Landscape Vision Design Software: Garden Tips: 2006-04-23

1. Put out the welcome mat!
Habitat loss is the biggest challenge facing birds. You can help by making your neighborhood more attractive to birds by landscaping with native plants that provide natural food sources, shelter from the elements and predators, and nesting sites. Providing feeders, nest boxes and water also benefits birds. To learn how, stop by your local wild bird food retailer.

Here is some additional information prepared by the National Audubon Science – Audubon At Home staff (http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home).

Bird Habitat Necessities

FOOD
Natural sources: Nothing beats natural, native vegetation to feed the birds of your area. Plant a variety of native plants that supply food in the form of seeds or fruits year-round. Native plants also provide homes for insects, which in turn become meals for birds. Even the way you maintain your garden can supply additional food sources. For instance, leaves raked into your garden bed and under shrubs can provide foraging areas for ground-feeding birds such as sparrows and juncos.

Supplemental sources: Millions of people enjoy feeding birds, and feeders can help birds in especially harsh winters. A feeding station with a variety of bird feeders suited to the eating habits of different species will attract the greatest number of species. For instance, some birds feed on the ground, others perch; some prefer sunflower seeds, others like Nyjer, suet, or nectar.

WATER
All birds need water for drinking and for bathing. By providing a clean, fresh source, you will attract more species than will visit bird feeders.

Natural sources: If you have a natural water source on your property, such as a stream or wetland, enhance its attractiveness and wildlife value by protecting and restoring native plant species and allowing the vegetation along the banks to grow high to create a buffer zone.

Supplemental sources: Bird baths are a simple, popular way to provide water, with endless designs available at garden centers and wild bird supply stores. The sides should incline gently to a depth of no more than two to three inches. The surface should be rough for better footing. To protect vulnerable bathing birds from lurking predators, locate the bath some distance from cover, about 15 feet is a good distance. Change the water every few days and keep the bath scrubbed clean. Birds are attracted to the sound of running water and a drip or misting feature will increase the number of visitors. Water heaters will keep the water free of ice during winter months in colder climates.

Ponds and Water Gardens: The creation of these water elements will take some work but, done well, they can attract many species. Ponds for birds should be shallow, with gently sloping shorelines.

NESTING
Birds will remain in your habitat during the breeding season if they have places to nest and raise young. Different species have different requirements; some nest in cavities, many others in open nests found on ledges or in a tree crotch, and others nest on the ground. Get to know which species are likely to nest in your area and provide the appropriate habitat or structure.

Natural sources: Native trees and shrubs provide good nesting areas for many species, from those that nest in holes to those that create cup-shaped nests in the crotches of branches to those that build nests at the tops of the canopy. Include a mix of evergreen and deciduous plants, a hedgerow, and vines. For grassland consider a meadow. Where safety permits, allow snags — dead trees — to remain standing. Woodpeckers and others excavate the rotting wood looking for insects. Cavity-nesting birds use the resulting holes.

Supplemental sources: Nest boxes make a wonderful addition to a yard, allowing you to easily watch a family raise its young. Wrens, swallows, bluebirds, Purple Martins, chickadees, and titmice are some of the species that readily use nest boxes. Identify the species of bird you’d like to attract to determine the correct size of the entrance hole needed. You may want to consider erecting a shelf-style structure for species such as robins and phoebes. Nest boxes should be mounted on a pole, fence post, or tree. Height of the nest depends on the species. For most backyard cavity nesters, a general height of at least five feet is recommended. Ventilation and drainage holes are necessary, as is access to the interior to allow periodic cleaning. Baffles and metal guards to deter predators are encouraged. You can assist birds in building their nests by supplying some of the materials they seek, such as twigs; short lengths of string, yarn, and thread; cotton; hair brushed from a pet; and sphagnum moss. Leave the offerings in a tray or in an onion net bag hung from a tree.

SHELTER
Birds need places where they can hide from predators and inclement weather. Trees, shrubs, meadows, and even rock walls provide such shelter.

Natural sources: Native trees and shrubs of different densities and heights give birds places of retreat and safety. In winter, native evergreens, hedgerows, and dense thickets offer critical cover. Place feeding stations close enough to vegetation so that birds can make a quick escape but far enough to allow for a wide visual field for watching possible threats.

Supplemental sources: If your yard is lacking appropriate shelter for wildlife, create a brush pile from fallen branches and leaves. Toss your discarded Christmas tree a few feet away from the feeder, far enough so that a lurking cat can’t pounce from behind it onto a ground-feeding bird but close enough for the birds to find speedy cover. The nooks and crannies of a stone wall, rock pile or stack of firewood can also provide hiding places and additional forage. You can also erect boxes designed specifically for roosting, with the entrance hole near the bottom so that heat doesn’t escape.

2. Prepare a proper menu.
Providing the appropriate foods year round will attract more birds to your yard and help ensure that they have a safe and nutritious diet. Refill feeders regularly with food desired by birds in your area. To pick the best menu, stop by your wild bird food retailer.

