or twice a season, creating a natural meadow. You can still mow areas near drives and homes to maintain the more formal manicured effects in such highly visible and high traffic areas.
SAVE rainwater and gray water. Gray water is that water from home use, except from toilets, and can make up from 50 to 80 percent of home waste water. It comes from sinks, showers, and laundry and can be used for irrigating landscapes and lawns.
WATER deeply once per week on average, rather than frequently. Drip irrigation and mulches also conserve water. Using less water saves on energy use, whether you're buying water that has to be pumped, or are paying an electric bill to pump your own.
USE natural, organic fertilizers not derived from fossil fuels.
RECYCLE grass clippings, mow higher and mix 5 percent clover into your lawn seed. All these help recycle nutrients back into the soil. Mulching-type mowers allow you to leave grass clippings on the lawn. If you don't have such a mower, and remove the clippings, add them to compost or use them to mulch gardens.
COMPOST all yard wastes, except for diseased plants and plant parts. They can go into compost piles, saving gasoline hauling such to landfills and recycle centers. If your landscape generates many twigs and other brush, consider buying or renting a home-size brush chipper.
FINALLY, consider landscaping to reduce up to 25 percent of home energy consumption. Foundation plantings can lessen heat loss from buildings. Evergreen windbreaks can reduce heating costs in winter in windy areas. Deciduous shade trees can reduce energy needs for cooling in summer. As Al Gore's movie stated at the end: "Plant trees, plant lots of trees."
I'll add one more pointer . . . go see An Inconvenient Truth , then let me know what you think...
-Paul Tukey: July 30, 2006.
Most people on the street these days are asking, "Have you seen Al Gore's movie?" Having seen the movie, I now feel that question is unfortunate. Calling Inconvenient Truth "Al Gore's movie" immediately politicizes the question. Forever a polarizing figure in American politics, Gore is, of course, a Democrat. That means all the chest-thumping Republicans in the United States immediately MUST denounce Inconvenient Truth as, well, uncomfortable rhetoric. It's a Democrat's movie, right? To a Republican, it must be full of Bush bashing hyperbole.
If the movie had a flaw, it's probably due to the fact that reminders of Gore's loss of the 2000 election in the Supreme Court were littered throughout the film. During his lectures on global warming upon which the movie is based, Gore does make a few snide comments about "This Administration," which drew sneers from the Bush bashers in the audience.
For Democrats, those were enjoyable moments that added some levity to a film that otherwise punches you in the gut. For Republicans, though, Gore's anti-Bush quips make it easy to dismiss the overriding, unassailable message of the film: WE ARE IN BIG TROUBLE. All of us. Democrats. Republicans. Americans. Chinese. Africans. Everyone.
If we don't change our greenhouse gas emissions -- in the way we drive our cars, heat our homes, power our factories and, yes, care for our lawns and gardens -- millions of people will likely perish. Not in hundreds of years, but in as few as 20 to 50 years. I've never seen a TV show or movie, or read another article, that lays out the danger more clearly than Inconvenient Truth .
I came home angry on many levels. I'm mad at our current president for ignoring and probably even misleading people about global warming. I'm mad at Gore for not making this case better and sooner so that the 2000 election wasn't even close. I'm mad at John Kerry for not even making the issue of global warming a talking point in the 2004 election.
I'm neither Republican or Democrat in my mind when I go to vote. A registered Independent, I've always been for Republican Senators Olympia Snowe and Susan Collins here in Maine, but I've always been sad that Maine Democrat George Mitchell never made a serious run for the presidency.
The point is that -- with the issue of global warming -- your politics shouldn't even matter. Even if a tenth of what Inconvenient Truth portrays is true, how can anyone sit back and stand for it? Weather related tragedies will happen again and again and again and some people will still denounce the reality of global warming, or worse still, they'll accept the reality and not change their behavior.
As adult gardeners, we know global warming is true. How can we not? Our lilacs bloom, on average, a week earlier than they did when we were children. Our insect infestations start sooner and bird migrations happen later.
Do you know that the largest winter industry in Maine 100 years ago was ice harvesting on our lakes and rivers that froze to a depth of several feet? Many winters now, these same lakes and rivers barely freeze.
Most everyone, in fact, does accept that the earth is getting warmer. The debate centers around humans' role in that process. The naysayers would have us believe the warming trend is part of a natural global cycle. Inconvenient Truth spells it out for us, however. The intensity of the warming in just the past 20 years is anything but natural. The explosion of human population -- and our requisite demands on the planet's resources -- make it impossible to conclude that humans don't have an impact. We're killing the planet and ultimately ourselves; we're robbing the futures of our children and grandchildren.
"How can we let this happen?" I wondered aloud to my wife in the parking lot after the movie. I didn't expect an answer after my question hung in the warm summer air for a while.
"Religion . . . ," she said. "Our religion makes us want to believe that we're going to go to heaven anyway, so what happens here on earth isn't really our problem."
It was a quiet ride home.
My first inclination after I see a thought-provoking movie these days is to jump on the Internet and learn more about the subject. After Walk the Line , I devoured everything I could learn about Johnny Cash. After Capote , I set out to re-read In Cold Blood and google everything about Truman Capote. Last night I bolted through the door of my house and dashed for my laptop to read scientific reviews of Inconvenient Truth . In article after article, the movie's conclusion was validated. National Geographic , for example, checked in with Eric Steig, an earth scientist at the University of Washington in Seattle, who saw Inconvenient Truth at a preview screening.
"I was looking for errors," he said. "But nothing much struck me as overblown or wrong."
The magazine cited a study published in Nature in 2004 predicted that climate change could drive more than a million species toward extinction by 2050.
"Climate change now represents at least as great a threat to the number of species surviving on Earth as habitat destruction and modification," said the lead author of that study, Chris Thomas, a conservation biologist at the University of Leeds in the United Kingdom.
With a passion that was lacking in his 2000 election campaign, Al Gore concluded his sobering movie with a profoundly upbeat and empowering message: "We have the tools at hand to fix the problem!" We can do it, he says, in our lifetimes. All we have to do is act, and act NOW. The movie ended with a list of action items, simple things we can all do to make a difference in global warming. We've landed on the moon, he said, and we've wiped certain diseases off the planet. We've made progress on healing the ozone layer, and we can fend off global warming, too.
I'd like to conclude for now, I guess, by re-issuing my gardeners' call to arms that I first published a few months ago. In the heat of the summer, it's information worth reviewing. I'm gratified to know that more than 20 other publications or Internet sites have picked up this article. In some small way, it makes me feel like People, Places & Plants magazine is helping:
With the price of gasoline and natural gas on the rise, most are looking for ways to cut their costs and save energy. If you have a lawn or garden, you may not realize just how much fossil fuels you are using. By knowing where these are used, you can look for ways to reduce consumption. This will reduce your costs, and help the environment.
Each year, a family with a one-third acre lawn will on average:
Consume five gallons of gas for mowing and trimming;
Apply the equivalent of seven gallons for fertilizing;
Burn up to five gallons for watering;
Consume an additional gallon for cleanup.
That's 18 gallons of fuel per household. With 120 million U.S. households, that's the equivalent of almost 2.2 billion gallons of fuel used just for lawn care each year. This does not count other landscaping activities. So just how do we use so much?
Yale University has estimated that the United States uses more than 600 million gallons of gas to mow and trim lawns each year -- about two gallons of gas for every man, woman and child, or five gallons per household. Mowers also consume engine oil in their crankcases, and two-stroke mowers consume oil in their fuel.
In addition to fuel consumption, mowers and outdoor power equipment contribute heavily to air pollution. Operating a typical (4 HP) gasoline-powered lawnmower for one hour produces as much smog-forming hydrocarbons as driving an average car between 100 and 200 miles under average conditions. Gasoline-powered string trimmers are actually more polluting than many lawn mowers. One estimate (mindfully.org) states that "the 20,000,000 small engines sold in the U.S. each year contribute about one tenth of the total U.S. mobile source hydrocarbon emissions, and are the largest single contributor to these non-road emissions." These include power blowers, rakes, and brooms.
Creating synthetic nitrogen for fertilizers requires the heating of natural gas to combine atmospheric nitrogen and hydrogen into ammonia. The amount of natural gas required to make approximately 200 bags of lawn fertilizer would heat your home for a year. Each 40-pound bag contains the fossil-fuel equivalent of approximately 2.5 gallons of gasoline. Transporting these bags of fertilizer from the factory and to your home requires additional fuel.
According to a California study, in many areas -- especially in the West, where water must be moved great distances from reservoirs -- the amount of fuel needed to pump the water is at least equal to the fuel used in mowing.
So what can you do? Here are ten tips to have a "fuel-efficient" landscape.
USE an electric or non-powered push mower. An electric mower maintaining one-third of an acre for a season consumes only $3 of electricity on average. Electric mowers are 75 percent quieter than gas mowers. Push mowers, of course, consume no fuel and make little noise.
SIMILARLY, use traditional hand rakes and brooms instead of power ones and blowers to save fuel, and at the same time reduce air and noise pollution. If you employ a landscape maintenance firm, encourage their use of these too. Minimize the need for string trimmers. Mulch along walks and around structures such as lamp posts to avoid having to trim weeds in these areas.
IF YOU HAVE an old mower, consider replacing it. Newer small engines run much cleaner. EPA emission standards for such engines, to be in effect by 2007, are expected to reduce ground-level ozone emissions by 70 percent or 350,000 tons each year.
REDUCE the area mowed through use of groundcovers. This is especially true in areas with water shortages. Allow parts of large areas to grow, only mowing once or twice a season, creating a natural meadow. You can still mow areas near drives and homes to maintain the more formal manicured effects in such highly visible and high traffic areas.
SAVE rainwater and gray water. Gray water is that water from home use, except from toilets, and can make up from 50 to 80 percent of home waste water. It comes from sinks, showers, and laundry and can be used for irrigating landscapes and lawns.
WATER deeply once per week on average, rather than frequently. Drip irrigation and mulches also conserve water. Using less water saves on energy use, whether you're buying water that has to be pumped, or are paying an electric bill to pump your own.
USE natural, organic fertilizers not derived from fossil fuels.
RECYCLE grass clippings, mow higher and mix 5 percent clover into your lawn seed. All these help recycle nutrients back into the soil. Mulching-type mowers allow you to leave grass clippings on the lawn. If you don't have such a mower, and remove the clippings, add them to compost or use them to mulch gardens.
COMPOST all yard wastes, except for diseased plants and plant parts. They can go into compost piles, saving gasoline hauling such to landfills and recycle centers. If your landscape generates many twigs and other brush, consider buying or renting a home-size brush chipper.
FINALLY, consider landscaping to reduce up to 25 percent of home energy consumption. Foundation plantings can lessen heat loss from buildings. Evergreen windbreaks can reduce heating costs in winter in windy areas. Deciduous shade trees can reduce energy needs for cooling in summer. As Al Gore's movie stated at the end: "Plant trees, plant lots of trees."
I'll add one more pointer . . . go see An Inconvenient Truth , then let me know what you think...
-Paul Tukey: July 30, 2006.
Sunday, July 09, 2006
Drought Tolerant , Summer Perennials
Fran Sorin, a garden designer, writer and nationally known gardening expert is changing how people perceive gardening. Her multi-media exposure reflects her philosophy that, just like exercising regularly or following a wholesome diet, gardening is necessary for living a healthier life. http://fransorin.com/book/
Below is a list of five perennials that can be planted during mid-summer and that are promised to be drought resistant (if you water consistently for the first weeks until the plant becomes adjusted to its new home).
1. Achillea specimens (Yarrow) has grey or green fernlike leaves with daisy like flowerheads that continue to bloom throughout the summer and fall. Comes in a variety of colors including: white, yellow, orange, red and pink. Depending on the species (over 85), they can be grown anywhere from Zone 3- 9. Check the species to make sure it thrives in your zone. Prefers full sun in an open space but will survive in a variety of conditions.
2. Coreopsis specimens (Tickseed) From 80-100 species of annuals and perennials that are part of the Asteraceae family. They have daisy like yellow or pink flowerheads that grow on long stalks and are attractive to bees. Long blooming period, great for cut flowers. A rapid spreader. Check species and your zone to make sure it thrives in your climate. Some species do well from Zone 3- 9. Grow in full sun or partial shade. Deadhead for continuous bloom.
3. Hemerocallis (Daylilies) These are one of the great workhorses of the garden. Daylilies are usually clump forming with thin, elongated leaves. Flowers come in a variety of forms and range in color from white to pink to
orange to yellow to a deep burgundy. Many daylilies are repeat blooming. Although they are rapid spreaders, they look most impressive when planted in drifts. They do well in sun, but will do just fine in partial shade. Hardy
in Zones 3-10.
4. Lavandula (Lavender) a group of aromatic shrubs and perennials that are grown mainly for their lavender spiked flowers full of fragrance which appeal to bees because of their high level of nectar. Does well in moderately fertile soil in full sun. Known to be grown abundantly in Mediterranean climates. Great for hillside plantings, border plantings and part of a perennial border. Leaves and flowerheads can be used as flowers, sachet and potpourri. Depending on the species, can be grown from Zones 5-9.
5. Sedum species (Stonecrop) Over 400 species of annuals and perennials that areusually succulent. The often fleshy and have 5 petaled flowers that bloom in the summer and the fall. Grow in fertile, well drained, neutral to a bit alkaline soil in full sun. Even when the flower is not in bloom in spring and early summer, the leaves and shape (fairly low growing mound) of the sedum offer an unusual texture and color to the mixed border or rock garden. Will continue to bloom throughout the fall season. Looks beautiful in the fall garden when combined with salvias, asters and fall blooming perennial grasses. Depending on species can thrive from Zones 5-9.
Article By Fran Sorin
Below is a list of five perennials that can be planted during mid-summer and that are promised to be drought resistant (if you water consistently for the first weeks until the plant becomes adjusted to its new home).
1. Achillea specimens (Yarrow) has grey or green fernlike leaves with daisy like flowerheads that continue to bloom throughout the summer and fall. Comes in a variety of colors including: white, yellow, orange, red and pink. Depending on the species (over 85), they can be grown anywhere from Zone 3- 9. Check the species to make sure it thrives in your zone. Prefers full sun in an open space but will survive in a variety of conditions.
2. Coreopsis specimens (Tickseed) From 80-100 species of annuals and perennials that are part of the Asteraceae family. They have daisy like yellow or pink flowerheads that grow on long stalks and are attractive to bees. Long blooming period, great for cut flowers. A rapid spreader. Check species and your zone to make sure it thrives in your climate. Some species do well from Zone 3- 9. Grow in full sun or partial shade. Deadhead for continuous bloom.
3. Hemerocallis (Daylilies) These are one of the great workhorses of the garden. Daylilies are usually clump forming with thin, elongated leaves. Flowers come in a variety of forms and range in color from white to pink to
orange to yellow to a deep burgundy. Many daylilies are repeat blooming. Although they are rapid spreaders, they look most impressive when planted in drifts. They do well in sun, but will do just fine in partial shade. Hardy
in Zones 3-10.
4. Lavandula (Lavender) a group of aromatic shrubs and perennials that are grown mainly for their lavender spiked flowers full of fragrance which appeal to bees because of their high level of nectar. Does well in moderately fertile soil in full sun. Known to be grown abundantly in Mediterranean climates. Great for hillside plantings, border plantings and part of a perennial border. Leaves and flowerheads can be used as flowers, sachet and potpourri. Depending on the species, can be grown from Zones 5-9.
5. Sedum species (Stonecrop) Over 400 species of annuals and perennials that areusually succulent. The often fleshy and have 5 petaled flowers that bloom in the summer and the fall. Grow in fertile, well drained, neutral to a bit alkaline soil in full sun. Even when the flower is not in bloom in spring and early summer, the leaves and shape (fairly low growing mound) of the sedum offer an unusual texture and color to the mixed border or rock garden. Will continue to bloom throughout the fall season. Looks beautiful in the fall garden when combined with salvias, asters and fall blooming perennial grasses. Depending on species can thrive from Zones 5-9.
Article By Fran Sorin
BUILDING A DREAM: What You Should Know Before You Build or Remodel Your Home
BUILDING A DREAM is the one online book every homeowner or contractor should read before remodeling or building a new home. Author and builder Greg Lowitz steps through key phases of home construction, from foundation and basement drainage to selecting windows. While many books discuss general building techniques, few point out the many tradeoffs you’ll face during construction. These tradeoffs arise because there is more than one way to build and budgets are rarely unlimited. During the course of construction, you’ll make countless decisions that affect your project cost. Using real-world experience and examples, you’ll discover hundreds of precious tips and recommendations rarely found in any one source - tips that will put your project on a solid footing, helping you to build it right from the start. Enjoy all 15 online chapters for one low price! PLEASE NOTE: BUILDING A DREAM IS ONLY AVAILABLE ONLINE. WE DO NOT SHIP HARDCOPIES.
Details from Builders Websource
www.builderswebsource.com
Details from Builders Websource
www.builderswebsource.com
Planting a garden under a tree can be challenging but it is not impossible.
Planting a garden under a tree can be challenging but it is not impossible. Doing some pre-garden planning will assist you in creating a garden that is quite pleasant to behold.
No matter where you live, your "climate zone", or what type of tree you have there are a few basic challenges in creating a flowerbed around a tree. Aside from the shade, you also have to deal with tree roots and the amount of moisture your tree needs to stay healthy.
A well-established tree will have large well-established roots. This narrows your options for a flower garden. Some trees don't like an additional 3 feet of soiled added near its trunk. Some trees, like Oak, do not like regular watering and some trees are "evergreen". This means even more shade and a constant shedding of dry leaves or needles.
Knowing the best conditions specific to your tree will be vital to your success. This will require a trip to a garden center or a bookstore. You also need to take some time looking at the shade pattern under your tree. Does your tree shed all its leaves in the winter? Is there an area under the tree that receives more sun during certain times of the day? Do you have areas of deep shade and areas of partial shade?
If you can afford a good tree trimming service, you can select certain branches of which removal will provide better sun. Many gardeners are amazed at what a little trimming and shaping can do to improve the tree's aesthetics as well as provide more sunlight to dapple the garden.
Your next step is to find areas of planting around the tree roots. Dampen the soil around the tree and gently use a shovel to find any areas that are relatively free of large roots. You may have to get on your hands and knees and use a small shovel. Cutting large roots can be damaging to the tree and its ability to resist strong winds. Smaller, spindly roots can be cut without harm. A tree trimming service may help you with this at the time you choose to trim branches. Or you can patiently work with the areas around the tree, which do allow you to shovel holes in the soil. Dig the holes as deep and wide as possible.
Now you are ready to select some pots and plant containers that will fit in the holes you have dug. To maximize your space, you will need, at least, several pots of the same size. For example, if one of your holes will accommodate an 8-inch pot, buy another just like it. Set the second pot aside, as you will use it later at the change of season. For unusual and creative effect, you can go to a thrift store or garage sale and select some old gravy boats, cooking pots, or even old shoes. This is where you can create a theme to your garden.
Whatever you use as a container will need drainage, so use a nail, carefully to poke a hole. If your nickel priced gravy boat splits don't worry, it is still usable in your garden. You can use a small groundcover plant such as creeping thyme and plant it in the pieces of the gravy boat. Then use some dirt and sphagnum moss to pack around the item so it is partially buried.
With your garden area prepared and having knowledge of your shades and sunlight areas, you are ready to start selecting your plants and flowers. You have a wide variety of categories from which to choose. There are some limitations but many Ferns, Bulbs, ornamental grasses, flowering ground cover, and flowers will thrive in shade to partial shade. Tall Biannuals like Foxglove go well with Perennial fern and produce stunning stalks of color. Wax begonias and Primrose come back year after year, and some annuals provide fun variety with each season. Your garden store will assist you in making the best selections.
Plants that you placed in your special containers, like the gravy boat, will need to be perennials, as it will be difficult to remove the container for re-planting. However, the second pot that you purchased and set aside can be planted up with a fresh variety of seasonal annuals. Simply dampen the soil around the pot under the tree, lift and replace. This is especially great with bulbs. As the bulbs die back, you simply lift the entire pot out of the ground and replace with a same-size pot with fresh seasonal bloomers. You can set the pot of bulbs away from site and leave them until autumn. Then put them back under the tree. The tree roots will grow around the pots, holding the hole open so you can easily slip a new pot in the same spot. You can save on water, because instead of having water stream away from your plants, you simply water the pot. This method works well with Oak trees that can develop rot with too much water around their roots in the summertime. Since the pots are buried or partially buried in the soil, it allows the flowers and plants to retain moisture. Perennials will find their own root room through the drainage holes in your pots and get the additional soil nutrients from the tree. You can hide any unappealing mechanics of your garden, such as pot lips, by banking soil and sphagnum moss. Eventually groundcover will provide such coverage. In addition to all this, you still get to go to the garden center, when the urge hits, and get an annual or six-pack and replace one of your pots under the tree.
Written by Laurie Kennabrew
Laurie Kennabrew has worked in the profession of Landscaping, off and on for over 20 years.
No matter where you live, your "climate zone", or what type of tree you have there are a few basic challenges in creating a flowerbed around a tree. Aside from the shade, you also have to deal with tree roots and the amount of moisture your tree needs to stay healthy.
A well-established tree will have large well-established roots. This narrows your options for a flower garden. Some trees don't like an additional 3 feet of soiled added near its trunk. Some trees, like Oak, do not like regular watering and some trees are "evergreen". This means even more shade and a constant shedding of dry leaves or needles.
Knowing the best conditions specific to your tree will be vital to your success. This will require a trip to a garden center or a bookstore. You also need to take some time looking at the shade pattern under your tree. Does your tree shed all its leaves in the winter? Is there an area under the tree that receives more sun during certain times of the day? Do you have areas of deep shade and areas of partial shade?
If you can afford a good tree trimming service, you can select certain branches of which removal will provide better sun. Many gardeners are amazed at what a little trimming and shaping can do to improve the tree's aesthetics as well as provide more sunlight to dapple the garden.
Your next step is to find areas of planting around the tree roots. Dampen the soil around the tree and gently use a shovel to find any areas that are relatively free of large roots. You may have to get on your hands and knees and use a small shovel. Cutting large roots can be damaging to the tree and its ability to resist strong winds. Smaller, spindly roots can be cut without harm. A tree trimming service may help you with this at the time you choose to trim branches. Or you can patiently work with the areas around the tree, which do allow you to shovel holes in the soil. Dig the holes as deep and wide as possible.
Now you are ready to select some pots and plant containers that will fit in the holes you have dug. To maximize your space, you will need, at least, several pots of the same size. For example, if one of your holes will accommodate an 8-inch pot, buy another just like it. Set the second pot aside, as you will use it later at the change of season. For unusual and creative effect, you can go to a thrift store or garage sale and select some old gravy boats, cooking pots, or even old shoes. This is where you can create a theme to your garden.
Whatever you use as a container will need drainage, so use a nail, carefully to poke a hole. If your nickel priced gravy boat splits don't worry, it is still usable in your garden. You can use a small groundcover plant such as creeping thyme and plant it in the pieces of the gravy boat. Then use some dirt and sphagnum moss to pack around the item so it is partially buried.
With your garden area prepared and having knowledge of your shades and sunlight areas, you are ready to start selecting your plants and flowers. You have a wide variety of categories from which to choose. There are some limitations but many Ferns, Bulbs, ornamental grasses, flowering ground cover, and flowers will thrive in shade to partial shade. Tall Biannuals like Foxglove go well with Perennial fern and produce stunning stalks of color. Wax begonias and Primrose come back year after year, and some annuals provide fun variety with each season. Your garden store will assist you in making the best selections.
Plants that you placed in your special containers, like the gravy boat, will need to be perennials, as it will be difficult to remove the container for re-planting. However, the second pot that you purchased and set aside can be planted up with a fresh variety of seasonal annuals. Simply dampen the soil around the pot under the tree, lift and replace. This is especially great with bulbs. As the bulbs die back, you simply lift the entire pot out of the ground and replace with a same-size pot with fresh seasonal bloomers. You can set the pot of bulbs away from site and leave them until autumn. Then put them back under the tree. The tree roots will grow around the pots, holding the hole open so you can easily slip a new pot in the same spot. You can save on water, because instead of having water stream away from your plants, you simply water the pot. This method works well with Oak trees that can develop rot with too much water around their roots in the summertime. Since the pots are buried or partially buried in the soil, it allows the flowers and plants to retain moisture. Perennials will find their own root room through the drainage holes in your pots and get the additional soil nutrients from the tree. You can hide any unappealing mechanics of your garden, such as pot lips, by banking soil and sphagnum moss. Eventually groundcover will provide such coverage. In addition to all this, you still get to go to the garden center, when the urge hits, and get an annual or six-pack and replace one of your pots under the tree.
Written by Laurie Kennabrew
Laurie Kennabrew has worked in the profession of Landscaping, off and on for over 20 years.
Wednesday, June 21, 2006
Device Offers Reliable Deer Protection
We've lived dangerously this spring in the garden. Not having seen as much deer activity as usual, we left caution in the potting shed and allowed our vegetable garden to grow at its peril.
Last week, of course, we paid the price. A big chunk of my wife's pea crop was devoured. Unlike other years, though, we didn't panic --because we knew we had a reliable weapon right inside that shed. We popped it out, put in a fresh battery, and can now sleep soundly at night again.
The next issue of the magazine, at the printer at the moment and due in your mailbox by mid July, will have more about our secret weapon. But for anyone else having deer issues right now, I wanted to let you know.
Known as the ScareCrow sprinkler, the secret to the device is a motion sensor that can scan an area about 50 feet out from the sprinkler in a span of about 100 degrees, or about 20 feet in each direction. When the motion sensor "sees" a critter, a pulsating sprinkler head shoots water across the entire area. Sounding a bit like a loud rattlesnake, the ScareCrow reliably kept my unfenced garden free of deer and groundhogs all last season. If the sound doesn't frighten away the animals -- like our neighbor's cat, for example -- it annoys them with the heavy stream of water.
The only disclaimer to make is that the device takes some getting used to, both day and night. The motion sensor tends to see everything, including small birds that land on the tops of bean poles, so the ScareCrow goes off frequently and -- for the first few nights last year that we turned it on -- made us jump out of bed to look for deer each time it went off. It also senses motion 24 hours a day, so if you venture into the garden and forget the device is in place, you're going to get really wet.
All you need to activate the ScareCrow is a battery and a charged water hose. Purchase a good, quality hose that can withstand being in the sun all summer long. Make sure your hose couplings are tight so that no water is wasted from leaking.
After that, you should eventually be able to sleep tight knowing your plants are protected.
If you type "ScareCrow sprinkler" into Google, you'll find all sorts of companies selling the product.
CHECK OUT the numerous resources for education, such as www.melna.org or www.rodaleinstitute.org . For video tips specific to organic lawn care, you can now visit www.safelawns.org.
-Paul Tukey: June 21, 2006.
Last week, of course, we paid the price. A big chunk of my wife's pea crop was devoured. Unlike other years, though, we didn't panic --because we knew we had a reliable weapon right inside that shed. We popped it out, put in a fresh battery, and can now sleep soundly at night again.
The next issue of the magazine, at the printer at the moment and due in your mailbox by mid July, will have more about our secret weapon. But for anyone else having deer issues right now, I wanted to let you know.
Known as the ScareCrow sprinkler, the secret to the device is a motion sensor that can scan an area about 50 feet out from the sprinkler in a span of about 100 degrees, or about 20 feet in each direction. When the motion sensor "sees" a critter, a pulsating sprinkler head shoots water across the entire area. Sounding a bit like a loud rattlesnake, the ScareCrow reliably kept my unfenced garden free of deer and groundhogs all last season. If the sound doesn't frighten away the animals -- like our neighbor's cat, for example -- it annoys them with the heavy stream of water.
The only disclaimer to make is that the device takes some getting used to, both day and night. The motion sensor tends to see everything, including small birds that land on the tops of bean poles, so the ScareCrow goes off frequently and -- for the first few nights last year that we turned it on -- made us jump out of bed to look for deer each time it went off. It also senses motion 24 hours a day, so if you venture into the garden and forget the device is in place, you're going to get really wet.
All you need to activate the ScareCrow is a battery and a charged water hose. Purchase a good, quality hose that can withstand being in the sun all summer long. Make sure your hose couplings are tight so that no water is wasted from leaking.
After that, you should eventually be able to sleep tight knowing your plants are protected.
If you type "ScareCrow sprinkler" into Google, you'll find all sorts of companies selling the product.
CHECK OUT the numerous resources for education, such as www.melna.org or www.rodaleinstitute.org . For video tips specific to organic lawn care, you can now visit www.safelawns.org.
-Paul Tukey: June 21, 2006.
Tuesday, June 06, 2006
The Old Farmer's Almanac: June Gardening Tips
- Any bedding plants you find for sale can safely be planted outdoors in beds, boxes, or containers.
- If you long for a hanging basket filled with blossoms, compare prices on different-size plants. It may be more economical to buy several small plants and combine them yourself rather than pay for one large plant.
- Starting this month, keep hanging plants such as fuchsias well watered and out of direct sun, or their leaves will burn.
- Mulch around trees to create a safe zone where your mower won't go. Nicking a tree trunk can seriously damage even a well-established tree.
- Mow your lawn according to the needs of the grass, not the calendar. Grass thickens and provides better cover when regularly clipped at the proper height.
- Prune rhododendrons after they flower. On young and old plants, snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems.
Courtesy of The Old Farmer’s Almanac® Dublin, NH www.almanac.com.
The Old Farmer's Almanac: Calender
Full Strawberry Moon (June 11)
The Algonquin tribes knew this Moon as a time to gather ripening strawberries.
Flag Day (June 14)
What we know fondly as the "Stars and Stripes" was adopted by the Continental Congress as the official American flag on June 14, 1777, in the midst of the Revolutionary War. Colonial troops fought under many different flags with various symbols and slogans -- rattlesnakes, pine trees, eagles, "Don't Tread on Me," "Liberty or Death," and "Conquer or Die," to name a few. The first flag had 13 stars on a blue field and 13 alternating red and white stripes for the 13 original colonies. Now there are 50 stars, one for each state in the Union, but the 13 stripes remain. Flag Day was first celebrated in 1877, on the flag's 100th birthday.
Read about some Do's and Don'ts for the U.S. flag.
Father's Day (June 18)
Like Mother's Day, Father's Day has a modern origin. The idea came to Mrs. John Dodd as she listened to a Mother's Day sermon in 1910. Her father, William Smart, had raised his children alone on his Washington farm after his wife died giving birth to their sixth child. Mrs. Dodd proposed to the Spokane Ministerial Association and the YMCA that they celebrate a "father's day" on June 5, her father's birthday. The idea received strong support, but the good ministers of Spokane asked that the day be changed to give them extra time to prepare sermons on the unexplored subject of fathers. The first Father's Day was observed on June 19, 1910, in Spokane, and soon other towns had their own celebrations. In spite of widespread support, Father's Day did not become a permanent national holiday until 1972, when President Richard Nixon signed a law declaring that it be celebrated annually on the third Sunday in June.
Send an Almanac E-card to Dad to celebrate this special day.
Courtesy of The Old Farmer’s Almanac® Dublin, NH www.almanac.com.
The Algonquin tribes knew this Moon as a time to gather ripening strawberries.
Flag Day (June 14)
What we know fondly as the "Stars and Stripes" was adopted by the Continental Congress as the official American flag on June 14, 1777, in the midst of the Revolutionary War. Colonial troops fought under many different flags with various symbols and slogans -- rattlesnakes, pine trees, eagles, "Don't Tread on Me," "Liberty or Death," and "Conquer or Die," to name a few. The first flag had 13 stars on a blue field and 13 alternating red and white stripes for the 13 original colonies. Now there are 50 stars, one for each state in the Union, but the 13 stripes remain. Flag Day was first celebrated in 1877, on the flag's 100th birthday.
Read about some Do's and Don'ts for the U.S. flag.
Father's Day (June 18)
Like Mother's Day, Father's Day has a modern origin. The idea came to Mrs. John Dodd as she listened to a Mother's Day sermon in 1910. Her father, William Smart, had raised his children alone on his Washington farm after his wife died giving birth to their sixth child. Mrs. Dodd proposed to the Spokane Ministerial Association and the YMCA that they celebrate a "father's day" on June 5, her father's birthday. The idea received strong support, but the good ministers of Spokane asked that the day be changed to give them extra time to prepare sermons on the unexplored subject of fathers. The first Father's Day was observed on June 19, 1910, in Spokane, and soon other towns had their own celebrations. In spite of widespread support, Father's Day did not become a permanent national holiday until 1972, when President Richard Nixon signed a law declaring that it be celebrated annually on the third Sunday in June.
Send an Almanac E-card to Dad to celebrate this special day.
Courtesy of The Old Farmer’s Almanac® Dublin, NH www.almanac.com.
Saturday, June 03, 2006
Gardening Book Reviews
BOOKS ON GARDENING make fine friends for those with a green thumb -- but who has time to sort through the hundreds of titles on the shelves? The editors of the Gardener's Companion have carefully culled the finest volumes for reading or reference and offer brief reviews. On days when you just can't get outside, why not curl up with one of the following books and plan what you'll do next in your garden?
- Advice For Beginners
- Bulbs
- Cook's Gardens
- Crafts
- Flowers
- Gardeners
- Garden Tours
- Herbs
- Landscape/Design
- Nature
- Shrubs/Trees
Friday, June 02, 2006
Fountain Planting
- Don't let peripheral plantings compete with the house for emphasis -- the eye is to be drawn to the house. Borders are incidental to the central focal point of the landscape, which is the house.
- Frame and mass at the edges, to leave the center of the place open. Keep the largest plantings off to the side.
- Avoid scatter -- no flower beds in the middle of lawns, no brilliantly colored plants without a background of green foliage to set them off.
- Make flowers incidental, to supply color and finish. The lawn and the mass plantings are the main pieces of the plan. Flower sparingly.
- Consider position carefully. Far more important than the right choice of plant is its correct position with reference to other plants and to structures.
Monday, May 22, 2006
Organics: Not Just a Product-for-Product Swap
After my recent tip on the skyrocketing costs of synthetic fertilizers, many of you contacted me to say you would switch to organic gardening if you only knew how. Many folks want to know what products to purchase to replace the toxic chemicals they've been using for much of their gardening lives.
On one hand, the answers are far from simple. Organic gardening can take years, even a lifetime, to master. Eliot Coleman from Harborside, Maine, probably the best organic gardener I know, says he still learns new things every gardening season.
On the other hand, organic gardening is simple to understand if you remember one thing: The soil is alive and your gardening practices should do everything possible to nurture that life.
Last week, I traveled to Long Island to a Soil Food Web laboratory run by soil scientist Paul Wagner. We spent an evening over a microscope looking at side-by-side samples of soil treated with pesticides and synthetic fertilizer vs. soil that has been tended organically. The differences were stunning. The natural soil was teeming with activity from healthy microorganisms of all shapes and sizes. The chemical soil looked like a dead zone, with only a few microorganisms that are known to cause damage to plants.
"When you begin to understand these differences and then you see the results you can get in your lawn and garden with organics, you wonder why we ever started using chemicals in the first place," said Wagner, who looks at soil samples day in and day out.
The next issue of People, Places & Plants will showcase some of the photography from that trip, along with information about brewing your own compost tea, which is emerging as one of the keys to a successful transition to a natural garden.
In the meantime, here are a few tenets of organic gardening to remember:
SWITCHING to organic gardening is not a product-for-product swap from chemical gardening.
ORGANIC gardening strives to obtain a balance with nature, rather than overriding nature.
USING compost is the cornerstone to any organic program.
PURCHASE compost in bulk when possible, from as local a source as possible.
REMEMBER that large numbers of weeds and pests are indicators that either the soil is poor, or that you're trying to grow the wrong plant in that soil.
ANY GARDENING should begin with a soil test, either from your state Cooperative Extension Service or a private soil lab such as the Soil Food Web laboratory run by Paul Wagner.
CHECK OUT the numerous resources for education, such as www.melna.org or www.rodaleinstitute.org. For video tips specific to organic lawn care, you can now visit www.safelawns.org.
Be sure to let us know what you think after viewing the video. Send me an email at
Paul Tukey at paul@ppplants.com.
-Paul Tukey: May 22, 2006.
On one hand, the answers are far from simple. Organic gardening can take years, even a lifetime, to master. Eliot Coleman from Harborside, Maine, probably the best organic gardener I know, says he still learns new things every gardening season.
On the other hand, organic gardening is simple to understand if you remember one thing: The soil is alive and your gardening practices should do everything possible to nurture that life.
Last week, I traveled to Long Island to a Soil Food Web laboratory run by soil scientist Paul Wagner. We spent an evening over a microscope looking at side-by-side samples of soil treated with pesticides and synthetic fertilizer vs. soil that has been tended organically. The differences were stunning. The natural soil was teeming with activity from healthy microorganisms of all shapes and sizes. The chemical soil looked like a dead zone, with only a few microorganisms that are known to cause damage to plants.
"When you begin to understand these differences and then you see the results you can get in your lawn and garden with organics, you wonder why we ever started using chemicals in the first place," said Wagner, who looks at soil samples day in and day out.
The next issue of People, Places & Plants will showcase some of the photography from that trip, along with information about brewing your own compost tea, which is emerging as one of the keys to a successful transition to a natural garden.
In the meantime, here are a few tenets of organic gardening to remember:
SWITCHING to organic gardening is not a product-for-product swap from chemical gardening.
ORGANIC gardening strives to obtain a balance with nature, rather than overriding nature.
USING compost is the cornerstone to any organic program.
PURCHASE compost in bulk when possible, from as local a source as possible.
REMEMBER that large numbers of weeds and pests are indicators that either the soil is poor, or that you're trying to grow the wrong plant in that soil.
ANY GARDENING should begin with a soil test, either from your state Cooperative Extension Service or a private soil lab such as the Soil Food Web laboratory run by Paul Wagner.
CHECK OUT the numerous resources for education, such as www.melna.org or www.rodaleinstitute.org. For video tips specific to organic lawn care, you can now visit www.safelawns.org.
Be sure to let us know what you think after viewing the video. Send me an email at
Paul Tukey at paul@ppplants.com.
-Paul Tukey: May 22, 2006.
Wednesday, May 17, 2006
Slug Alert
Spring was going along so well here in the Northeast. We could easily work the vegetable garden in March and April. By the time the first significant rain came in early May, we welcomed a gray day to recharge the water table before we planted the entire garden.
The spring of 2005 seemed like a distant memory. You recall last spring, right? All but one day of the month was rainy. Whatever we could get into the ground was quickly snatched up by eager fat slugs, which just love damp, cool weather.
Now, of course, we're back in exactly the same rainy pattern as last May. Many of our readers in New England have far worse problems than slugs right now. Streets and basements are literally under water and life as they know it has been disrupted indefinitely. For many farmers, the first plantings of crops have washed away.
For gardeners, that certainly means that slugs will be waiting when you are able to venture into the flowers and vegetables. For this week's Tip of the Week, we thought it best to dust off the slug article from last season. Many of you will need the information.
WATERING
While we can't do anything about the rain, we can adjust our own watering schedule. Slugs do most damage in the evening and at night and the drier we can keep the plants and soil, the better. If you water in the morning the surface soil will be dry by evening on most sunny days. This one change can greatly reduce slug damage.
MULCH
What you place around your plants can significantly alter their crawling habits. Finely ground bark, for example, won't deter them a bit and may, in fact, encourage them by giving them plenty of places to hide on the warm, sunny days when they will look for cover.
Fresh seaweed, if you can get it, is coated with salt and the slugs will stay away. Even as the seaweed dries it becomes coarse and will discourage slug travel. A three- or four-inch coating -- around the plants but not touching the stem -- is recommended.
Buckwheat hulls, though more expensive than most other mulches, will also work. The slugs don't like the consistency of the lightweight seed coatings and will stay away.
Some folks don't mulch at all in the spring while the ground is already moist, figuring that the mulch will trap the excess moisture that creates ideal slug conditions. When the soil begins to dry in mid-summer, it may be safer to apply your bark, pine needles, straw or mulch of choice.
SOIL DUSTING
Numerous materials, when scattered in a thin unbroken ring around the plants' stems, will inhibit slugs from reaching your plants. Your coffee grounds, for example, will serve as both a deterrent and a poison. The journal Nature recently reported that caffeine is toxic to slugs and some companies have begun marketing a caffeine-based slug spray.
Ash from your wood stove will also work well, provided that it stays dry. Slugs don't like the feeling of the rough material, which will quickly dehydrate their worm-like bodies that are primarily made up of water.
Though you may have ash in great supply, you can't use it indefinitely because it will eventually raise the pH of your soil too high. After a few applications of ash, you may want to switch to a product known as diatomaceous earth. Mined from the ocean floor, diatomaceous earth is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied slugs, causing them to shrivel up and die. It looks and feels like a white powder, but you're advised to use a dust mask when applying diatomaceous earth; it can irritate eyes and lungs.
PHYSICAL BARRIERS
Nature's most fool-proof tool in the war against slugs is copper, which slugs find irritating. Many garden centers sell thin copper strips, which can wrap around the base of plants, or plant pots. We used two-inch wide strips in our trials and had excellent results.
Some gardeners will purchase fine copper wire and coil it loosely around plants. Keeping the coil loose will give the plants plenty of room to grow. Whether you use the strips or the coils, be sure no part of the plant hangs over the copper and touches the ground, otherwise the slugs will have a "bridge" to get to the plant.