Here is additional information on menus for wild birds and other bird feeding tips from the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology (www.birds.cornell.edu).

Feeding Wild Birds

If you have a bird feeder in your backyard, you're in good company. Bird watching is one of America's fastest-growing hobbies, and surveys show that nearly half the households in the United States provide food for wild birds.

The appeal is obvious—by feeding birds we bring them close so we can see them more easily. Their colorful, lively company brightens up our lives, especially through the dreary days of winter.

Setting up a backyard bird feeder can make birds' lives easier, too. In much of North America, winter is a difficult time for birds. Finding food can be especially challenging during periods of extreme cold.

What should you serve your bird visitors for dinner? And how should you serve it? The shelves of supermarkets, home and garden stores, and specialty bird-feeding stores are stocked with bags, buckets, and cakes of many food types, as well as numerous different feeders. You may find the task of selecting the best foods and feeders a bit daunting.

We'll describe the basic feeder types, their pluses and minuses, and the types of birds they attract. We'll help you choose foods that the birds you want to attract enjoy the most. You'll find out where in your yard to position your feeder, and how to look after it, for the health and safety of your birds. Finally we offer suggestions about dealing with unwanted feeder visitors.

Types of Bird Feeders:
The easiest way to attract birds to your yard is to put up a bird feeder. There are many different ones on the market today. Most are made for seeds, but there are also specialty feeders for certain foods, such as sugar solution for hummingbirds, suet, or peanuts. Which should you choose? The answer depends on the kinds of birds you want to attract.

We'll show you the major feeder types and describe their benefits and shortcomings. Keep in mind that each style of feeder comes in a variety of models and sizes. Quality varies too—the ideal bird feeder is sturdy enough to withstand winter weather, tight enough to keep seeds dry, large enough to avoid constant refilling, and easy to assemble and clean. Plastic or metal feeders usually beat wooden ones in meeting all these requirements.

If you want to attract the greatest variety of birds to your yard, you'll want to use several different feeder types offering a variety of foods. Alternatively, you may want to attract certain bird species, but dissuade others. The following information will help you make the correct feeder choice.

Tray or Platform Feeder:
Any flat, raised surface onto which bird food is spread.

Trays attract most species of feeder birds, but they offer no protection against squirrels, chipmunks, rain, or snow. Plus the seed can quickly become soiled by droppings because birds stand right on top of it. Tray feeders placed near the ground are most likely to attract ground-feeding birds such as juncos, doves, jays, blackbirds, and sparrows. Tray feeders work well mounted on deck railings, posts, or stumps, and also can be suspended. Some models have a roof to provide some protection from the weather. Be sure your tray feeders have plenty of drainage holes.

Hopper or House Feeder:
Platform with walls and a roof, forming an enclosed "hopper."

This type protects seeds fairly well against the weather, but less well against squirrels. It also keeps seed cleaner. Hopper feeders are attractive to most feeder birds, including finches, jays, cardinals, buntings, grosbeaks, sparrows, chickadees, and titmice. Most hoppers hold a good quantity of seed. Few are weatherproof, however, so the food may get wet and moldy if it sits for a few days. Hopper feeders can be mounted on a pole or suspended.

Window Feeder:
Usually made of clear plastic and suction-cupped to a window.

This type of feeder attracts finches, sparrows, chickadees, and titmice, allowing close-up views of the birds as they come to feed. Be aware, though, that the birds feed while standing on a pile of seeds inside the feeder, so the food risks becoming soiled.

Tube Feeder:
Hollow cylinder, usually of clear plastic, with multiple feeding ports and perches.

Tube feeders keep seed fairly clean and dry, and if they have metal feeding ports they are somewhat squirrel resistant. The birds attracted depend on the size of the perches under the feeding ports: short perches accommodate small birds such as sparrows, grosbeaks, chickadees, titmice, and finches (such as the familiar House Finch), but exclude larger birds such as grackles and jays. Styles with perches above the feeding ports are designed for seed-eating birds that like to feed hanging upside down such as goldfinches, while dissuading others.

Nyjer Feeder:
Special tube feeder designed with extra-small openings to dispense tiny nyjer seeds.

Nyjer is also known as thistle or niger. These feeders attract a variety of small songbirds, especially finches and redpolls. Nyjer "socks"—fine-mesh bags to which birds cling to extract the seeds—are also available.

Suet Feeder:
Wire-mesh cage or plastic-mesh bag, such as an onion bag, which holds suet or suet mixture.

This type of feeder can be nailed or tied to a tree trunk. It can also be suspended. Suet can also be smeared into knotholes.

Suet feeders attract a variety of woodpeckers and nuthatches, as well as chickadees, titmice, jays, and starlings. Suet cages that are open only at the bottom are starling-proof; they force birds to hang upside down while feeding, something starlings find difficult.

Hummingbird Feeder:
A container to hold artificial nectar or sugar solution; may be bottle or saucer style.

The bottle or tube type of hummingbird feeder is usually made of glass or plastic, often with red plastic flowers and bee-guards (little plastic screens that keep insects away from the sugar solution) on the feeding ports. Saucer types are usually plastic.