We didn't try this one in our garden, but heard from others that lava rock can be used as a slug barrier around plantings. The rock needs to remain on the soil surface and form a continuous wall, otherwise the slugs will find any opening to crawl through.
Crushed eggs shells may also be used in a ring around the plants -- if you can find an ample supply of shells. The shells' sharp edges will deter slugs from crawling. Slugs also won't crawl over dry sand, but we found they will happily move over wet sand.
BARRIER PLANTS
We didn't have time to test this one, but many gardeners reported that slugs can be kept at bay with a "wall" of slug-resistant plants.
"Look around and see what they won't eat," said Mary Snider, a master gardener from Ogdensburg in northern New York. "Garlic, ginger, chives, red lettuces -- not green -- and most of the mints generally won't be touched by slugs. Grow these plants on the edges of your garden. Most of these plants, with the exception of red lettuce, generally won't be eaten by deer or other critters, either."
INSTANT DEATH
If you've had it, or you don't want to mess around with barriers, mulches or soil dusts, you can go out in the evening and simply kill the slugs instantly. The salt in your table salt shaker will cause the slugs to quickly shed their outer shell and die of dehydration. A big question with this method concerns how much salt your soil can tolerate and most people we talked with don't recommend using this method more than four or five times during the season.
A spray solution of household ammonia, mixed with 25 percent water, will also kill the slugs quickly. Experiment with this method in your own garden before going full bore. If the ammonia solution is too strong, it can damage the plants. And because the ammonia will instantly combine with the nitrogen in the atmosphere to create ammonium nitrate -- a usable form of nitrogen fertilizer for the plants -- it is possible to overfertilize and burn plants with too many applications of ammonia.
BEER TRAPS
Often cited as a great way to attract and trap slugs, beer does work. Put a tin can filled with beer in the garden and bury it in the soil with only about a half-inch above the soil line. Slugs will crawl in and drown. The drawback, however, is that you'll have to refill the beer every couple of days, and you'll need to have a tin can of beer for about every three-square feet of garden space. Note: Keeping the lid above the soil line is important; if you place the lid flush with the soil line, you may trap beetles that are natural slug predators.
A far more potent trap operates on the same principle as beer. Since the slugs are drawn to the yeast in the beer, you'll get even better results by creating a home yeast mixture. Pour two cups of warm water into a jar and add a packet of dry yeast. Add in about a teaspoon each of salt and sugar for good measure.
After mixing the solution, divide the contents equally into another jar and place both jaurs in the garden at an angle, so that the liquid is almost pouring out onto the soil. This potent mixture will draw slugs from several feet away and last a few days. When the jar is full of drowned slugs, you can add them to the compost pile.
OTHER TRAPS
Gardeners have no shortage of contraptions designed to lure slugs, which will look for any damp area to wait out a sunny day.You can
1) overturn a wet clay flower pot with just a small opening near the soil for the slugs to crawl through;
2) cut a grapefruit in half and turn it upside down;
3) place a wet board, log, newspaper or plastic bag near the garden.
All of these will gather slugs for you; how you dispose of them --barehanded or gloved, with scissors or daggers, or by drowning in a bucket or flushing in a toilet -- is up to you. Every slug you collect is one that won't eat your plants and won't leg eggs for future generations.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS
New products made from iron sulphate will lure and poison slugs and these reportedly work well. Escar-Go and Sluggo are common trade names of the same organic product that is safe for birds, pets and the environment.
Many of the traditional slug baits contain metaldehyde, a nerve poison, which can seriously harm pets and the environment. With all the other alternatives listed above -- and the serious risks associated with this highly toxic chemical -- we would hope gardeners never feel the need to resort to this method.
For more on natural lawn care each week, click on www.safelawns.org.
Be sure to let us know what you think after viewing the video. Send me an email at
Paul Tukey at paul@ppplants.com.
-Paul Tukey: May 17, 2006.
The spring of 2005 seemed like a distant memory. You recall last spring, right? All but one day of the month was rainy. Whatever we could get into the ground was quickly snatched up by eager fat slugs, which just love damp, cool weather.
Now, of course, we're back in exactly the same rainy pattern as last May. Many of our readers in New England have far worse problems than slugs right now. Streets and basements are literally under water and life as they know it has been disrupted indefinitely. For many farmers, the first plantings of crops have washed away.
For gardeners, that certainly means that slugs will be waiting when you are able to venture into the flowers and vegetables. For this week's Tip of the Week, we thought it best to dust off the slug article from last season. Many of you will need the information.
WATERING
While we can't do anything about the rain, we can adjust our own watering schedule. Slugs do most damage in the evening and at night and the drier we can keep the plants and soil, the better. If you water in the morning the surface soil will be dry by evening on most sunny days. This one change can greatly reduce slug damage.
MULCH
What you place around your plants can significantly alter their crawling habits. Finely ground bark, for example, won't deter them a bit and may, in fact, encourage them by giving them plenty of places to hide on the warm, sunny days when they will look for cover.
Fresh seaweed, if you can get it, is coated with salt and the slugs will stay away. Even as the seaweed dries it becomes coarse and will discourage slug travel. A three- or four-inch coating -- around the plants but not touching the stem -- is recommended.
Buckwheat hulls, though more expensive than most other mulches, will also work. The slugs don't like the consistency of the lightweight seed coatings and will stay away.
Some folks don't mulch at all in the spring while the ground is already moist, figuring that the mulch will trap the excess moisture that creates ideal slug conditions. When the soil begins to dry in mid-summer, it may be safer to apply your bark, pine needles, straw or mulch of choice.
SOIL DUSTING
Numerous materials, when scattered in a thin unbroken ring around the plants' stems, will inhibit slugs from reaching your plants. Your coffee grounds, for example, will serve as both a deterrent and a poison. The journal Nature recently reported that caffeine is toxic to slugs and some companies have begun marketing a caffeine-based slug spray.
Ash from your wood stove will also work well, provided that it stays dry. Slugs don't like the feeling of the rough material, which will quickly dehydrate their worm-like bodies that are primarily made up of water.
Though you may have ash in great supply, you can't use it indefinitely because it will eventually raise the pH of your soil too high. After a few applications of ash, you may want to switch to a product known as diatomaceous earth. Mined from the ocean floor, diatomaceous earth is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied slugs, causing them to shrivel up and die. It looks and feels like a white powder, but you're advised to use a dust mask when applying diatomaceous earth; it can irritate eyes and lungs.
PHYSICAL BARRIERS
Nature's most fool-proof tool in the war against slugs is copper, which slugs find irritating. Many garden centers sell thin copper strips, which can wrap around the base of plants, or plant pots. We used two-inch wide strips in our trials and had excellent results.
Some gardeners will purchase fine copper wire and coil it loosely around plants. Keeping the coil loose will give the plants plenty of room to grow. Whether you use the strips or the coils, be sure no part of the plant hangs over the copper and touches the ground, otherwise the slugs will have a "bridge" to get to the plant.
We didn't try this one in our garden, but heard from others that lava rock can be used as a slug barrier around plantings. The rock needs to remain on the soil surface and form a continuous wall, otherwise the slugs will find any opening to crawl through.
Crushed eggs shells may also be used in a ring around the plants -- if you can find an ample supply of shells. The shells' sharp edges will deter slugs from crawling. Slugs also won't crawl over dry sand, but we found they will happily move over wet sand.
BARRIER PLANTS
We didn't have time to test this one, but many gardeners reported that slugs can be kept at bay with a "wall" of slug-resistant plants.
"Look around and see what they won't eat," said Mary Snider, a master gardener from Ogdensburg in northern New York. "Garlic, ginger, chives, red lettuces -- not green -- and most of the mints generally won't be touched by slugs. Grow these plants on the edges of your garden. Most of these plants, with the exception of red lettuce, generally won't be eaten by deer or other critters, either."
INSTANT DEATH
If you've had it, or you don't want to mess around with barriers, mulches or soil dusts, you can go out in the evening and simply kill the slugs instantly. The salt in your table salt shaker will cause the slugs to quickly shed their outer shell and die of dehydration. A big question with this method concerns how much salt your soil can tolerate and most people we talked with don't recommend using this method more than four or five times during the season.
A spray solution of household ammonia, mixed with 25 percent water, will also kill the slugs quickly. Experiment with this method in your own garden before going full bore. If the ammonia solution is too strong, it can damage the plants. And because the ammonia will instantly combine with the nitrogen in the atmosphere to create ammonium nitrate -- a usable form of nitrogen fertilizer for the plants -- it is possible to overfertilize and burn plants with too many applications of ammonia.
BEER TRAPS
Often cited as a great way to attract and trap slugs, beer does work. Put a tin can filled with beer in the garden and bury it in the soil with only about a half-inch above the soil line. Slugs will crawl in and drown. The drawback, however, is that you'll have to refill the beer every couple of days, and you'll need to have a tin can of beer for about every three-square feet of garden space. Note: Keeping the lid above the soil line is important; if you place the lid flush with the soil line, you may trap beetles that are natural slug predators.
A far more potent trap operates on the same principle as beer. Since the slugs are drawn to the yeast in the beer, you'll get even better results by creating a home yeast mixture. Pour two cups of warm water into a jar and add a packet of dry yeast. Add in about a teaspoon each of salt and sugar for good measure.
After mixing the solution, divide the contents equally into another jar and place both jaurs in the garden at an angle, so that the liquid is almost pouring out onto the soil. This potent mixture will draw slugs from several feet away and last a few days. When the jar is full of drowned slugs, you can add them to the compost pile.
OTHER TRAPS
Gardeners have no shortage of contraptions designed to lure slugs, which will look for any damp area to wait out a sunny day.You can
1) overturn a wet clay flower pot with just a small opening near the soil for the slugs to crawl through;
2) cut a grapefruit in half and turn it upside down;
3) place a wet board, log, newspaper or plastic bag near the garden.
All of these will gather slugs for you; how you dispose of them --barehanded or gloved, with scissors or daggers, or by drowning in a bucket or flushing in a toilet -- is up to you. Every slug you collect is one that won't eat your plants and won't leg eggs for future generations.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS
New products made from iron sulphate will lure and poison slugs and these reportedly work well. Escar-Go and Sluggo are common trade names of the same organic product that is safe for birds, pets and the environment.
Many of the traditional slug baits contain metaldehyde, a nerve poison, which can seriously harm pets and the environment. With all the other alternatives listed above -- and the serious risks associated with this highly toxic chemical -- we would hope gardeners never feel the need to resort to this method.
For more on natural lawn care each week, click on www.safelawns.org.
Be sure to let us know what you think after viewing the video. Send me an email at
Paul Tukey at paul@ppplants.com.
-Paul Tukey: May 17, 2006.
Sunday, May 14, 2006
Harvesting Vegetables by Jackie Carroll
Commercial vegetable growers, wholesalers and retailers are experts at selecting the optimum harvest time and storage conditions to ensure that the vegetables you find in the grocery store will have the longest possible shelf life. They do an excellent job of ensuring that the grocery store produce department is continually stocked with the freshest vegetables possible, even when the grower is thousands of miles from the consumer. The only problem with the system is that the optimum harvest time for a long shelf life is not always the optimum time for the best flavor.
Some people swear that once the bloom falls off the end of the squash, it's past it's prime. These infant squash aren't available at the grocery store because at this stage they bruise easily and have a shorter shelf life than squash left on the vines until the skin toughens. Some vegetables (such as tomatoes) are picked long before their prime and ripen in storage facilities rather than on the vine.
The only way to experience vegetables at their prime is to grow them yourself. For best results, harvest your vegetables the day you plan to eat them, preferably early in the morning. Sprinkle them lightly with water and store them in a cool place until you're ready to prepare them.
Some vegetables, such as parsnips, carrots and potatoes, keep well in the ground until needed. Others have a short harvest window and should be picked promptly when ripe. Invest in a good kitchen garden cookbook with a variety of recipes for each vegetable to prevent monotony when you find yourself harvesting the same vegetables for several consecutive days.
Text Vegetable Guidelines.
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Some people swear that once the bloom falls off the end of the squash, it's past it's prime. These infant squash aren't available at the grocery store because at this stage they bruise easily and have a shorter shelf life than squash left on the vines until the skin toughens. Some vegetables (such as tomatoes) are picked long before their prime and ripen in storage facilities rather than on the vine.
The only way to experience vegetables at their prime is to grow them yourself. For best results, harvest your vegetables the day you plan to eat them, preferably early in the morning. Sprinkle them lightly with water and store them in a cool place until you're ready to prepare them.
Some vegetables, such as parsnips, carrots and potatoes, keep well in the ground until needed. Others have a short harvest window and should be picked promptly when ripe. Invest in a good kitchen garden cookbook with a variety of recipes for each vegetable to prevent monotony when you find yourself harvesting the same vegetables for several consecutive days.
Text Vegetable Guidelines.
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Miniature Roses by Jackie Carroll
Don't let the delicate appearance fool you! These little gems are hardy enough to grow outdoors in zones 6-10 without winter protection, and with a good cover of mulch they will survive winters as far north as zone 4. Miniature roses are surprisingly easy to grow, and they look great as edgings for your beds or borders, accent plants for rock gardens, and as houseplants.
Miniature roses range in size from the micro-minis which grow to about five inches, up to a height four feet or more. The flowers are from 1/2 inch to two inches in diameter, and the range of colors is similar to that of full-sized roses. Most types will bloom from spring until frost. Unfortunately, miniature roses have little or no fragrance.
When grown indoors as pot plants, miniature roses need a little special care. Even when grown in the sunniest window, they will usually need supplemental light. You will know your rose isn't getting enough light when the stems seem to stretch out leaving wide spaces between the leaves.
Miniature roses also need lots of humidity if kept indoors. Set your pot in a tray of pebbles and water. The pebbles will support the pot above the water level so the soil doesn't become waterlogged. As it evaporates, the water will provide the plant with extra humidity. If you house is very dry, run a cool-mist vaporizer now and then.
Spider mites and whiteflies are drawn to indoor miniature roses. To reduce the chances of these pests attacking your plants, give them a weekly shower. Take care to thoroughly rinse both the tops and the undersides of the leaves. To treat whiteflies, use an insecticidal soap at five day intervals or spray with a solution of four parts water to three parts rubbing alcohol -- add a squirt of dish soap for good measure -- and keep the plant out of the light until the alcohol dries completely.
Soap spray and alcohol spray also work for spider mites, and you might also try buttermilk spray: mix 1/2 cup buttermilk with 4 cups wheat flour to 5 gallons of water. Quarantine infested plants until you are sure that the insects are irradiated. In extreme cases, you can strip the leaves off the plant and cut it back by half. Don't worry, you won't kill it, and you'll soon see signs of new growth.
For the best blooms, use a fertilizer that is high in potassium. The last number in the N-P-K ratio indicates the amount of potassium, and an N-P-K ratio of 5-5-10 is a good choice. Mix the fertilizer to about 1/4 strength and use it once a week.
After your roses spend a season indoors, it's best to plant them outdoors and get new, disease and pest-free plants to use indoors. They can be planted directly in the garden or kept in containers, but remember that outdoor plants in small containers can dry out quickly. Harden them off before placing them outdoors permanently.
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Miniature roses range in size from the micro-minis which grow to about five inches, up to a height four feet or more. The flowers are from 1/2 inch to two inches in diameter, and the range of colors is similar to that of full-sized roses. Most types will bloom from spring until frost. Unfortunately, miniature roses have little or no fragrance.
When grown indoors as pot plants, miniature roses need a little special care. Even when grown in the sunniest window, they will usually need supplemental light. You will know your rose isn't getting enough light when the stems seem to stretch out leaving wide spaces between the leaves.
Miniature roses also need lots of humidity if kept indoors. Set your pot in a tray of pebbles and water. The pebbles will support the pot above the water level so the soil doesn't become waterlogged. As it evaporates, the water will provide the plant with extra humidity. If you house is very dry, run a cool-mist vaporizer now and then.
Spider mites and whiteflies are drawn to indoor miniature roses. To reduce the chances of these pests attacking your plants, give them a weekly shower. Take care to thoroughly rinse both the tops and the undersides of the leaves. To treat whiteflies, use an insecticidal soap at five day intervals or spray with a solution of four parts water to three parts rubbing alcohol -- add a squirt of dish soap for good measure -- and keep the plant out of the light until the alcohol dries completely.
Soap spray and alcohol spray also work for spider mites, and you might also try buttermilk spray: mix 1/2 cup buttermilk with 4 cups wheat flour to 5 gallons of water. Quarantine infested plants until you are sure that the insects are irradiated. In extreme cases, you can strip the leaves off the plant and cut it back by half. Don't worry, you won't kill it, and you'll soon see signs of new growth.
For the best blooms, use a fertilizer that is high in potassium. The last number in the N-P-K ratio indicates the amount of potassium, and an N-P-K ratio of 5-5-10 is a good choice. Mix the fertilizer to about 1/4 strength and use it once a week.
After your roses spend a season indoors, it's best to plant them outdoors and get new, disease and pest-free plants to use indoors. They can be planted directly in the garden or kept in containers, but remember that outdoor plants in small containers can dry out quickly. Harden them off before placing them outdoors permanently.
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Rock Gardens by Jackie Carroll
If your property has a slope dotted with interesting or weathered rock formations, you have an ideal spot for a rock garden. If nature hasn't provided you with the ideal location, all you need is a few loads of topsoil and some rocks. If you must bring in your own rocks and soil, start small. The job may be bigger than you think.
Rocks
Rocks native to your area will look natural and will be the cheapest and easiest to obtain. Large rocks with irregular shapes look interesting in the rock garden, but keep in mind that you'll need smaller rocks, too. Limestone is a good selection. The rock is soft and porous, allowing moisture to seep through, and some determined roots will be able to make their way through the rock. Limestone usually has depressions in it that can be filled with dirt for planting mosses and lichens.
Set the rocks in the lowest, front part of the garden first and work upward. Shovel enough soil around each rock to anchor it firmly. You may need to bury half or more of each rock. After the rocks are in place, let the soil settle around them for a few days, then take a look from a distance to be sure you like the layout before adding plants.
Plants
There is an endless variety of plants to choose from. Low growing perennials are the best, but since many of those best suited to rock gardens bloom only in the spring, consider strategic placement of summer-blooming heaths, heathers, herbs and annuals to add color during the rest of the season.
Some purists feel that a rock garden should contain only those plants which grow naturally on rocky slopes in poor soil. Most rock gardens, however, are not located in cool climates with long winters where these plants do well. When selecting your plants, make sure they are right for your climate and exposure.
Seeds for the Rock Garden
Annuals
*Blue Eyed Grass
*Desert Bluebell
*Lobelia
*Strawflower
*Summer Savory
*Sweet Alyssum
Perennials
*Balloon Flower
*Dwarf Lavender
*English Daisy
*Forget-Me-Not
*Wallflower
*Penstemon
*Phlox
Rock Garden Care
Think of your rock garden as a collection of potted plants, and tend them accordingly. Loosen the soil in each area occasionally with a small garden fork. Most rock plants do well in poor soil, but the occasional addition of manure or compost will give them a boost.
Routine care will include cutting back any leggy plants after flowering, clipping off dead stems and foliage, and dividing any plants that become root-bound or too large for its space. Check for insects and diseases regularly. Slugs may be especially pesky because they enjoy the shelter found among the rocks. Never let weeds grow in the nooks and crannies. They will easily crowd out plants in small areas.
Because plants in a rock garden are more exposed than plants in a level bed, they may need more protection in winter. A heavy mulch should be applied before the first freeze in cold climates.
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Rocks
Rocks native to your area will look natural and will be the cheapest and easiest to obtain. Large rocks with irregular shapes look interesting in the rock garden, but keep in mind that you'll need smaller rocks, too. Limestone is a good selection. The rock is soft and porous, allowing moisture to seep through, and some determined roots will be able to make their way through the rock. Limestone usually has depressions in it that can be filled with dirt for planting mosses and lichens.
Set the rocks in the lowest, front part of the garden first and work upward. Shovel enough soil around each rock to anchor it firmly. You may need to bury half or more of each rock. After the rocks are in place, let the soil settle around them for a few days, then take a look from a distance to be sure you like the layout before adding plants.
Plants
There is an endless variety of plants to choose from. Low growing perennials are the best, but since many of those best suited to rock gardens bloom only in the spring, consider strategic placement of summer-blooming heaths, heathers, herbs and annuals to add color during the rest of the season.
Some purists feel that a rock garden should contain only those plants which grow naturally on rocky slopes in poor soil. Most rock gardens, however, are not located in cool climates with long winters where these plants do well. When selecting your plants, make sure they are right for your climate and exposure.
Seeds for the Rock Garden
Annuals
*Blue Eyed Grass
*Desert Bluebell
*Lobelia
*Strawflower
*Summer Savory
*Sweet Alyssum
Perennials
*Balloon Flower
*Dwarf Lavender
*English Daisy
*Forget-Me-Not
*Wallflower
*Penstemon
*Phlox
Rock Garden Care
Think of your rock garden as a collection of potted plants, and tend them accordingly. Loosen the soil in each area occasionally with a small garden fork. Most rock plants do well in poor soil, but the occasional addition of manure or compost will give them a boost.
Routine care will include cutting back any leggy plants after flowering, clipping off dead stems and foliage, and dividing any plants that become root-bound or too large for its space. Check for insects and diseases regularly. Slugs may be especially pesky because they enjoy the shelter found among the rocks. Never let weeds grow in the nooks and crannies. They will easily crowd out plants in small areas.
Because plants in a rock garden are more exposed than plants in a level bed, they may need more protection in winter. A heavy mulch should be applied before the first freeze in cold climates.
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
The Magic of Annual Vines by Jackie Carroll
For the cost of a packet of seeds, you can quickly create a show stopping garden accent or a living hideaway for children, hide a rusty chain link fence or an unsightly garage wall, and turn an ordinary balcony into a private garden. Started from seeds, annual vines will scramble to heights of 20 feet or more, highlighting features you want to show off and covering eyesores.
Here are just a few of the many uses for annual vines:
*Add a little magic to your garden by planting a trellis or pole with brightly colored morning glories and moonflowers. You'll have a burst of brightly colored flowers during the day, and luminescent white blossoms at night.
*Add shade and privacy to your balcony with annual vines. Because their root systems are limited, they can be grown in large planters on a trellis, or allowed to trail from window boxes and big hanging baskets. The vertical growing habit will make a small area seem larger.
*Annual vines are ideal for introducing your children to the magic of gardening. Build a teepee of bamboo or fallen tree branches, and plant with scarlet runner beans or tall nasturtiums. Your children will enjoy their colorful (and edible) hideaway while learning about the wonders of nature.
*Plant climbing vines along chain link fences and light poles to soften the look of your landscape.
*Annual vines will quickly blanket a problem slope or other area that is difficult to mow with colorful flowers. If your slope is difficult to plant, use a vine that will reseed itself such as morning glories or cardinal climbers.
*Plant vines along a southern wall to keep the house cooler in summer.
Annual vines are easy to grow. They like a sunny location with good quality, well drained soil. Plant your seeds according to the package directions, and keep them evenly moist until they germinate. After germination, you'll only need to water when the weather has been extremely hot or dry. Use fertilizers sparingly. An abundance of nitrogen will encourage your vines to produce an abundance of dark green foliage and few flowers.
Have your trellises or other support in place when you plant your seeds. If you can't plant right next to the support, insert twigs into the soil next to the seeds to lead the vines to their intended support. If the vine can't find its support right away, it will waste time searching and reaching for something to grab on to.
Recommended Annual Vines
Click the name of the vine for more information about the seeds.
Black Eyed Susan Vine
Unlike many climbing vines, this one isn't invasive so it can be incorporated into existing gardens without fear of crowding out existing plants. It's a great choice for hanging baskets and window boxes.
Height: 5' to 10' trailing vine
Cardinal Climber Vine
The deep red flowers with white or yellow throats are sure to draw attention to your trellises, fences and poles.
Height: 6' to 20' vine
Cypress Vine
This vine can add a tropical texture to your landscape with its interesting foliage and mix of bright red, pink and white flowers. With the right conditions, it grows to 20 feet.
Height: 8' to 10' vine
Hyacinth Bean Vine
This striking vine will have your visitors asking if it's real! The flowers are followed by velvety purple bean pods.
Height: 6' - 20' vine
Mina Lobata
'Firecracker Vine' or 'Exotic Love,' this unusual, exciting, interesting annual vine has up to 12 beautiful 2" tubular flowers on each spike. Performs well on trellises and in hanging baskets.
Height: 6' to 10'
Moonflower
Plant this fast-growing vine on a porch, near an entrance, or under a window where you can enjoy the evening performance and heady fragrance. The flowers bloom only at night, and unfold in 2-3 minutes, and event worth waiting for!
Height: 10' to 20' vine
Morning Glories
In the summer, flowers open in the morning, and in the fall they stay open all day. Morning glories are grown as a groundcover in difficult areas.
Height: 8' - 10' vine
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Here are just a few of the many uses for annual vines:
*Add a little magic to your garden by planting a trellis or pole with brightly colored morning glories and moonflowers. You'll have a burst of brightly colored flowers during the day, and luminescent white blossoms at night.
*Add shade and privacy to your balcony with annual vines. Because their root systems are limited, they can be grown in large planters on a trellis, or allowed to trail from window boxes and big hanging baskets. The vertical growing habit will make a small area seem larger.
*Annual vines are ideal for introducing your children to the magic of gardening. Build a teepee of bamboo or fallen tree branches, and plant with scarlet runner beans or tall nasturtiums. Your children will enjoy their colorful (and edible) hideaway while learning about the wonders of nature.
*Plant climbing vines along chain link fences and light poles to soften the look of your landscape.
*Annual vines will quickly blanket a problem slope or other area that is difficult to mow with colorful flowers. If your slope is difficult to plant, use a vine that will reseed itself such as morning glories or cardinal climbers.
*Plant vines along a southern wall to keep the house cooler in summer.
Annual vines are easy to grow. They like a sunny location with good quality, well drained soil. Plant your seeds according to the package directions, and keep them evenly moist until they germinate. After germination, you'll only need to water when the weather has been extremely hot or dry. Use fertilizers sparingly. An abundance of nitrogen will encourage your vines to produce an abundance of dark green foliage and few flowers.
Have your trellises or other support in place when you plant your seeds. If you can't plant right next to the support, insert twigs into the soil next to the seeds to lead the vines to their intended support. If the vine can't find its support right away, it will waste time searching and reaching for something to grab on to.
Recommended Annual Vines
Click the name of the vine for more information about the seeds.
Black Eyed Susan Vine
Unlike many climbing vines, this one isn't invasive so it can be incorporated into existing gardens without fear of crowding out existing plants. It's a great choice for hanging baskets and window boxes.
Height: 5' to 10' trailing vine
Cardinal Climber Vine
The deep red flowers with white or yellow throats are sure to draw attention to your trellises, fences and poles.
Height: 6' to 20' vine
Cypress Vine
This vine can add a tropical texture to your landscape with its interesting foliage and mix of bright red, pink and white flowers. With the right conditions, it grows to 20 feet.
Height: 8' to 10' vine
Hyacinth Bean Vine
This striking vine will have your visitors asking if it's real! The flowers are followed by velvety purple bean pods.
Height: 6' - 20' vine
Mina Lobata
'Firecracker Vine' or 'Exotic Love,' this unusual, exciting, interesting annual vine has up to 12 beautiful 2" tubular flowers on each spike. Performs well on trellises and in hanging baskets.
Height: 6' to 10'
Moonflower
Plant this fast-growing vine on a porch, near an entrance, or under a window where you can enjoy the evening performance and heady fragrance. The flowers bloom only at night, and unfold in 2-3 minutes, and event worth waiting for!
Height: 10' to 20' vine
Morning Glories
In the summer, flowers open in the morning, and in the fall they stay open all day. Morning glories are grown as a groundcover in difficult areas.
Height: 8' - 10' vine
About the Author:
Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com
Visit GardenGuidesKids.com
Wednesday, May 10, 2006
Corn Gluten May be Marginal as Weed Control
Before I explain corn gluten further, you need to understand the difference between the terms "post-emergent" and "pre-emergent" in weed control.
Post-emergent controls work after weeds have germinated. By employing often-misunderstood "pre-emergent" weed control, you're simply attempting to cut weeds off at the pass, before the seeds germinate and begin to emerge from the soil. Primarily marketed by the traditional lawn-care community as weapons against crabgrass, synthetic pre-emergent weed controls are cocktails of chemicals that create barriers at the soil surface through which seeds cannot come to life. The products are powerful, but nonetheless often fail because their use requires proper timing of application and patience. By their nature, these products do not break down quickly in the soil and are therefore among the most controversial lawn care herbicides.
In the natural organic lawn care community, the only pre-emergent control of note is based on corn gluten meal, a protein-rich byproduct of the cornmeal milling process. Marketed under a variety of brand names, corn gluten was patented for use with weeds by Iowa State University in 1991. As the corn gluten dissolves, it also creates a weed barrier, but the results, frankly, have been mixed. Natural turf care professionals use corn gluten effectively because they understand the issue of timing; the product must be on the ground two to three weeks prior to the expected germination of the target weed. For crabgrass in the North, that date can vary from early April to early May -- whenever the forsythia and daffodils begin to bloom. That means that it's already getting a bit late to use corn gluten products as crabgrass control this season.
Potential corn gluten users must be aware of four key points:
1) the product inhibits seed germination of all types and therefore cannot be used within six weeks of overseeding your lawn. That means that in any given spring or fall you will usually not opt to apply corn gluten and overseed with new grass seed;
2) corn gluten does absolutely no good combating previously established perennial weeds, or annual weeds that are already growing;
3) researchers at Iowa State admit that, on average, corn gluten is only about 65 percent as effective as synthetic pre-emergent weed controls;
4) corn gluten is an excellent source of the macronutrient nitrogen and, if used, needs to be factored into your lawn's overall fertilization program for the year. A 40-pound bag of corn gluten will generally contain 8- to 10-percent nitrogen, or between three or four pounds per bag. For some natural lawn-care professionals, the nitrogen included in a spring application of corn gluten is often the only nitrogen they apply on customers' lawns all season.
One newer fertilizer manufacturer in the marketplace, in fact, markets corn gluten meal strictly as a lawn fertilizer. Bradfield Organics' product known as "Luscious Lawn" lists 9 percent nitrogen in its analysis, but doesn't tout any weed 'n feed properties.
"Our concern is that a lot of customers would have unrealistic expectations about this product for use in weed control," said Bill Sadler, the director of product development for Bradfield Organics, a subsidiary of Ralston-Purina in St. Louis, Mo. "We do tell people not to put down corn gluten at the same time they're applying grass seed, but in general we have found that corn gluten is only marginally effective as a weed control. On the other hand, we think corn gluten is a great source of organic nitrogen and we've had great results in our lawn tests and great feedback from customers."
The bottom line tip for the week is to go ahead and use corn gluten as a fertilizer, but don't expect great results on weed control, especially since many annual weeds have already germinated this year. Experiment with corn gluten as a weed control in the future before you make it the backbone of your weed control program.
For more on natural lawn care each week, click on www.safelawns.org.
-Paul Tukey: May 10, 2006.
Post-emergent controls work after weeds have germinated. By employing often-misunderstood "pre-emergent" weed control, you're simply attempting to cut weeds off at the pass, before the seeds germinate and begin to emerge from the soil. Primarily marketed by the traditional lawn-care community as weapons against crabgrass, synthetic pre-emergent weed controls are cocktails of chemicals that create barriers at the soil surface through which seeds cannot come to life. The products are powerful, but nonetheless often fail because their use requires proper timing of application and patience. By their nature, these products do not break down quickly in the soil and are therefore among the most controversial lawn care herbicides.
In the natural organic lawn care community, the only pre-emergent control of note is based on corn gluten meal, a protein-rich byproduct of the cornmeal milling process. Marketed under a variety of brand names, corn gluten was patented for use with weeds by Iowa State University in 1991. As the corn gluten dissolves, it also creates a weed barrier, but the results, frankly, have been mixed. Natural turf care professionals use corn gluten effectively because they understand the issue of timing; the product must be on the ground two to three weeks prior to the expected germination of the target weed. For crabgrass in the North, that date can vary from early April to early May -- whenever the forsythia and daffodils begin to bloom. That means that it's already getting a bit late to use corn gluten products as crabgrass control this season.
Potential corn gluten users must be aware of four key points:
1) the product inhibits seed germination of all types and therefore cannot be used within six weeks of overseeding your lawn. That means that in any given spring or fall you will usually not opt to apply corn gluten and overseed with new grass seed;
2) corn gluten does absolutely no good combating previously established perennial weeds, or annual weeds that are already growing;
3) researchers at Iowa State admit that, on average, corn gluten is only about 65 percent as effective as synthetic pre-emergent weed controls;
4) corn gluten is an excellent source of the macronutrient nitrogen and, if used, needs to be factored into your lawn's overall fertilization program for the year. A 40-pound bag of corn gluten will generally contain 8- to 10-percent nitrogen, or between three or four pounds per bag. For some natural lawn-care professionals, the nitrogen included in a spring application of corn gluten is often the only nitrogen they apply on customers' lawns all season.
One newer fertilizer manufacturer in the marketplace, in fact, markets corn gluten meal strictly as a lawn fertilizer. Bradfield Organics' product known as "Luscious Lawn" lists 9 percent nitrogen in its analysis, but doesn't tout any weed 'n feed properties.
"Our concern is that a lot of customers would have unrealistic expectations about this product for use in weed control," said Bill Sadler, the director of product development for Bradfield Organics, a subsidiary of Ralston-Purina in St. Louis, Mo. "We do tell people not to put down corn gluten at the same time they're applying grass seed, but in general we have found that corn gluten is only marginally effective as a weed control. On the other hand, we think corn gluten is a great source of organic nitrogen and we've had great results in our lawn tests and great feedback from customers."
The bottom line tip for the week is to go ahead and use corn gluten as a fertilizer, but don't expect great results on weed control, especially since many annual weeds have already germinated this year. Experiment with corn gluten as a weed control in the future before you make it the backbone of your weed control program.
For more on natural lawn care each week, click on www.safelawns.org.
-Paul Tukey: May 10, 2006.
Tuesday, May 02, 2006
Your Lawn and Fossil Fuel
When you think of lawn care and its impact on energy sources, the act of mowing the grass is probably what comes first to mind. Traditional lawn care, in fact, consumes oil and natural gas in numerous ways:
Mowing - Yale University has estimated that the U.S. uses more than 600,000,000 gallons of gas to mow and trim lawns each year, or about two gallons of gas for every man, woman and child, or five gallons per household. Mowers also consume additional engine oil in their crankcases and two-stroke mowers consume oil in their fuel.
Watering - According to a California study, in many areas - especially in the West where water must be moved great distances from reservoirs - the amount of fuel needed to pump the water is at least equal to the fuel used in mowing.
Fertilizing - Creating synthetic nitrogen requires the heating of natural gas to 750 to 1,200 degrees to combine atmospheric nitrogen and hydrogen into ammonia. The amount of natural gas required to make approximately 200 bags of lawn fertilizer would heat your home for a year. Each 40-pound bag contains the fossil fuel equivalent of approximately 2.5 gallons of gasoline. Transporting these bags of fertilizer from the factory and two your home requires additional fuel.
Cleanup - Power blowers, brooms and rakes also use fuel. Additional resources are consumed when yard wastes are removed to the landfill or incinerator.
Average fuel consumption per household: A family with a third-acre lawn will: a) consume 5 gallons in mowing and trimming; b) apply the equivalent of 7 gallons in fertilizing; c) burn up to 5 gallons for watering; and d) consume an additional gallon for cleanup. That's 18 gallons of fuel per household. At U.S. 120,000,000 households, that's the equivalent of almost 2.2 billion gallons of fuel used on lawn care each year.
Alternatives
Mowing - Use an electric or push mower. An electric mower maintaining a third acre for a season consumes only $3 of electricity on average. Electric mowers are 75 percent quieter than gas mowers. Push mowers, of course, consume no fuel and make little noise.
Watering - Avoid large lawns in areas with water shortages. Grow drought-tolerant grasses. Save rainwater and gray water. Water deeply once per week on average, rather than frequently.
Fertilizing - Use natural, organic fertilizers not derived from fossil fuels. Recycle grass clippings, mow higher and mix 5 percent clover into your lawn seed.
Cleanup - Compost everything. All yard wastes can go into compost piles.
-Paul Tukey: May 2, 2006.
Mowing - Yale University has estimated that the U.S. uses more than 600,000,000 gallons of gas to mow and trim lawns each year, or about two gallons of gas for every man, woman and child, or five gallons per household. Mowers also consume additional engine oil in their crankcases and two-stroke mowers consume oil in their fuel.
Watering - According to a California study, in many areas - especially in the West where water must be moved great distances from reservoirs - the amount of fuel needed to pump the water is at least equal to the fuel used in mowing.
Fertilizing - Creating synthetic nitrogen requires the heating of natural gas to 750 to 1,200 degrees to combine atmospheric nitrogen and hydrogen into ammonia. The amount of natural gas required to make approximately 200 bags of lawn fertilizer would heat your home for a year. Each 40-pound bag contains the fossil fuel equivalent of approximately 2.5 gallons of gasoline. Transporting these bags of fertilizer from the factory and two your home requires additional fuel.
Cleanup - Power blowers, brooms and rakes also use fuel. Additional resources are consumed when yard wastes are removed to the landfill or incinerator.
Average fuel consumption per household: A family with a third-acre lawn will: a) consume 5 gallons in mowing and trimming; b) apply the equivalent of 7 gallons in fertilizing; c) burn up to 5 gallons for watering; and d) consume an additional gallon for cleanup. That's 18 gallons of fuel per household. At U.S. 120,000,000 households, that's the equivalent of almost 2.2 billion gallons of fuel used on lawn care each year.
Alternatives
Mowing - Use an electric or push mower. An electric mower maintaining a third acre for a season consumes only $3 of electricity on average. Electric mowers are 75 percent quieter than gas mowers. Push mowers, of course, consume no fuel and make little noise.
Watering - Avoid large lawns in areas with water shortages. Grow drought-tolerant grasses. Save rainwater and gray water. Water deeply once per week on average, rather than frequently.
Fertilizing - Use natural, organic fertilizers not derived from fossil fuels. Recycle grass clippings, mow higher and mix 5 percent clover into your lawn seed.
Cleanup - Compost everything. All yard wastes can go into compost piles.
-Paul Tukey: May 2, 2006.
Sunday, April 23, 2006
Gardening Tips
Like produce, buy the freshest flower bulbs available
When you choose fruit and salad greens at the market, you look for the freshest you can find. Why, then, buy old, dried up flower bulbs?
Some garden shops have fall flower bulbs for sale in beginning September, displayed for weeks in 100 degree heat. Walk right past those poor roasted little things - they are destined for a sad future and you don't want to share it.
Buy flower bulbs that are freshly harvested and have been stored for short periods in cool, humidity controlled rooms. You'll get more flowers, bigger blooms and healthier plants. That's the goal, right?
Plant in groups, not rows
As a general rule, roughly round, oval or triangular groupings are softer and more pleasing than narrow stripes. For a welcoming look, refrain from planting bulbs in lines like little soldiers. If a straight row is needed to complete your design, plant a wide one that provides a generous feel.
Choose a few favorites
In garden beds, broad sweeps or masses of just a few hues provide the most impact. Try to resist the urge to plant one or two of everything. Instead, concentrate on a few of your most loved colors or varieties. Or if deciding is just too difficult, consider planting several gardens, each focusing on different colors and different groups of plants.
Remember containers
For gardeners with busy schedules or little garden space, containers are the perfect solution. Pots, tubs, window boxes and urns provide limitless ways to add color and drama to stairs, porches, decks, patios and entryways. Containers require little, if any, weeding. Just plant, water occasionally and smile every time you look at them.
Keep a good thing going
Plant your bulbs so they bloom in succession. With a bit of planning, you can have an attractive yard with months of color, plus non-stop fragrance for your home.
Grow enough for indoor use
Look through you favorite magazine and you'll see a florist's arrangement in almost every beautiful room shot. Placing even a small bouquet on a side table or desk can delight the senses and add a feeling of luxury. Don't you deserve a little indulgence?
Consider height
Remember your grade school class photos where the tall kids stood in the back and the short ones up front? This approach works well in gardens, too. Tall plants like watsonia, bearded iris, glads and tall lilies are terrific for the back of the border. Shorter varieties like oxalis, miniature daffodils and sparaxis work well towards the front.
Whatever works for you
Your garden is a personal thing and it should please you. Don't worry about “right” and “wrong” as you create, just follow your heart. (And feel free to ignore the above tips if you choose.)
A few hours one autumn afternoon can yield months of beauty and fragrance next spring and summer. Let your imagination go and have fun. Enjoy!
Gardening Tips
provided by www.easytogrowbulbs.com
When you choose fruit and salad greens at the market, you look for the freshest you can find. Why, then, buy old, dried up flower bulbs?
Some garden shops have fall flower bulbs for sale in beginning September, displayed for weeks in 100 degree heat. Walk right past those poor roasted little things - they are destined for a sad future and you don't want to share it.
Buy flower bulbs that are freshly harvested and have been stored for short periods in cool, humidity controlled rooms. You'll get more flowers, bigger blooms and healthier plants. That's the goal, right?
Plant in groups, not rows
As a general rule, roughly round, oval or triangular groupings are softer and more pleasing than narrow stripes. For a welcoming look, refrain from planting bulbs in lines like little soldiers. If a straight row is needed to complete your design, plant a wide one that provides a generous feel.
Choose a few favorites
In garden beds, broad sweeps or masses of just a few hues provide the most impact. Try to resist the urge to plant one or two of everything. Instead, concentrate on a few of your most loved colors or varieties. Or if deciding is just too difficult, consider planting several gardens, each focusing on different colors and different groups of plants.
Remember containers
For gardeners with busy schedules or little garden space, containers are the perfect solution. Pots, tubs, window boxes and urns provide limitless ways to add color and drama to stairs, porches, decks, patios and entryways. Containers require little, if any, weeding. Just plant, water occasionally and smile every time you look at them.
Keep a good thing going
Plant your bulbs so they bloom in succession. With a bit of planning, you can have an attractive yard with months of color, plus non-stop fragrance for your home.
Grow enough for indoor use
Look through you favorite magazine and you'll see a florist's arrangement in almost every beautiful room shot. Placing even a small bouquet on a side table or desk can delight the senses and add a feeling of luxury. Don't you deserve a little indulgence?
Consider height
Remember your grade school class photos where the tall kids stood in the back and the short ones up front? This approach works well in gardens, too. Tall plants like watsonia, bearded iris, glads and tall lilies are terrific for the back of the border. Shorter varieties like oxalis, miniature daffodils and sparaxis work well towards the front.
Whatever works for you
Your garden is a personal thing and it should please you. Don't worry about “right” and “wrong” as you create, just follow your heart. (And feel free to ignore the above tips if you choose.)
A few hours one autumn afternoon can yield months of beauty and fragrance next spring and summer. Let your imagination go and have fun. Enjoy!
Gardening Tips
provided by www.easytogrowbulbs.com
6 Steps To turn your backyard into a Sanctuary For Birds
1. Put out the welcome mat!
Habitat loss is the biggest challenge facing birds. You can help by making your neighborhood more attractive to birds by landscaping with native plants that provide natural food sources, shelter from the elements and predators, and nesting sites. Providing feeders, nest boxes and water also benefits birds. To learn how, stop by your local wild bird food retailer.
Here is some additional information prepared by the National Audubon Science – Audubon At Home staff (http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home).
Bird Habitat Necessities
FOOD
Natural sources: Nothing beats natural, native vegetation to feed the birds of your area. Plant a variety of native plants that supply food in the form of seeds or fruits year-round. Native plants also provide homes for insects, which in turn become meals for birds. Even the way you maintain your garden can supply additional food sources. For instance, leaves raked into your garden bed and under shrubs can provide foraging areas for ground-feeding birds such as sparrows and juncos.
Supplemental sources: Millions of people enjoy feeding birds, and feeders can help birds in especially harsh winters. A feeding station with a variety of bird feeders suited to the eating habits of different species will attract the greatest number of species. For instance, some birds feed on the ground, others perch; some prefer sunflower seeds, others like Nyjer, suet, or nectar.
WATER
All birds need water for drinking and for bathing. By providing a clean, fresh source, you will attract more species than will visit bird feeders.
Natural sources: If you have a natural water source on your property, such as a stream or wetland, enhance its attractiveness and wildlife value by protecting and restoring native plant species and allowing the vegetation along the banks to grow high to create a buffer zone.
Supplemental sources: Bird baths are a simple, popular way to provide water, with endless designs available at garden centers and wild bird supply stores. The sides should incline gently to a depth of no more than two to three inches. The surface should be rough for better footing. To protect vulnerable bathing birds from lurking predators, locate the bath some distance from cover, about 15 feet is a good distance. Change the water every few days and keep the bath scrubbed clean. Birds are attracted to the sound of running water and a drip or misting feature will increase the number of visitors. Water heaters will keep the water free of ice during winter months in colder climates.
Ponds and Water Gardens: The creation of these water elements will take some work but, done well, they can attract many species. Ponds for birds should be shallow, with gently sloping shorelines.
NESTING
Birds will remain in your habitat during the breeding season if they have places to nest and raise young. Different species have different requirements; some nest in cavities, many others in open nests found on ledges or in a tree crotch, and others nest on the ground. Get to know which species are likely to nest in your area and provide the appropriate habitat or structure.
Natural sources: Native trees and shrubs provide good nesting areas for many species, from those that nest in holes to those that create cup-shaped nests in the crotches of branches to those that build nests at the tops of the canopy. Include a mix of evergreen and deciduous plants, a hedgerow, and vines. For grassland consider a meadow. Where safety permits, allow snags — dead trees — to remain standing. Woodpeckers and others excavate the rotting wood looking for insects. Cavity-nesting birds use the resulting holes.
Supplemental sources: Nest boxes make a wonderful addition to a yard, allowing you to easily watch a family raise its young. Wrens, swallows, bluebirds, Purple Martins, chickadees, and titmice are some of the species that readily use nest boxes. Identify the species of bird you’d like to attract to determine the correct size of the entrance hole needed. You may want to consider erecting a shelf-style structure for species such as robins and phoebes. Nest boxes should be mounted on a pole, fence post, or tree. Height of the nest depends on the species. For most backyard cavity nesters, a general height of at least five feet is recommended. Ventilation and drainage holes are necessary, as is access to the interior to allow periodic cleaning. Baffles and metal guards to deter predators are encouraged. You can assist birds in building their nests by supplying some of the materials they seek, such as twigs; short lengths of string, yarn, and thread; cotton; hair brushed from a pet; and sphagnum moss. Leave the offerings in a tray or in an onion net bag hung from a tree.
SHELTER
Birds need places where they can hide from predators and inclement weather. Trees, shrubs, meadows, and even rock walls provide such shelter.
Natural sources: Native trees and shrubs of different densities and heights give birds places of retreat and safety. In winter, native evergreens, hedgerows, and dense thickets offer critical cover. Place feeding stations close enough to vegetation so that birds can make a quick escape but far enough to allow for a wide visual field for watching possible threats.
Supplemental sources: If your yard is lacking appropriate shelter for wildlife, create a brush pile from fallen branches and leaves. Toss your discarded Christmas tree a few feet away from the feeder, far enough so that a lurking cat can’t pounce from behind it onto a ground-feeding bird but close enough for the birds to find speedy cover. The nooks and crannies of a stone wall, rock pile or stack of firewood can also provide hiding places and additional forage. You can also erect boxes designed specifically for roosting, with the entrance hole near the bottom so that heat doesn’t escape.
2. Prepare a proper menu.
Providing the appropriate foods year round will attract more birds to your yard and help ensure that they have a safe and nutritious diet. Refill feeders regularly with food desired by birds in your area. To pick the best menu, stop by your wild bird food retailer.
Here is additional information on menus for wild birds and other bird feeding tips from the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology (www.birds.cornell.edu).
Feeding Wild Birds
If you have a bird feeder in your backyard, you're in good company. Bird watching is one of America's fastest-growing hobbies, and surveys show that nearly half the households in the United States provide food for wild birds.
The appeal is obvious—by feeding birds we bring them close so we can see them more easily. Their colorful, lively company brightens up our lives, especially through the dreary days of winter.
Setting up a backyard bird feeder can make birds' lives easier, too. In much of North America, winter is a difficult time for birds. Finding food can be especially challenging during periods of extreme cold.
What should you serve your bird visitors for dinner? And how should you serve it? The shelves of supermarkets, home and garden stores, and specialty bird-feeding stores are stocked with bags, buckets, and cakes of many food types, as well as numerous different feeders. You may find the task of selecting the best foods and feeders a bit daunting.
We'll describe the basic feeder types, their pluses and minuses, and the types of birds they attract. We'll help you choose foods that the birds you want to attract enjoy the most. You'll find out where in your yard to position your feeder, and how to look after it, for the health and safety of your birds. Finally we offer suggestions about dealing with unwanted feeder visitors.
Types of Bird Feeders:
The easiest way to attract birds to your yard is to put up a bird feeder. There are many different ones on the market today. Most are made for seeds, but there are also specialty feeders for certain foods, such as sugar solution for hummingbirds, suet, or peanuts. Which should you choose? The answer depends on the kinds of birds you want to attract.
We'll show you the major feeder types and describe their benefits and shortcomings. Keep in mind that each style of feeder comes in a variety of models and sizes. Quality varies too—the ideal bird feeder is sturdy enough to withstand winter weather, tight enough to keep seeds dry, large enough to avoid constant refilling, and easy to assemble and clean. Plastic or metal feeders usually beat wooden ones in meeting all these requirements.
If you want to attract the greatest variety of birds to your yard, you'll want to use several different feeder types offering a variety of foods. Alternatively, you may want to attract certain bird species, but dissuade others. The following information will help you make the correct feeder choice.
Tray or Platform Feeder:
Any flat, raised surface onto which bird food is spread.
Trays attract most species of feeder birds, but they offer no protection against squirrels, chipmunks, rain, or snow. Plus the seed can quickly become soiled by droppings because birds stand right on top of it. Tray feeders placed near the ground are most likely to attract ground-feeding birds such as juncos, doves, jays, blackbirds, and sparrows. Tray feeders work well mounted on deck railings, posts, or stumps, and also can be suspended. Some models have a roof to provide some protection from the weather. Be sure your tray feeders have plenty of drainage holes.
Hopper or House Feeder:
Platform with walls and a roof, forming an enclosed "hopper."
This type protects seeds fairly well against the weather, but less well against squirrels. It also keeps seed cleaner. Hopper feeders are attractive to most feeder birds, including finches, jays, cardinals, buntings, grosbeaks, sparrows, chickadees, and titmice. Most hoppers hold a good quantity of seed. Few are weatherproof, however, so the food may get wet and moldy if it sits for a few days. Hopper feeders can be mounted on a pole or suspended.
Window Feeder:
Usually made of clear plastic and suction-cupped to a window.
This type of feeder attracts finches, sparrows, chickadees, and titmice, allowing close-up views of the birds as they come to feed. Be aware, though, that the birds feed while standing on a pile of seeds inside the feeder, so the food risks becoming soiled.
Tube Feeder:
Hollow cylinder, usually of clear plastic, with multiple feeding ports and perches.
Tube feeders keep seed fairly clean and dry, and if they have metal feeding ports they are somewhat squirrel resistant. The birds attracted depend on the size of the perches under the feeding ports: short perches accommodate small birds such as sparrows, grosbeaks, chickadees, titmice, and finches (such as the familiar House Finch), but exclude larger birds such as grackles and jays. Styles with perches above the feeding ports are designed for seed-eating birds that like to feed hanging upside down such as goldfinches, while dissuading others.
Nyjer Feeder:
Special tube feeder designed with extra-small openings to dispense tiny nyjer seeds.
Nyjer is also known as thistle or niger. These feeders attract a variety of small songbirds, especially finches and redpolls. Nyjer "socks"—fine-mesh bags to which birds cling to extract the seeds—are also available.
Suet Feeder:
Wire-mesh cage or plastic-mesh bag, such as an onion bag, which holds suet or suet mixture.
This type of feeder can be nailed or tied to a tree trunk. It can also be suspended. Suet can also be smeared into knotholes.
Suet feeders attract a variety of woodpeckers and nuthatches, as well as chickadees, titmice, jays, and starlings. Suet cages that are open only at the bottom are starling-proof; they force birds to hang upside down while feeding, something starlings find difficult.
Hummingbird Feeder:
A container to hold artificial nectar or sugar solution; may be bottle or saucer style.
The bottle or tube type of hummingbird feeder is usually made of glass or plastic, often with red plastic flowers and bee-guards (little plastic screens that keep insects away from the sugar solution) on the feeding ports. Saucer types are usually plastic.
Make sure the feeder is easy to take apart and clean, because it should be washed frequently. For example, the fill hole should be large enough for you to reach in while cleaning.
You can make your own hummingbird feeder with a bottle, rubber cork, and the drinking tube from a pet hamster water bottle. The color red attracts hummingbirds, so paint the feeding port with red nail polish or tie red ribbons to the feeder.
Saucer-shaped hummingbird feeders have feeding ports in the top, making them bee-and wasp-proof.
Saucer feeders are better than bottle feeders in direct sunlight. Bottle feeders tend to leak in the sun—air trapped in the top of the bottle expands as it warms and pushes the nectar out. In fact, you should avoid locating your hummingbird feeder in direct sun—it causes the sugar solution to spoil rapidly.
Choosing Bird Food
With such a variety of bird foods on the market it's often hard to choose which is best. Here we'll help you select the right type of food for the birds you want to attract.
In most areas, black-oil sunflower seed attracts the greatest variety of birds. It has a high meat-to-shell ratio and a high fat content. It's small and thin-shelled, making it easy for small birds, such as the Tufted Titmouse at right, to handle and crack. Striped sunflower seeds are larger with thicker seed coats.
Although sunflower seeds are the all-round favorite, particularly for tree-dwelling birds, some birds prefer different foods. Blackbirds relish corn, for instance, whereas doves, like many ground-feeding birds, prefer white millet or red milo. Certain species may even have different food preferences in different parts of their range.
Store your bird food carefully. If you buy a lot of seed, keep it in a dry, cool place, in a rodent-proof, metal can. Check the seed often for mold. Throw out any seed that is questionable.
Food Preferences of Common Feeder Birds
Results based in part on the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's Seed Preference Test, a National Science Experiment sponsored by the National Science Foundation, launched in winter 1993-1994.
Additional information on menus for wild birds and other bird feeding tips from the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology are found at: htpt://www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/AboutBirdsandFeeding/BirdFoods.htm.
To learn more about the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's 1993-1994 Seed Preference Test, read the following Birdscope articles:
Birds Like Millet and Milo, Too! by Kenneth V. Rosenberg and Rick Bonney (1994).
The National Science Experiments: Seed Preference Test yields exciting results.
Seed Preferences: East Versus West. By Kenneth V. Rosenberg and Andre A. Dhondt (1995). Why do birds in different places like different foods?
Choosing Bird Food: Seed Types
Corn:
Dried whole kernel corn is a favorite food of jays, pigeons, doves, turkeys, pheasants, and quail. Cracked corn is easier for smaller birds to eat, and will attract blackbirds, finches, and sparrows, as well as the larger birds mentioned above.
Millet:
There are two types of millet: red and white. Most birds find white proso millet more attractive than the red variety. Millet appeals to many ground-feeding birds, such as doves, juncos, and sparrows. However, it also attracts undesirable non-native species such as European Starlings and House Sparrows.
Milo:
The large, reddish, round seeds of milo (or sorghum) are often used as "filler" in birdseed mixes. Most birds will only eat it if there's nothing better. Be aware that it also may attract undesirable aggressive birds such as cowbirds, starlings, and grackles.
Safflower:
A particular favorite of cardinals, safflower is often more expensive than sunflower seed. Grosbeaks, sparrows, and doves also like it. It's sometimes suggested for dissuading undesirable species because it may have less appeal to starlings, House Sparrows, and squirrels.
Nyjer: (sometimes spelled "niger")
This is commonly known as thistle seed, although it's unrelated to native thistles. Its tiny seeds attract small finches such as goldfinches, siskins, and redpolls. Nyjer is expensive, so it's best offered in specially-designed thistle seed feeders, which have tiny feeding ports that prevent spilling and dissuade larger birds.
Sunflower:
Black-oil sunflower seed is the all-round favorite for bird feeders, particularly attractive to tree-dwelling birds. It has a high meat-to-shell ratio and is high in fat. Small size and thin shell make it easy for small birds, such as the Black-capped Chickadee, to handle and crack.
Striped sunflower seeds are larger and have thicker seed coats, making them more difficult for small birds to process.
Peanuts:
Titmice, chickadees, nuthatches, woodpeckers, cardinals, jays, many sparrows, and even Carolina Wrens are attracted to peanuts. They can be offered shelled or whole. Peanut feeders are specially-designed wire-mesh cages, often cylindrical.
Mixed Seed:
This is best sprinkled on the ground or onto platform feeders. Mixed seed typically contains high quantities of millet, preferred by ground-feeding birds. Many feeder birds will not eat millet. Likewise, ground-feeding birds that favor millet will not have access to it if it's in a feeder. Try filling hanging feeders with sunflower seeds and spreading mixed seed for ground-feeding birds.
Hummingbirds and Nectar
Flower nectar is the principle natural food of hummingbirds. If you provide hummingbird feeders, you will need to make your own artificial "nectar." Since hummingbirds also eat insects, you don't need to purchase expensive commercial hummingbird nectars that have added vitamins and minerals. A sugar solution is adequate.
Recipe:
To make sugar solution for hummingbirds, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water (boil the water before measuring, because some water will evaporate away in the process). When the mixture is cool it is ready for use. You can store extra sugar water in your refrigerator for up to one week, but left longer it may become moldy.
Don't add red food coloring to the sugar solution—it is unnecessary and possibly harmful to the birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a red ribbon on top, will attract the hummingbirds just as well.
Important Tips
Change sugar solution every three to five days to prevent mold and deadly fermentation.
Clean the hummingbird feeder often.
NEVER use honey or artificial sweeteners in hummingbird feeders. Honey grows mold that can be dangerous—even fatal—to hummingbirds, and sweeteners will not provide the energy and nutrition that birds require.
Do not put any kind of oil around feeding portals to deter insects. Oil might contaminate the nectar, or get on the birds' plumage ruining its insulative properties. If bees, wasps, or ants become a problem, try moving the feeder
Choosing Bird Food: Other Foods
Suet is particularly attractive to woodpeckers, such as the Red-bellied Woodpecker, but many insect-eating birds—nuthatches, chickadees, wrens, creepers, kinglets, and even cardinals—are fond of it, too. It's a high-energy food, much appreciated in cold weather.
Suet is the hard fat surrounding beef kidneys. It is inexpensive and available from butchers and at many supermarket meat counters. Commercial suet cakes are manufactured from "rendered" suet, a process in which it is melted, cooked, and strained, making it less prone to melting and spoilage.
Avoid offering unprocessed suet in hot weather—it quickly becomes rancid. If you want to offer suet year-round, commercial suet cakes are preferable, but check the package recommendations. Another suggestion is to put out only small amounts of suet, keeping the rest refrigerated until needed. A good warm-weather alternative to suet is a mixture of one part peanut butter to five parts cornmeal.
Offer suet in a plastic mesh bag (like the sort onions are packaged in) or a wire basket or cage (this keeps the raccoons and squirrels out), suspended from a branch or attached to a tree trunk.
Starlings are very fond of suet. To dissuade these undesirables, offer suet in a feeder that requires birds to feed hanging upside down. Woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches will access it easily, but starlings cannot.
Fruit and Fruit Seeds:
Birds such as robins, thrushes, waxwings, and bluebirds usually don't visit seed feeders because seeds are not a major part of their diet. But you can attract them with fruit. Mockingbirds, tanagers, and catbirds may be attracted too. Try raisins or currants softened by soaking in water. Offer diced fresh fruit, such as apples, melons, or grapes. Orange halves are particularly desirable, especially to orioles, which also go for grape jelly.
You can also save your Halloween pumpkin seeds, and other squash or melon seeds, for the birds. Some relish these more than black-oil sunflower seeds. Spread them out to let them dry and then run them through the food processor. This makes it easier for smaller birds to eat them.
Leftovers:
Birds also will eat stale bread and other leftovers. Just make sure they're not moldy or they may harm the birds. Be aware, too, that table scraps may attract nuisance species such as European Starlings, House Sparrows, rats, or raccoons.
Grit and Minerals:
Putting out grit will attract birds because they need it as a digestive aid. Birds, especially the seed eaters, "chew" their food in their gizzard, a highly muscular part of the stomach. To assist in the grinding, they sometimes swallow hard materials such as tiny stones, sand, ashes, fragments of charcoal, or broken oyster shells. You can purchase grit at most feed and pet stores.
Eggshells are another source of grit, plus they provide calcium, an important mineral for birds in the spring when they are producing their own eggs. If you provide eggshells, be sure to bake them for 20 minutes at 250 degrees F to kill Salmonella bacteria. Let the eggshells cool, and then crush them into pieces smaller than a dime. Offer the eggshells on the ground, in a dish, or on a low platform feeder, separate from your seed feeders.
To learn more about birds and calcium, read the following Birdscope articles:
Birds and Calcium , by Tracey L. Kast, Paul E. Allen, and Andre A. Dhondt (1998). Results of the Lab's Birds and Calcium Project show that calcium use varies among species.
Feeding Calcium to Birds, by Andre A. Dhondt (1999). The Lab's Birds and Calcium Project determines we should offer calcium on the ground and on platform feeders.
3. Keep feed and feeding areas clean.
To help reduce the possibility of disease transmission in birds, clean feeders and feeding areas at least once a month. Plastic and metal feeders can go in the dishwasher, or rinse these and other styles with a 10% solution of bleach and warm water. Scrub birdbaths with a brush and replace water every three to five days to discourage mosquito reproduction. Rake up and dispose of seed hulls under feeders. Moving feeders periodically helps prevent the buildup of waste on the ground. Keep seed and foods dry; discard food that smells musty, is wet or looks moldy. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned every three to five days, or every other day in warm weather. It’s good hygiene to wash your hands after filling or cleaning feeders.
Here is some additional information prepared by the National Audubon Science – Audubon At Home staff (http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home).
Feeder/Birdbath Maintenance
Cleaning birdfeeders and birdbaths is a crucial practice in preventing the spread of disease between birds. Recently, scientists noted that the spread of Trichomonad protozoan parasites, which cause a disease termed Trichomoniasis, was on the rise especially among mourning dove and band-tailed pigeon populations in the West.
You may have a disease problem at your feeders if you notice that some birds are less alert or active, they feed less or cower on a feeder. They may also be reluctant to fly, and their feathers may appear disheveled. Birds afflicted with Trichomoniasis typically develop sores in their mouths and throats. Unable to swallow, they drop food or water contaminated with Trichomonads (which can live for up to five days in food and several hours in water) that other birds then consume, thus spreading the disease.
With the concern over this and other diseases, including Salmonellosis, Aspergillosis, and Avian Pox, which are easily transmitted at birdfeeders and birdbaths, the National Audubon Society recommends paying diligent attention to cleanliness in pursuit of responsible and rewarding bird feeding practices.
Disinfect your feeder and birdbath: To keep pathogens at bay, immerse your seed feeder or birdbath in a nine to one water-bleach (non-chlorine) solution, rinsing it thoroughly, one to two times per month . In the presence of outbreaks, disinfect twice as often.
Empty water from your birdbath every day: Brush or wipe it clean and rinse, then refill the birdbath with fresh water.
Discard old seed and hulls: When you clean your feeder, get rid of the old seed. Rake or sweep up any uneaten hulls on the ground. In winter, scraping off a few inches of snow will suffice. For busier stations, seed trays may be used to catch jettisoned hulls and seed.
Avoid overcrowding: If possible, provide more than one feeder and spread them out. Crowding only expedites the spread of disease, so give the birds variety and plenty of room.
Clean hummingbird feeders: In addition to the information provided above in the 6 Steps, another alternative is to wash hummingbird feeders with a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water about once a week. If your feeder has become dirty, try adding some grains of dry rice to the vinegar solution and shake vigorously. The grains act as a good abrasive. Rinse your feeder well with warm water three times before refilling with sugar solution.
4. Birds and chemicals don't mix.
Many pesticides, herbicides and fungicides are toxic to birds; avoid using these near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Always follow directions provided by chemical manufacturers. For additional information, visit your wild bird food retailer.
Here is additional information on protecting birds from pesticides, provided by the staff at the American Bird Conservancy (www.abcbirds.org).
Turn Your Backyard into a Sanctuary for Birds
Many chemicals can be toxic to wildlife. Pesticides, in particular, can be harmful to wild birds. In addition to killing birds, pesticides can also reduce breeding success, impair a bird's ability to migrate, and lead to physical deformities in chicks. However many insecticides, herbicides and fungicides are marketed for home and garden use. Below are some guidelines to help to limit the harmful impact of chemicals on birds and other wildlife.
Select native plants to grow in your garden. Native plants are well suited to the local climate and are more resistant to disease and pests, therefore requiring less maintenance and the use of fewer pesticides. In addition, nativeplants provide valuable food, cover and breeding habitat that will attract birds and other wildlife to your yard.
Be tolerant. Accept some damage from insects as a normal part of your garden. Insects are part of the natural ecosystem and provide important food for birds, frogs, dragonflies, bats, etc. Insects also serve as pollinators for flowers, fruits and vegetables.
Target specific pests. Before applying any chemicals make sure that you correctly identify the problem. For example, spraying an insecticide on a plant that is being damaged by a fungus will not correct the problem and can kill beneficial insects. Online resources or a local garden retailer can help you correctly identify the pest or problem and select the best treatment. If you must use a chemical select one that targets the specific pest. Broad spectrum pesticides will impact many species, not just the problem pest.
Choose the least toxic treatment. In many cases, the problem can be treated without the use of chemicals by adjusting your care and maintenance procedures (frequency of watering, timing of fertilizer applications, etc.), or by moving a plant to a different location (one with more sun or shade or with more or less moisture). Or you may be able to effectively reduce the problem by pruning affected areas or using a strong spray of water to dislodge pests from a plant. If you must use chemicals, select those that are only effective for a limited timeframe to reduce the amount of chemical in the environment.
Target your pesticide use. Only apply the chemical where it is needed. Spot treat the areas where the problem exists. If spraying a flowering plant with an insecticide, spray only the leaves and avoid the flowers which attract beneficial pollinators such as bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.
Do not use rat poisons. Rodent and vole populations can be safely eliminated by using snap traps or live-catch traps baited with apple or peanut butter. Rodents or voles that eat rat poison become sick, but do not die immediately. Predators and scavengers often eat the sick rodents resulting in secondary poisonings. Thousands of animals including hawks, owls, foxes, snakes and even dogs and cats die each year as a result of secondary poisoning from rat poisons.
Eliminate mosquito breeding areas in and around your yard. Spraying for mosquitoes does little to reduce mosquito populations and can have harmful effects on birds and people. To prevent mosquito reproduction, eliminate sources of standing water, unclog gutters, aerate ponds and change bird bath water every three days. If you have areas of standing water than can not be eliminated apply a less toxic larvicide, such as Bacillus thuringensus, to kill mosquitoes before they hatch.
Before applying fertilizers and other chemicals to your lawn have your soil tested. Contact your state's cooperative agricultural extension office. They generally do soil testing quickly and inexpensively and can tell you exactly what your lawn needs. If they determine that your lawn needs fertilizer, use a slow-release fertilizer, preferably in the autumn, since this will maintain a more natural soil chemistry and can help prevent pest outbreaks.
Minimize or move to eliminate your use of lawn chemicals. Applying several inches of mulch around plants is a safe and effective method for reducing weeds. Lawn and garden chemicals can enter nearby streams and waterways, killing aquatic vegetation and impacting stream ecology.
Always follow the directions carefully. When applying a lawn or garden chemical, always read the label carefully and apply the minimum amount required. Avoid using chemicals near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Remove or cover bird baths, bird feeders, bird houses and butterfly houses before applying chemicals. Excess application of chemicals may result in runoff into local waterways.
Dispose of the chemical containers safely. Follow the directions on the product label for proper disposal of all chemical containers and for proper cleaning of equipment. Never dump excess chemicals into storm drains.
5. Keep cats away from birds.
Scientists estimate that cats probably kill hundreds of millions of birds each year in the U.S. This is a big problem, but it’s easy to fix. Many people who enjoy feeding birds also love cats. The best solution is to keep cats indoors. They will lead longer, healthier lives, and your yard will be safer for birds. Install feeders in areas not readily accessible to cats or install fences or other barriers to help keep stray cats from feeder areas. Collar bells, de-clawing and keeping cats well fed will not solve the problem.
Here is additional information on the benefits of keeping cats indoors from the American Bird Conservancy, whose ground-breaking program Cats Indoors! is helping people make the world a better place for cats and birds (www.abcbirds.org).
Keeping Cats Indoors:
Good for Kitty,
Good for Birds,
Good for Neighbors
The majority of the nation’s 77 million pet cats are free to roam throughout their neighborhoods. However, as the U.S. becomes more urban- and suburban-ized, cat owners are becoming increasingly concerned about their pet’s safety, and with good reason. Outdoor cats are at risk of serious injury and disease, getting hit by cars, or getting lost, stolen, or poisoned. They also kill birds and other wildlife already struggling to survive in the habitat that remains. Most cat owners who let their cats outside do so because they believe that’s what they need to be happy. However, indoor cats can be happy too, and outdoor cats can become contented indoor pets.
SO YOU WANT TO BRING YOUR CAT INDOORS....
Making the transition from out to in: Keeping kittens indoors from the start is a very easy way to have a happy indoor cat. But, with practice and patience, even outdoor cats can be successfully kept indoors. Some people make the transition from outdoors to indoors gradually, bringing their cats inside for increasingly longer stays. Other people bring the cat in and shut the door for good. Either way, the key is to provide lots of attention and stimulation while the cat is indoors.
Geographic location may affect the schedule of change; a good time of year should be chosen to bring a cat indoors. In many parts of the country, the easiest time of year to make this conversion is during the cold winter months when the cat is more likely to want to be inside anyway. By the end of winter, the cat may be completely content to remain inside.
Outside excursions should be replaced with periods of special play time indoors. Supervised trips out on the patio can also make the transition from outside to inside a little easier. Cats need human companionship to be happy, and when they spend all their time out of doors, they get very little attention. An outdoor cat may welcome the indoors if he or she gets more love, attention, and play.
To keep a cat occupied indoors, provide secure cat condos which offer interesting places to lounge, play and scratch. Scratching posts, corrugated cardboard or sisal rope should also be provided for a cat to scratch. The cat should be praised for using them.
To encourage an ex-outdoor cat to exercise, interesting toys, especially those that are interactive, should be available. These usually consist of a long pole and attached line with fabric or feathers at the end of the line. Some cats enjoy searching for toys. If the cat likes to explore the house looking for “prey,” hide toys in various places so the cat can find them throughout the day. Be sure that the toys are not so small that they can be swallowed or get stuck in a cat’s throat. Cats also enjoy ping pong balls, paper bags and cardboard boxes.
Provide an indoor cat with fresh greens. Kits can be bought that include containers and seeds to grow, or plant pesticide-free alfalfa, grass, bird seed, or catnip in a container. This way, the cat can graze safely and not destroy house plants. Many cats will eat cooked string beans or peas cooled to a safe temperature, which is another way to give them greens.
Outdoor enclosures--the best of both worlds: Many cat owners who want their cat to enjoy the outdoors safely will provide an enclosure or run that the cat can access through a window or pet door. Such a facility gives the cat some of the advantages of being outside while minimizing the dangers. Outdoor enclosures can be made interesting and appealing by adding objects for the cat to explore, such as tree limbs, multilevel cat condos, tires, toys hanging from branches, and boxes in which the cat can curl up or hide. Search the internet for sources of enclosures.
Leash training: If the neighborhood is not overrun by free-roaming dogs, cat owners may want to train their cat to go outside on a harness and leash. It’s not exactly like walking a dog, but cats can learn to enjoy a leisurely stroll outside. A cat can get used to a harness by wearing it for short periods of time inside the house. Some people enjoy gardening or other time spent outdoors while their cats are nearby on a harness and lead. But, cats should never be left outside unsupervised while on a leash or lead.
Some cats may develop behavioral problems when they are no longer allowed outside. Most of these problems can be attributed to a change in routine that is too abrupt or a lack of attention and stimulation inside. Cat owners need to be patient and continue to praise the cat when playing with toys, using the scratching post and litter pan. If the cat becomes destructive or stops using the litter pan, a veterinarian or animal behaviorist should be consulted to find ways to solve the problem. These symptoms can also be attributed to boredom and loneliness.
When adopting a new cat, keep them inside from the beginning; otherwise, the cat may get lost. Using a long-range water pistol or a shake can when the cat asks to be let out is a very successful and harmless way to curb a cat from wanting to go outside.
Additional tips for a happy indoor cat: A cat’s claws should be trimmed every one to two weeks to keep the cat from damaging furniture, rugs and drapes, or artificial nail caps can be glued on every six to eight weeks. One litter pan per cat should be provided and the litter pan should be scooped daily. With non-clumping litter, change once or twice weekly; with clumping litter, change every two to four weeks. Many cats enjoy the companionship of another cat or compatible dog of the opposite sex. If you can make the financial and emotional commitment, you may want to consider adopting another companion animal for yourself and your cat.
WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT YOUR NEIGHBOR’S CAT ATTACKING BIRDS AND WILDLIFE IN YOUR YARD?
What if you have to deal with your neighbor’s cats getting into your yard, digging up and fouling your garden, spraying your bushes and deck, and killing birds at your feeders? Unfortunately, there aren’t any easy answers. But here are some suggestions that may help.
Ask your neighbor: The best solution is to ask your neighbor to keep their cat indoors or under their control when outside. Explain to them all the risks their cats face when they roam outdoors. American Bird Conservancy’s brochure, “Keeping Cats Indoors Isn’t Just For The Birds,” at gives more information on the benefits of keeping cats indoors. Share a copy with your neighbor.
Cat-proof fencing: If your cat-owning neighbor has a fenced in yard but refuses to keep their cat indoors or otherwise under control, perhaps you can convince them to install cat-proof fencing. This won’t prevent the cats from killing birds and other wildlife in their yard, but at least it will keep the cats from killing wildlife in your yard. Search the internet for sources of fencing.
Humanely trapping the cat: When all else fails, some people feel they have no choice but to trap their neighbor’s cat and take it to a shelter. You should check with local laws first, because in some areas, it is illegal to trap a neighbor’s cat, even if it is on your property. Also warn your neighbor that you plan to trap their cat if they refuse to control it. Many animal control agencies or shelters have humane live traps to lend to homeowners who need to trap a nuisance animal. Use bait such as sardines or tuna spread on newspaper or a paper plate, and put it in the back of the trap such that the cat must enter the trap to get the bait. Regularly check the trap, preferably every hour. A word of caution: well-fed cats can be hard to trap. You may also end up with non-target animals such as raccoons, opossums, or skunks, so avoid trapping at night. Also, minimize trauma to the cat by gently handling the trap, and put a cloth over it during transportation. Take the cat to your local shelter and tell them it’s your neighbor’s cat so that they can contact your neighbor. Never abandon the cat or harm it in any way. Be extremely careful not to get bitten or scratched, especially if you are trapping stray or feral cats, because they may carry rabies and other diseases
Working for laws to prohibit free-roaming cats: While this can be a multi-year effort, working for local cat ordinances to decrease a cat over-population problem or to prohibit free-roaming cats can be very effective, especially if the necessary funding for enforcement goes along with it. For more information, see the fact sheet, Get The Facts About Cat Law at: . For an example of a cat ordinance, see .
Sonic cat collar: The collar emits a high-pitched signal every 7 seconds to alert birds and other wildlife that a cat is near. A small field trial showed a 66% reduction in the number of birds killed, but it did not show a reduction in the number of small mammals killed. It is unknown whether a sonic cat collar would be effective in reducing cat predation on nestlings, fledglings, reptiles or amphibians, and it would not protect the cat from the hazards of roaming outdoors. Search the internet for sources of sonic cat collars
Fencing around bird feeders: Some people have found that putting poultry or rabbit wire fencing around bird feeders and bird baths is a very effective way to prevent cats from killing birds at these locations. The fence need only be 2 feet high and 4 feet in diameter. If a cat tries to jump over it, it gives birds a chance to fly away.
Hazelnut shells: Some people have had success in keeping cats away from feeders by placing hazelnuts under them. Cats avoid walking on hazelnut shells because the shells are sharp. The shells last over 5 years, prevent weeds, and are an attractive color.
More tips on feeding birds: Keep feeders well away from bushes and underbrush where cats can hide, and regularly clean feeders to prevent fungus and mold from growing in the seed. If free-roaming cats remain a problem at your feeders, please discontinue feeding the birds. You are doing more harm by attracting birds into a yard where there are cats.
Spraying with a garden hose: Some people try to discourage cats from getting into their yard by spraying them with a garden hose. This will only be an effective deterrent if the cat gets sprayed with water every time it comes into your yard.
What we know doesn’t work: Putting bells on a cat’s collar does not prevent predation on birds and other wildlife. A cat can learn to silently stalk its prey. Even if the bell does ring, a bird would not necessarily associate the sound with danger, and a bell would do nothing to protect young animals. Feeding a cat also does not prevent predation. Scientific studies have proven that well-fed cats still kill wildlife because the urge to hunt and the urge to eat are controlled by different portions of a cat’s brain. De-clawing a cat does not prevent predation. A free-roaming de-clawed cat in a scientific study in Wichita, KS killed more birds than any other cat in the study.
Perhaps you would like to start a Cats Indoors! Campaign in your community to raise awareness about the problem of free-roaming cats. For more information on cat predation on wildlife and hazards to free-roaming cats, as well as posters, print and radio Public Service Announcements (PSAs) and more, see
Adapted from, “How to Make Your Outdoor Cat a Happy Indoor Cat” and “What to do About Your Neighbor’s Cat in Your Yard” by American Bird Conservancy.
6. Reduce window collisions.
Collisions with glass windows kill millions of wild birds every year. Depending on their size and location, some windows reflect the sky or vegetation, and birds are fooled into thinking they can fly through them. To eliminate this problem, identify windows that cause collisions (typically larger, reflective windows, those near the ground, or those that “look through” the house). Attaching decorative decals or other decorations to the outside surface of the glass can reduce reflections. Feeder birds fleeing predators are vulnerable to window collisions. If this is happening at your house, consider moving feeders within three feet of the windows so that birds cannot accelerate to injury level speeds while flying away. Problem windows can be covered with a screen so that birds bounce off, rather than hit the glass.
Here is additional information provided by the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology (www.cornell.birds.edu).
Windows Can Be Deadly For Birds.
Ornithologists estimate that up to 100 million birds are killed each year by collisions with windows. These collisions usually involve small songbirds, such as finches, that may fall unnoticed to the ground. Sometimes the birds are merely stunned and recover in a few moments. Often, though, window hits lead to severe internal injuries and death.
Why Birds Collide With Windows.
It's thought that birds hit windows because they see the landscape—trees, sky, clouds—reflected on the glass surface but do not realize that a hard, transparent surface lies between them and that apparent open space. Panicking birds, fleeing for cover to escape predators, are even more likely to fly into windows.
A related problem—more annoying than lethal—occurs when birds attack windows. It usually occurs in spring, and is due to birds' urge to defend breeding territories. The male cardinal pecking at your window is fighting what he perceives as an intruding male—he doesn't understand that it's his own reflection. This territorial reaction may be so strong that the bird may exhaust himself, but it usually doesn't result in fatal injury.
How to Help a Window Collision Victim
If you find a bird dazed from a window hit, place it in a dark container with a lid such as a shoebox, and leave it somewhere warm and quiet, out of reach of pets and other predators. If the weather is extremely cold, you may need to take it inside. Do not try to give it food and water, and resist handling it as much as possible. The darkness will calm the bird while it revives, which should occur within a few minutes, unless it is seriously injured. Release it outside as soon as it appears awake and alert. If the bird doesn't recover in a couple of hours, you should take it to a veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator. Remember that, technically, it is illegal to handle a migratory bird without a permit.
Safeguarding Your Windows for Birds
Window strikes are something you should be aware of and try to prevent, especially if you feed wild birds in your backyard. Start by identifying which window is the problem—large picture windows are usually the worst culprits. Go outside near your feeders and look at your windows from a bird's point of view. If you see branches or sky reflected in the glass when you look at your window, the birds can as well. Can you see through the window into the house? If so, the birds can too. Is there another window on the opposite wall of the house? It may give birds the illusion of a fly-through passage to the habitat outside.
Try some of these ideas to make your windows safer:
• Relocate feeders and other attractants.
You can start by simply moving your feeders and birdbaths to new locations. Bird strikes usually occur at particular windows, so moving feeders farther away from them may solve the problem entirely. You can also try placing your feeders much closer to the glass—if a feeder is just a foot or two from a window, birds may still fly into it, but not with enough force to injure themselves.
• Avoid apparent visual tunnels.
Bright windows on the opposite wall from your picture window may give the illusion of a visual tunnel through which birds may try to fly. Try making one window less transparent by keeping a shade drawn or a door closed, or by altering the lighting inside the house. You can also make the glass less transparent by taping paper or cardboard on the inside of the panes—unsightly, but a good temporary measure until you can find a better solution.
• Break up external reflections with stickers or plastic wrap.
Break up window reflections by sticking objects to the outside of the glass. Black plastic silhouettes of a falcon, hawk, or owl sometimes work, not because they look like predators but because they disrupt the window's reflectivity. Semi-transparent stickers can also do the job—some have decorative bird shapes, or look like spider webs. Sheets of plastic food wrap may work too.
• Disrupt reflections with spray-on materials or soap.
Try spraying fake Christmas snow on the outside of the window, or drawing streaks across it with bar soap. Again, the goal is to break up external reflections.
• Attach branches in front of windows.
For a more natural look, attach dead tree branches in front of your window. They may cause the birds to slow down and avoid the window as they fly toward it. You can arrange the branches so they don't obscure your view.
• Attach hanging objects to deter birds.
Hang lightweight, shiny items in front of the window so they move in the breeze and dissuade birds from approaching. Try strips of shiny, reflective plastic (hung a few inches apart), old aluminum pie plates, or unwanted compact discs.
• Reduce reflections with trees or awnings.
Reduce the amount of light reaching a problem window by planting shade trees close to it. This will help prevent reflections. However, it will also obstruct your view. Trees take time to grow, so consider shading your window with an awning instead. Either one may help birds by reducing the amount of sky reflected in windows.
• Cover windows with netting.
Place netting over the window. It provides a physical barrier to birds flying into the glass, yet won't obstruct your view. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology installed crop netting—the kind used to keep birds away from fruit trees—in front of a large picture window next to the bird-feeding garden. The result? No more dead and injured birds. Small-mesh netting is best—5/8" (1.6 cm) in diameter—so if birds do fly into it they won't get their heads or bodies entangled but will bounce off unharmed. You can mount the netting on a frame, such as a storm-window frame, for easy installation and removal. You could also try insect screening material.
• Install windows tilting downwards.
If you're installing new windows, ask your contractor to position them slightly off vertical, facing downwards. Then the outer window surface will reflect the ground rather than the sky and trees, but won't affect your view from inside the house. Be aware, though, that this may void your warranty. Your contractor or architect may have other useful ideas about how to minimize habitat reflection in your windows.
www.backyardbirdcare.org
Habitat loss is the biggest challenge facing birds. You can help by making your neighborhood more attractive to birds by landscaping with native plants that provide natural food sources, shelter from the elements and predators, and nesting sites. Providing feeders, nest boxes and water also benefits birds. To learn how, stop by your local wild bird food retailer.
Here is some additional information prepared by the National Audubon Science – Audubon At Home staff (http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home).
Bird Habitat Necessities
FOOD
Natural sources: Nothing beats natural, native vegetation to feed the birds of your area. Plant a variety of native plants that supply food in the form of seeds or fruits year-round. Native plants also provide homes for insects, which in turn become meals for birds. Even the way you maintain your garden can supply additional food sources. For instance, leaves raked into your garden bed and under shrubs can provide foraging areas for ground-feeding birds such as sparrows and juncos.
Supplemental sources: Millions of people enjoy feeding birds, and feeders can help birds in especially harsh winters. A feeding station with a variety of bird feeders suited to the eating habits of different species will attract the greatest number of species. For instance, some birds feed on the ground, others perch; some prefer sunflower seeds, others like Nyjer, suet, or nectar.
WATER
All birds need water for drinking and for bathing. By providing a clean, fresh source, you will attract more species than will visit bird feeders.
Natural sources: If you have a natural water source on your property, such as a stream or wetland, enhance its attractiveness and wildlife value by protecting and restoring native plant species and allowing the vegetation along the banks to grow high to create a buffer zone.
Supplemental sources: Bird baths are a simple, popular way to provide water, with endless designs available at garden centers and wild bird supply stores. The sides should incline gently to a depth of no more than two to three inches. The surface should be rough for better footing. To protect vulnerable bathing birds from lurking predators, locate the bath some distance from cover, about 15 feet is a good distance. Change the water every few days and keep the bath scrubbed clean. Birds are attracted to the sound of running water and a drip or misting feature will increase the number of visitors. Water heaters will keep the water free of ice during winter months in colder climates.
Ponds and Water Gardens: The creation of these water elements will take some work but, done well, they can attract many species. Ponds for birds should be shallow, with gently sloping shorelines.
NESTING
Birds will remain in your habitat during the breeding season if they have places to nest and raise young. Different species have different requirements; some nest in cavities, many others in open nests found on ledges or in a tree crotch, and others nest on the ground. Get to know which species are likely to nest in your area and provide the appropriate habitat or structure.
Natural sources: Native trees and shrubs provide good nesting areas for many species, from those that nest in holes to those that create cup-shaped nests in the crotches of branches to those that build nests at the tops of the canopy. Include a mix of evergreen and deciduous plants, a hedgerow, and vines. For grassland consider a meadow. Where safety permits, allow snags — dead trees — to remain standing. Woodpeckers and others excavate the rotting wood looking for insects. Cavity-nesting birds use the resulting holes.
Supplemental sources: Nest boxes make a wonderful addition to a yard, allowing you to easily watch a family raise its young. Wrens, swallows, bluebirds, Purple Martins, chickadees, and titmice are some of the species that readily use nest boxes. Identify the species of bird you’d like to attract to determine the correct size of the entrance hole needed. You may want to consider erecting a shelf-style structure for species such as robins and phoebes. Nest boxes should be mounted on a pole, fence post, or tree. Height of the nest depends on the species. For most backyard cavity nesters, a general height of at least five feet is recommended. Ventilation and drainage holes are necessary, as is access to the interior to allow periodic cleaning. Baffles and metal guards to deter predators are encouraged. You can assist birds in building their nests by supplying some of the materials they seek, such as twigs; short lengths of string, yarn, and thread; cotton; hair brushed from a pet; and sphagnum moss. Leave the offerings in a tray or in an onion net bag hung from a tree.
SHELTER
Birds need places where they can hide from predators and inclement weather. Trees, shrubs, meadows, and even rock walls provide such shelter.
Natural sources: Native trees and shrubs of different densities and heights give birds places of retreat and safety. In winter, native evergreens, hedgerows, and dense thickets offer critical cover. Place feeding stations close enough to vegetation so that birds can make a quick escape but far enough to allow for a wide visual field for watching possible threats.
Supplemental sources: If your yard is lacking appropriate shelter for wildlife, create a brush pile from fallen branches and leaves. Toss your discarded Christmas tree a few feet away from the feeder, far enough so that a lurking cat can’t pounce from behind it onto a ground-feeding bird but close enough for the birds to find speedy cover. The nooks and crannies of a stone wall, rock pile or stack of firewood can also provide hiding places and additional forage. You can also erect boxes designed specifically for roosting, with the entrance hole near the bottom so that heat doesn’t escape.
2. Prepare a proper menu.
Providing the appropriate foods year round will attract more birds to your yard and help ensure that they have a safe and nutritious diet. Refill feeders regularly with food desired by birds in your area. To pick the best menu, stop by your wild bird food retailer.
Here is additional information on menus for wild birds and other bird feeding tips from the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology (www.birds.cornell.edu).
Feeding Wild Birds
If you have a bird feeder in your backyard, you're in good company. Bird watching is one of America's fastest-growing hobbies, and surveys show that nearly half the households in the United States provide food for wild birds.
The appeal is obvious—by feeding birds we bring them close so we can see them more easily. Their colorful, lively company brightens up our lives, especially through the dreary days of winter.
Setting up a backyard bird feeder can make birds' lives easier, too. In much of North America, winter is a difficult time for birds. Finding food can be especially challenging during periods of extreme cold.
What should you serve your bird visitors for dinner? And how should you serve it? The shelves of supermarkets, home and garden stores, and specialty bird-feeding stores are stocked with bags, buckets, and cakes of many food types, as well as numerous different feeders. You may find the task of selecting the best foods and feeders a bit daunting.
We'll describe the basic feeder types, their pluses and minuses, and the types of birds they attract. We'll help you choose foods that the birds you want to attract enjoy the most. You'll find out where in your yard to position your feeder, and how to look after it, for the health and safety of your birds. Finally we offer suggestions about dealing with unwanted feeder visitors.
Types of Bird Feeders:
The easiest way to attract birds to your yard is to put up a bird feeder. There are many different ones on the market today. Most are made for seeds, but there are also specialty feeders for certain foods, such as sugar solution for hummingbirds, suet, or peanuts. Which should you choose? The answer depends on the kinds of birds you want to attract.
We'll show you the major feeder types and describe their benefits and shortcomings. Keep in mind that each style of feeder comes in a variety of models and sizes. Quality varies too—the ideal bird feeder is sturdy enough to withstand winter weather, tight enough to keep seeds dry, large enough to avoid constant refilling, and easy to assemble and clean. Plastic or metal feeders usually beat wooden ones in meeting all these requirements.
If you want to attract the greatest variety of birds to your yard, you'll want to use several different feeder types offering a variety of foods. Alternatively, you may want to attract certain bird species, but dissuade others. The following information will help you make the correct feeder choice.
Tray or Platform Feeder:
Any flat, raised surface onto which bird food is spread.
Trays attract most species of feeder birds, but they offer no protection against squirrels, chipmunks, rain, or snow. Plus the seed can quickly become soiled by droppings because birds stand right on top of it. Tray feeders placed near the ground are most likely to attract ground-feeding birds such as juncos, doves, jays, blackbirds, and sparrows. Tray feeders work well mounted on deck railings, posts, or stumps, and also can be suspended. Some models have a roof to provide some protection from the weather. Be sure your tray feeders have plenty of drainage holes.
Hopper or House Feeder:
Platform with walls and a roof, forming an enclosed "hopper."
This type protects seeds fairly well against the weather, but less well against squirrels. It also keeps seed cleaner. Hopper feeders are attractive to most feeder birds, including finches, jays, cardinals, buntings, grosbeaks, sparrows, chickadees, and titmice. Most hoppers hold a good quantity of seed. Few are weatherproof, however, so the food may get wet and moldy if it sits for a few days. Hopper feeders can be mounted on a pole or suspended.
Window Feeder:
Usually made of clear plastic and suction-cupped to a window.
This type of feeder attracts finches, sparrows, chickadees, and titmice, allowing close-up views of the birds as they come to feed. Be aware, though, that the birds feed while standing on a pile of seeds inside the feeder, so the food risks becoming soiled.
Tube Feeder:
Hollow cylinder, usually of clear plastic, with multiple feeding ports and perches.
Tube feeders keep seed fairly clean and dry, and if they have metal feeding ports they are somewhat squirrel resistant. The birds attracted depend on the size of the perches under the feeding ports: short perches accommodate small birds such as sparrows, grosbeaks, chickadees, titmice, and finches (such as the familiar House Finch), but exclude larger birds such as grackles and jays. Styles with perches above the feeding ports are designed for seed-eating birds that like to feed hanging upside down such as goldfinches, while dissuading others.
Nyjer Feeder:
Special tube feeder designed with extra-small openings to dispense tiny nyjer seeds.
Nyjer is also known as thistle or niger. These feeders attract a variety of small songbirds, especially finches and redpolls. Nyjer "socks"—fine-mesh bags to which birds cling to extract the seeds—are also available.
Suet Feeder:
Wire-mesh cage or plastic-mesh bag, such as an onion bag, which holds suet or suet mixture.
This type of feeder can be nailed or tied to a tree trunk. It can also be suspended. Suet can also be smeared into knotholes.
Suet feeders attract a variety of woodpeckers and nuthatches, as well as chickadees, titmice, jays, and starlings. Suet cages that are open only at the bottom are starling-proof; they force birds to hang upside down while feeding, something starlings find difficult.
Hummingbird Feeder:
A container to hold artificial nectar or sugar solution; may be bottle or saucer style.
The bottle or tube type of hummingbird feeder is usually made of glass or plastic, often with red plastic flowers and bee-guards (little plastic screens that keep insects away from the sugar solution) on the feeding ports. Saucer types are usually plastic.
Make sure the feeder is easy to take apart and clean, because it should be washed frequently. For example, the fill hole should be large enough for you to reach in while cleaning.
You can make your own hummingbird feeder with a bottle, rubber cork, and the drinking tube from a pet hamster water bottle. The color red attracts hummingbirds, so paint the feeding port with red nail polish or tie red ribbons to the feeder.
Saucer-shaped hummingbird feeders have feeding ports in the top, making them bee-and wasp-proof.
Saucer feeders are better than bottle feeders in direct sunlight. Bottle feeders tend to leak in the sun—air trapped in the top of the bottle expands as it warms and pushes the nectar out. In fact, you should avoid locating your hummingbird feeder in direct sun—it causes the sugar solution to spoil rapidly.
Choosing Bird Food
With such a variety of bird foods on the market it's often hard to choose which is best. Here we'll help you select the right type of food for the birds you want to attract.
In most areas, black-oil sunflower seed attracts the greatest variety of birds. It has a high meat-to-shell ratio and a high fat content. It's small and thin-shelled, making it easy for small birds, such as the Tufted Titmouse at right, to handle and crack. Striped sunflower seeds are larger with thicker seed coats.
Although sunflower seeds are the all-round favorite, particularly for tree-dwelling birds, some birds prefer different foods. Blackbirds relish corn, for instance, whereas doves, like many ground-feeding birds, prefer white millet or red milo. Certain species may even have different food preferences in different parts of their range.
Store your bird food carefully. If you buy a lot of seed, keep it in a dry, cool place, in a rodent-proof, metal can. Check the seed often for mold. Throw out any seed that is questionable.
Food Preferences of Common Feeder Birds
Results based in part on the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's Seed Preference Test, a National Science Experiment sponsored by the National Science Foundation, launched in winter 1993-1994.
Additional information on menus for wild birds and other bird feeding tips from the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology are found at: htpt://www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/AboutBirdsandFeeding/BirdFoods.htm.
To learn more about the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's 1993-1994 Seed Preference Test, read the following Birdscope articles:
Birds Like Millet and Milo, Too! by Kenneth V. Rosenberg and Rick Bonney (1994).
The National Science Experiments: Seed Preference Test yields exciting results.
Seed Preferences: East Versus West. By Kenneth V. Rosenberg and Andre A. Dhondt (1995). Why do birds in different places like different foods?
Choosing Bird Food: Seed Types
Corn:
Dried whole kernel corn is a favorite food of jays, pigeons, doves, turkeys, pheasants, and quail. Cracked corn is easier for smaller birds to eat, and will attract blackbirds, finches, and sparrows, as well as the larger birds mentioned above.
Millet:
There are two types of millet: red and white. Most birds find white proso millet more attractive than the red variety. Millet appeals to many ground-feeding birds, such as doves, juncos, and sparrows. However, it also attracts undesirable non-native species such as European Starlings and House Sparrows.
Milo:
The large, reddish, round seeds of milo (or sorghum) are often used as "filler" in birdseed mixes. Most birds will only eat it if there's nothing better. Be aware that it also may attract undesirable aggressive birds such as cowbirds, starlings, and grackles.
Safflower:
A particular favorite of cardinals, safflower is often more expensive than sunflower seed. Grosbeaks, sparrows, and doves also like it. It's sometimes suggested for dissuading undesirable species because it may have less appeal to starlings, House Sparrows, and squirrels.
Nyjer: (sometimes spelled "niger")
This is commonly known as thistle seed, although it's unrelated to native thistles. Its tiny seeds attract small finches such as goldfinches, siskins, and redpolls. Nyjer is expensive, so it's best offered in specially-designed thistle seed feeders, which have tiny feeding ports that prevent spilling and dissuade larger birds.
Sunflower:
Black-oil sunflower seed is the all-round favorite for bird feeders, particularly attractive to tree-dwelling birds. It has a high meat-to-shell ratio and is high in fat. Small size and thin shell make it easy for small birds, such as the Black-capped Chickadee, to handle and crack.
Striped sunflower seeds are larger and have thicker seed coats, making them more difficult for small birds to process.
Peanuts:
Titmice, chickadees, nuthatches, woodpeckers, cardinals, jays, many sparrows, and even Carolina Wrens are attracted to peanuts. They can be offered shelled or whole. Peanut feeders are specially-designed wire-mesh cages, often cylindrical.
Mixed Seed:
This is best sprinkled on the ground or onto platform feeders. Mixed seed typically contains high quantities of millet, preferred by ground-feeding birds. Many feeder birds will not eat millet. Likewise, ground-feeding birds that favor millet will not have access to it if it's in a feeder. Try filling hanging feeders with sunflower seeds and spreading mixed seed for ground-feeding birds.
Hummingbirds and Nectar
Flower nectar is the principle natural food of hummingbirds. If you provide hummingbird feeders, you will need to make your own artificial "nectar." Since hummingbirds also eat insects, you don't need to purchase expensive commercial hummingbird nectars that have added vitamins and minerals. A sugar solution is adequate.
Recipe:
To make sugar solution for hummingbirds, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water (boil the water before measuring, because some water will evaporate away in the process). When the mixture is cool it is ready for use. You can store extra sugar water in your refrigerator for up to one week, but left longer it may become moldy.
Don't add red food coloring to the sugar solution—it is unnecessary and possibly harmful to the birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a red ribbon on top, will attract the hummingbirds just as well.
Important Tips
Change sugar solution every three to five days to prevent mold and deadly fermentation.
Clean the hummingbird feeder often.
NEVER use honey or artificial sweeteners in hummingbird feeders. Honey grows mold that can be dangerous—even fatal—to hummingbirds, and sweeteners will not provide the energy and nutrition that birds require.
Do not put any kind of oil around feeding portals to deter insects. Oil might contaminate the nectar, or get on the birds' plumage ruining its insulative properties. If bees, wasps, or ants become a problem, try moving the feeder
Choosing Bird Food: Other Foods
Suet is particularly attractive to woodpeckers, such as the Red-bellied Woodpecker, but many insect-eating birds—nuthatches, chickadees, wrens, creepers, kinglets, and even cardinals—are fond of it, too. It's a high-energy food, much appreciated in cold weather.
Suet is the hard fat surrounding beef kidneys. It is inexpensive and available from butchers and at many supermarket meat counters. Commercial suet cakes are manufactured from "rendered" suet, a process in which it is melted, cooked, and strained, making it less prone to melting and spoilage.
Avoid offering unprocessed suet in hot weather—it quickly becomes rancid. If you want to offer suet year-round, commercial suet cakes are preferable, but check the package recommendations. Another suggestion is to put out only small amounts of suet, keeping the rest refrigerated until needed. A good warm-weather alternative to suet is a mixture of one part peanut butter to five parts cornmeal.
Offer suet in a plastic mesh bag (like the sort onions are packaged in) or a wire basket or cage (this keeps the raccoons and squirrels out), suspended from a branch or attached to a tree trunk.
Starlings are very fond of suet. To dissuade these undesirables, offer suet in a feeder that requires birds to feed hanging upside down. Woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches will access it easily, but starlings cannot.
Fruit and Fruit Seeds:
Birds such as robins, thrushes, waxwings, and bluebirds usually don't visit seed feeders because seeds are not a major part of their diet. But you can attract them with fruit. Mockingbirds, tanagers, and catbirds may be attracted too. Try raisins or currants softened by soaking in water. Offer diced fresh fruit, such as apples, melons, or grapes. Orange halves are particularly desirable, especially to orioles, which also go for grape jelly.
You can also save your Halloween pumpkin seeds, and other squash or melon seeds, for the birds. Some relish these more than black-oil sunflower seeds. Spread them out to let them dry and then run them through the food processor. This makes it easier for smaller birds to eat them.
Leftovers:
Birds also will eat stale bread and other leftovers. Just make sure they're not moldy or they may harm the birds. Be aware, too, that table scraps may attract nuisance species such as European Starlings, House Sparrows, rats, or raccoons.
Grit and Minerals:
Putting out grit will attract birds because they need it as a digestive aid. Birds, especially the seed eaters, "chew" their food in their gizzard, a highly muscular part of the stomach. To assist in the grinding, they sometimes swallow hard materials such as tiny stones, sand, ashes, fragments of charcoal, or broken oyster shells. You can purchase grit at most feed and pet stores.
Eggshells are another source of grit, plus they provide calcium, an important mineral for birds in the spring when they are producing their own eggs. If you provide eggshells, be sure to bake them for 20 minutes at 250 degrees F to kill Salmonella bacteria. Let the eggshells cool, and then crush them into pieces smaller than a dime. Offer the eggshells on the ground, in a dish, or on a low platform feeder, separate from your seed feeders.
To learn more about birds and calcium, read the following Birdscope articles:
Birds and Calcium , by Tracey L. Kast, Paul E. Allen, and Andre A. Dhondt (1998). Results of the Lab's Birds and Calcium Project show that calcium use varies among species.
Feeding Calcium to Birds, by Andre A. Dhondt (1999). The Lab's Birds and Calcium Project determines we should offer calcium on the ground and on platform feeders.
3. Keep feed and feeding areas clean.
To help reduce the possibility of disease transmission in birds, clean feeders and feeding areas at least once a month. Plastic and metal feeders can go in the dishwasher, or rinse these and other styles with a 10% solution of bleach and warm water. Scrub birdbaths with a brush and replace water every three to five days to discourage mosquito reproduction. Rake up and dispose of seed hulls under feeders. Moving feeders periodically helps prevent the buildup of waste on the ground. Keep seed and foods dry; discard food that smells musty, is wet or looks moldy. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned every three to five days, or every other day in warm weather. It’s good hygiene to wash your hands after filling or cleaning feeders.
Here is some additional information prepared by the National Audubon Science – Audubon At Home staff (http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home).
Feeder/Birdbath Maintenance
Cleaning birdfeeders and birdbaths is a crucial practice in preventing the spread of disease between birds. Recently, scientists noted that the spread of Trichomonad protozoan parasites, which cause a disease termed Trichomoniasis, was on the rise especially among mourning dove and band-tailed pigeon populations in the West.
You may have a disease problem at your feeders if you notice that some birds are less alert or active, they feed less or cower on a feeder. They may also be reluctant to fly, and their feathers may appear disheveled. Birds afflicted with Trichomoniasis typically develop sores in their mouths and throats. Unable to swallow, they drop food or water contaminated with Trichomonads (which can live for up to five days in food and several hours in water) that other birds then consume, thus spreading the disease.
With the concern over this and other diseases, including Salmonellosis, Aspergillosis, and Avian Pox, which are easily transmitted at birdfeeders and birdbaths, the National Audubon Society recommends paying diligent attention to cleanliness in pursuit of responsible and rewarding bird feeding practices.
Disinfect your feeder and birdbath: To keep pathogens at bay, immerse your seed feeder or birdbath in a nine to one water-bleach (non-chlorine) solution, rinsing it thoroughly, one to two times per month . In the presence of outbreaks, disinfect twice as often.
Empty water from your birdbath every day: Brush or wipe it clean and rinse, then refill the birdbath with fresh water.
Discard old seed and hulls: When you clean your feeder, get rid of the old seed. Rake or sweep up any uneaten hulls on the ground. In winter, scraping off a few inches of snow will suffice. For busier stations, seed trays may be used to catch jettisoned hulls and seed.
Avoid overcrowding: If possible, provide more than one feeder and spread them out. Crowding only expedites the spread of disease, so give the birds variety and plenty of room.
Clean hummingbird feeders: In addition to the information provided above in the 6 Steps, another alternative is to wash hummingbird feeders with a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water about once a week. If your feeder has become dirty, try adding some grains of dry rice to the vinegar solution and shake vigorously. The grains act as a good abrasive. Rinse your feeder well with warm water three times before refilling with sugar solution.
4. Birds and chemicals don't mix.
Many pesticides, herbicides and fungicides are toxic to birds; avoid using these near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Always follow directions provided by chemical manufacturers. For additional information, visit your wild bird food retailer.
Here is additional information on protecting birds from pesticides, provided by the staff at the American Bird Conservancy (www.abcbirds.org).
Turn Your Backyard into a Sanctuary for Birds
Many chemicals can be toxic to wildlife. Pesticides, in particular, can be harmful to wild birds. In addition to killing birds, pesticides can also reduce breeding success, impair a bird's ability to migrate, and lead to physical deformities in chicks. However many insecticides, herbicides and fungicides are marketed for home and garden use. Below are some guidelines to help to limit the harmful impact of chemicals on birds and other wildlife.
Select native plants to grow in your garden. Native plants are well suited to the local climate and are more resistant to disease and pests, therefore requiring less maintenance and the use of fewer pesticides. In addition, nativeplants provide valuable food, cover and breeding habitat that will attract birds and other wildlife to your yard.
Be tolerant. Accept some damage from insects as a normal part of your garden. Insects are part of the natural ecosystem and provide important food for birds, frogs, dragonflies, bats, etc. Insects also serve as pollinators for flowers, fruits and vegetables.
Target specific pests. Before applying any chemicals make sure that you correctly identify the problem. For example, spraying an insecticide on a plant that is being damaged by a fungus will not correct the problem and can kill beneficial insects. Online resources or a local garden retailer can help you correctly identify the pest or problem and select the best treatment. If you must use a chemical select one that targets the specific pest. Broad spectrum pesticides will impact many species, not just the problem pest.
Choose the least toxic treatment. In many cases, the problem can be treated without the use of chemicals by adjusting your care and maintenance procedures (frequency of watering, timing of fertilizer applications, etc.), or by moving a plant to a different location (one with more sun or shade or with more or less moisture). Or you may be able to effectively reduce the problem by pruning affected areas or using a strong spray of water to dislodge pests from a plant. If you must use chemicals, select those that are only effective for a limited timeframe to reduce the amount of chemical in the environment.
Target your pesticide use. Only apply the chemical where it is needed. Spot treat the areas where the problem exists. If spraying a flowering plant with an insecticide, spray only the leaves and avoid the flowers which attract beneficial pollinators such as bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.
Do not use rat poisons. Rodent and vole populations can be safely eliminated by using snap traps or live-catch traps baited with apple or peanut butter. Rodents or voles that eat rat poison become sick, but do not die immediately. Predators and scavengers often eat the sick rodents resulting in secondary poisonings. Thousands of animals including hawks, owls, foxes, snakes and even dogs and cats die each year as a result of secondary poisoning from rat poisons.
Eliminate mosquito breeding areas in and around your yard. Spraying for mosquitoes does little to reduce mosquito populations and can have harmful effects on birds and people. To prevent mosquito reproduction, eliminate sources of standing water, unclog gutters, aerate ponds and change bird bath water every three days. If you have areas of standing water than can not be eliminated apply a less toxic larvicide, such as Bacillus thuringensus, to kill mosquitoes before they hatch.
Before applying fertilizers and other chemicals to your lawn have your soil tested. Contact your state's cooperative agricultural extension office. They generally do soil testing quickly and inexpensively and can tell you exactly what your lawn needs. If they determine that your lawn needs fertilizer, use a slow-release fertilizer, preferably in the autumn, since this will maintain a more natural soil chemistry and can help prevent pest outbreaks.
Minimize or move to eliminate your use of lawn chemicals. Applying several inches of mulch around plants is a safe and effective method for reducing weeds. Lawn and garden chemicals can enter nearby streams and waterways, killing aquatic vegetation and impacting stream ecology.
Always follow the directions carefully. When applying a lawn or garden chemical, always read the label carefully and apply the minimum amount required. Avoid using chemicals near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Remove or cover bird baths, bird feeders, bird houses and butterfly houses before applying chemicals. Excess application of chemicals may result in runoff into local waterways.
Dispose of the chemical containers safely. Follow the directions on the product label for proper disposal of all chemical containers and for proper cleaning of equipment. Never dump excess chemicals into storm drains.
5. Keep cats away from birds.
Scientists estimate that cats probably kill hundreds of millions of birds each year in the U.S. This is a big problem, but it’s easy to fix. Many people who enjoy feeding birds also love cats. The best solution is to keep cats indoors. They will lead longer, healthier lives, and your yard will be safer for birds. Install feeders in areas not readily accessible to cats or install fences or other barriers to help keep stray cats from feeder areas. Collar bells, de-clawing and keeping cats well fed will not solve the problem.
Here is additional information on the benefits of keeping cats indoors from the American Bird Conservancy, whose ground-breaking program Cats Indoors! is helping people make the world a better place for cats and birds (www.abcbirds.org).
Keeping Cats Indoors:
Good for Kitty,
Good for Birds,
Good for Neighbors
The majority of the nation’s 77 million pet cats are free to roam throughout their neighborhoods. However, as the U.S. becomes more urban- and suburban-ized, cat owners are becoming increasingly concerned about their pet’s safety, and with good reason. Outdoor cats are at risk of serious injury and disease, getting hit by cars, or getting lost, stolen, or poisoned. They also kill birds and other wildlife already struggling to survive in the habitat that remains. Most cat owners who let their cats outside do so because they believe that’s what they need to be happy. However, indoor cats can be happy too, and outdoor cats can become contented indoor pets.
SO YOU WANT TO BRING YOUR CAT INDOORS....
Making the transition from out to in: Keeping kittens indoors from the start is a very easy way to have a happy indoor cat. But, with practice and patience, even outdoor cats can be successfully kept indoors. Some people make the transition from outdoors to indoors gradually, bringing their cats inside for increasingly longer stays. Other people bring the cat in and shut the door for good. Either way, the key is to provide lots of attention and stimulation while the cat is indoors.
Geographic location may affect the schedule of change; a good time of year should be chosen to bring a cat indoors. In many parts of the country, the easiest time of year to make this conversion is during the cold winter months when the cat is more likely to want to be inside anyway. By the end of winter, the cat may be completely content to remain inside.
Outside excursions should be replaced with periods of special play time indoors. Supervised trips out on the patio can also make the transition from outside to inside a little easier. Cats need human companionship to be happy, and when they spend all their time out of doors, they get very little attention. An outdoor cat may welcome the indoors if he or she gets more love, attention, and play.
To keep a cat occupied indoors, provide secure cat condos which offer interesting places to lounge, play and scratch. Scratching posts, corrugated cardboard or sisal rope should also be provided for a cat to scratch. The cat should be praised for using them.
To encourage an ex-outdoor cat to exercise, interesting toys, especially those that are interactive, should be available. These usually consist of a long pole and attached line with fabric or feathers at the end of the line. Some cats enjoy searching for toys. If the cat likes to explore the house looking for “prey,” hide toys in various places so the cat can find them throughout the day. Be sure that the toys are not so small that they can be swallowed or get stuck in a cat’s throat. Cats also enjoy ping pong balls, paper bags and cardboard boxes.
Provide an indoor cat with fresh greens. Kits can be bought that include containers and seeds to grow, or plant pesticide-free alfalfa, grass, bird seed, or catnip in a container. This way, the cat can graze safely and not destroy house plants. Many cats will eat cooked string beans or peas cooled to a safe temperature, which is another way to give them greens.
Outdoor enclosures--the best of both worlds: Many cat owners who want their cat to enjoy the outdoors safely will provide an enclosure or run that the cat can access through a window or pet door. Such a facility gives the cat some of the advantages of being outside while minimizing the dangers. Outdoor enclosures can be made interesting and appealing by adding objects for the cat to explore, such as tree limbs, multilevel cat condos, tires, toys hanging from branches, and boxes in which the cat can curl up or hide. Search the internet for sources of enclosures.
Leash training: If the neighborhood is not overrun by free-roaming dogs, cat owners may want to train their cat to go outside on a harness and leash. It’s not exactly like walking a dog, but cats can learn to enjoy a leisurely stroll outside. A cat can get used to a harness by wearing it for short periods of time inside the house. Some people enjoy gardening or other time spent outdoors while their cats are nearby on a harness and lead. But, cats should never be left outside unsupervised while on a leash or lead.
Some cats may develop behavioral problems when they are no longer allowed outside. Most of these problems can be attributed to a change in routine that is too abrupt or a lack of attention and stimulation inside. Cat owners need to be patient and continue to praise the cat when playing with toys, using the scratching post and litter pan. If the cat becomes destructive or stops using the litter pan, a veterinarian or animal behaviorist should be consulted to find ways to solve the problem. These symptoms can also be attributed to boredom and loneliness.
When adopting a new cat, keep them inside from the beginning; otherwise, the cat may get lost. Using a long-range water pistol or a shake can when the cat asks to be let out is a very successful and harmless way to curb a cat from wanting to go outside.
Additional tips for a happy indoor cat: A cat’s claws should be trimmed every one to two weeks to keep the cat from damaging furniture, rugs and drapes, or artificial nail caps can be glued on every six to eight weeks. One litter pan per cat should be provided and the litter pan should be scooped daily. With non-clumping litter, change once or twice weekly; with clumping litter, change every two to four weeks. Many cats enjoy the companionship of another cat or compatible dog of the opposite sex. If you can make the financial and emotional commitment, you may want to consider adopting another companion animal for yourself and your cat.
WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT YOUR NEIGHBOR’S CAT ATTACKING BIRDS AND WILDLIFE IN YOUR YARD?
What if you have to deal with your neighbor’s cats getting into your yard, digging up and fouling your garden, spraying your bushes and deck, and killing birds at your feeders? Unfortunately, there aren’t any easy answers. But here are some suggestions that may help.
Ask your neighbor: The best solution is to ask your neighbor to keep their cat indoors or under their control when outside. Explain to them all the risks their cats face when they roam outdoors. American Bird Conservancy’s brochure, “Keeping Cats Indoors Isn’t Just For The Birds,” at gives more information on the benefits of keeping cats indoors. Share a copy with your neighbor.
Cat-proof fencing: If your cat-owning neighbor has a fenced in yard but refuses to keep their cat indoors or otherwise under control, perhaps you can convince them to install cat-proof fencing. This won’t prevent the cats from killing birds and other wildlife in their yard, but at least it will keep the cats from killing wildlife in your yard. Search the internet for sources of fencing.
Humanely trapping the cat: When all else fails, some people feel they have no choice but to trap their neighbor’s cat and take it to a shelter. You should check with local laws first, because in some areas, it is illegal to trap a neighbor’s cat, even if it is on your property. Also warn your neighbor that you plan to trap their cat if they refuse to control it. Many animal control agencies or shelters have humane live traps to lend to homeowners who need to trap a nuisance animal. Use bait such as sardines or tuna spread on newspaper or a paper plate, and put it in the back of the trap such that the cat must enter the trap to get the bait. Regularly check the trap, preferably every hour. A word of caution: well-fed cats can be hard to trap. You may also end up with non-target animals such as raccoons, opossums, or skunks, so avoid trapping at night. Also, minimize trauma to the cat by gently handling the trap, and put a cloth over it during transportation. Take the cat to your local shelter and tell them it’s your neighbor’s cat so that they can contact your neighbor. Never abandon the cat or harm it in any way. Be extremely careful not to get bitten or scratched, especially if you are trapping stray or feral cats, because they may carry rabies and other diseases
Working for laws to prohibit free-roaming cats: While this can be a multi-year effort, working for local cat ordinances to decrease a cat over-population problem or to prohibit free-roaming cats can be very effective, especially if the necessary funding for enforcement goes along with it. For more information, see the fact sheet, Get The Facts About Cat Law at: . For an example of a cat ordinance, see .
Sonic cat collar: The collar emits a high-pitched signal every 7 seconds to alert birds and other wildlife that a cat is near. A small field trial showed a 66% reduction in the number of birds killed, but it did not show a reduction in the number of small mammals killed. It is unknown whether a sonic cat collar would be effective in reducing cat predation on nestlings, fledglings, reptiles or amphibians, and it would not protect the cat from the hazards of roaming outdoors. Search the internet for sources of sonic cat collars
Fencing around bird feeders: Some people have found that putting poultry or rabbit wire fencing around bird feeders and bird baths is a very effective way to prevent cats from killing birds at these locations. The fence need only be 2 feet high and 4 feet in diameter. If a cat tries to jump over it, it gives birds a chance to fly away.
Hazelnut shells: Some people have had success in keeping cats away from feeders by placing hazelnuts under them. Cats avoid walking on hazelnut shells because the shells are sharp. The shells last over 5 years, prevent weeds, and are an attractive color.
More tips on feeding birds: Keep feeders well away from bushes and underbrush where cats can hide, and regularly clean feeders to prevent fungus and mold from growing in the seed. If free-roaming cats remain a problem at your feeders, please discontinue feeding the birds. You are doing more harm by attracting birds into a yard where there are cats.
Spraying with a garden hose: Some people try to discourage cats from getting into their yard by spraying them with a garden hose. This will only be an effective deterrent if the cat gets sprayed with water every time it comes into your yard.
What we know doesn’t work: Putting bells on a cat’s collar does not prevent predation on birds and other wildlife. A cat can learn to silently stalk its prey. Even if the bell does ring, a bird would not necessarily associate the sound with danger, and a bell would do nothing to protect young animals. Feeding a cat also does not prevent predation. Scientific studies have proven that well-fed cats still kill wildlife because the urge to hunt and the urge to eat are controlled by different portions of a cat’s brain. De-clawing a cat does not prevent predation. A free-roaming de-clawed cat in a scientific study in Wichita, KS killed more birds than any other cat in the study.
Perhaps you would like to start a Cats Indoors! Campaign in your community to raise awareness about the problem of free-roaming cats. For more information on cat predation on wildlife and hazards to free-roaming cats, as well as posters, print and radio Public Service Announcements (PSAs) and more, see
Adapted from, “How to Make Your Outdoor Cat a Happy Indoor Cat” and “What to do About Your Neighbor’s Cat in Your Yard” by American Bird Conservancy.
6. Reduce window collisions.
Collisions with glass windows kill millions of wild birds every year. Depending on their size and location, some windows reflect the sky or vegetation, and birds are fooled into thinking they can fly through them. To eliminate this problem, identify windows that cause collisions (typically larger, reflective windows, those near the ground, or those that “look through” the house). Attaching decorative decals or other decorations to the outside surface of the glass can reduce reflections. Feeder birds fleeing predators are vulnerable to window collisions. If this is happening at your house, consider moving feeders within three feet of the windows so that birds cannot accelerate to injury level speeds while flying away. Problem windows can be covered with a screen so that birds bounce off, rather than hit the glass.
Here is additional information provided by the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology (www.cornell.birds.edu).
Windows Can Be Deadly For Birds.
Ornithologists estimate that up to 100 million birds are killed each year by collisions with windows. These collisions usually involve small songbirds, such as finches, that may fall unnoticed to the ground. Sometimes the birds are merely stunned and recover in a few moments. Often, though, window hits lead to severe internal injuries and death.
Why Birds Collide With Windows.
It's thought that birds hit windows because they see the landscape—trees, sky, clouds—reflected on the glass surface but do not realize that a hard, transparent surface lies between them and that apparent open space. Panicking birds, fleeing for cover to escape predators, are even more likely to fly into windows.
A related problem—more annoying than lethal—occurs when birds attack windows. It usually occurs in spring, and is due to birds' urge to defend breeding territories. The male cardinal pecking at your window is fighting what he perceives as an intruding male—he doesn't understand that it's his own reflection. This territorial reaction may be so strong that the bird may exhaust himself, but it usually doesn't result in fatal injury.
How to Help a Window Collision Victim
If you find a bird dazed from a window hit, place it in a dark container with a lid such as a shoebox, and leave it somewhere warm and quiet, out of reach of pets and other predators. If the weather is extremely cold, you may need to take it inside. Do not try to give it food and water, and resist handling it as much as possible. The darkness will calm the bird while it revives, which should occur within a few minutes, unless it is seriously injured. Release it outside as soon as it appears awake and alert. If the bird doesn't recover in a couple of hours, you should take it to a veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator. Remember that, technically, it is illegal to handle a migratory bird without a permit.
Safeguarding Your Windows for Birds
Window strikes are something you should be aware of and try to prevent, especially if you feed wild birds in your backyard. Start by identifying which window is the problem—large picture windows are usually the worst culprits. Go outside near your feeders and look at your windows from a bird's point of view. If you see branches or sky reflected in the glass when you look at your window, the birds can as well. Can you see through the window into the house? If so, the birds can too. Is there another window on the opposite wall of the house? It may give birds the illusion of a fly-through passage to the habitat outside.
Try some of these ideas to make your windows safer:
• Relocate feeders and other attractants.
You can start by simply moving your feeders and birdbaths to new locations. Bird strikes usually occur at particular windows, so moving feeders farther away from them may solve the problem entirely. You can also try placing your feeders much closer to the glass—if a feeder is just a foot or two from a window, birds may still fly into it, but not with enough force to injure themselves.
• Avoid apparent visual tunnels.
Bright windows on the opposite wall from your picture window may give the illusion of a visual tunnel through which birds may try to fly. Try making one window less transparent by keeping a shade drawn or a door closed, or by altering the lighting inside the house. You can also make the glass less transparent by taping paper or cardboard on the inside of the panes—unsightly, but a good temporary measure until you can find a better solution.
• Break up external reflections with stickers or plastic wrap.
Break up window reflections by sticking objects to the outside of the glass. Black plastic silhouettes of a falcon, hawk, or owl sometimes work, not because they look like predators but because they disrupt the window's reflectivity. Semi-transparent stickers can also do the job—some have decorative bird shapes, or look like spider webs. Sheets of plastic food wrap may work too.
• Disrupt reflections with spray-on materials or soap.
Try spraying fake Christmas snow on the outside of the window, or drawing streaks across it with bar soap. Again, the goal is to break up external reflections.
• Attach branches in front of windows.
For a more natural look, attach dead tree branches in front of your window. They may cause the birds to slow down and avoid the window as they fly toward it. You can arrange the branches so they don't obscure your view.
• Attach hanging objects to deter birds.
Hang lightweight, shiny items in front of the window so they move in the breeze and dissuade birds from approaching. Try strips of shiny, reflective plastic (hung a few inches apart), old aluminum pie plates, or unwanted compact discs.
• Reduce reflections with trees or awnings.
Reduce the amount of light reaching a problem window by planting shade trees close to it. This will help prevent reflections. However, it will also obstruct your view. Trees take time to grow, so consider shading your window with an awning instead. Either one may help birds by reducing the amount of sky reflected in windows.
• Cover windows with netting.
Place netting over the window. It provides a physical barrier to birds flying into the glass, yet won't obstruct your view. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology installed crop netting—the kind used to keep birds away from fruit trees—in front of a large picture window next to the bird-feeding garden. The result? No more dead and injured birds. Small-mesh netting is best—5/8" (1.6 cm) in diameter—so if birds do fly into it they won't get their heads or bodies entangled but will bounce off unharmed. You can mount the netting on a frame, such as a storm-window frame, for easy installation and removal. You could also try insect screening material.
• Install windows tilting downwards.
If you're installing new windows, ask your contractor to position them slightly off vertical, facing downwards. Then the outer window surface will reflect the ground rather than the sky and trees, but won't affect your view from inside the house. Be aware, though, that this may void your warranty. Your contractor or architect may have other useful ideas about how to minimize habitat reflection in your windows.
www.backyardbirdcare.org
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