Make sure the feeder is easy to take apart and clean, because it should be washed frequently. For example, the fill hole should be large enough for you to reach in while cleaning.

You can make your own hummingbird feeder with a bottle, rubber cork, and the drinking tube from a pet hamster water bottle. The color red attracts hummingbirds, so paint the feeding port with red nail polish or tie red ribbons to the feeder.

Saucer-shaped hummingbird feeders have feeding ports in the top, making them bee-and wasp-proof.

Saucer feeders are better than bottle feeders in direct sunlight. Bottle feeders tend to leak in the sun—air trapped in the top of the bottle expands as it warms and pushes the nectar out. In fact, you should avoid locating your hummingbird feeder in direct sun—it causes the sugar solution to spoil rapidly.

Choosing Bird Food

With such a variety of bird foods on the market it's often hard to choose which is best. Here we'll help you select the right type of food for the birds you want to attract.

In most areas, black-oil sunflower seed attracts the greatest variety of birds. It has a high meat-to-shell ratio and a high fat content. It's small and thin-shelled, making it easy for small birds, such as the Tufted Titmouse at right, to handle and crack. Striped sunflower seeds are larger with thicker seed coats.

Although sunflower seeds are the all-round favorite, particularly for tree-dwelling birds, some birds prefer different foods. Blackbirds relish corn, for instance, whereas doves, like many ground-feeding birds, prefer white millet or red milo. Certain species may even have different food preferences in different parts of their range.

Store your bird food carefully. If you buy a lot of seed, keep it in a dry, cool place, in a rodent-proof, metal can. Check the seed often for mold. Throw out any seed that is questionable.

Food Preferences of Common Feeder Birds

Results based in part on the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's Seed Preference Test, a National Science Experiment sponsored by the National Science Foundation, launched in winter 1993-1994.

Additional information on menus for wild birds and other bird feeding tips from the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology are found at: htpt://www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/AboutBirdsandFeeding/BirdFoods.htm.

To learn more about the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's 1993-1994 Seed Preference Test, read the following Birdscope articles:

Birds Like Millet and Milo, Too! by Kenneth V. Rosenberg and Rick Bonney (1994).
The National Science Experiments: Seed Preference Test yields exciting results.

Seed Preferences: East Versus West. By Kenneth V. Rosenberg and Andre A. Dhondt (1995). Why do birds in different places like different foods?

Choosing Bird Food: Seed Types

Corn:
Dried whole kernel corn is a favorite food of jays, pigeons, doves, turkeys, pheasants, and quail. Cracked corn is easier for smaller birds to eat, and will attract blackbirds, finches, and sparrows, as well as the larger birds mentioned above.

Millet:
There are two types of millet: red and white. Most birds find white proso millet more attractive than the red variety. Millet appeals to many ground-feeding birds, such as doves, juncos, and sparrows. However, it also attracts undesirable non-native species such as European Starlings and House Sparrows.

Milo:
The large, reddish, round seeds of milo (or sorghum) are often used as "filler" in birdseed mixes. Most birds will only eat it if there's nothing better. Be aware that it also may attract undesirable aggressive birds such as cowbirds, starlings, and grackles.

Safflower:
A particular favorite of cardinals, safflower is often more expensive than sunflower seed. Grosbeaks, sparrows, and doves also like it. It's sometimes suggested for dissuading undesirable species because it may have less appeal to starlings, House Sparrows, and squirrels.

Nyjer: (sometimes spelled "niger")
This is commonly known as thistle seed, although it's unrelated to native thistles. Its tiny seeds attract small finches such as goldfinches, siskins, and redpolls. Nyjer is expensive, so it's best offered in specially-designed thistle seed feeders, which have tiny feeding ports that prevent spilling and dissuade larger birds.

Sunflower:
Black-oil sunflower seed is the all-round favorite for bird feeders, particularly attractive to tree-dwelling birds. It has a high meat-to-shell ratio and is high in fat. Small size and thin shell make it easy for small birds, such as the Black-capped Chickadee, to handle and crack.

Striped sunflower seeds are larger and have thicker seed coats, making them more difficult for small birds to process.

Peanuts:
Titmice, chickadees, nuthatches, woodpeckers, cardinals, jays, many sparrows, and even Carolina Wrens are attracted to peanuts. They can be offered shelled or whole. Peanut feeders are specially-designed wire-mesh cages, often cylindrical.

Mixed Seed:
This is best sprinkled on the ground or onto platform feeders. Mixed seed typically contains high quantities of millet, preferred by ground-feeding birds. Many feeder birds will not eat millet. Likewise, ground-feeding birds that favor millet will not have access to it if it's in a feeder. Try filling hanging feeders with sunflower seeds and spreading mixed seed for ground-feeding birds.

Hummingbirds and Nectar

Flower nectar is the principle natural food of hummingbirds. If you provide hummingbird feeders, you will need to make your own artificial "nectar." Since hummingbirds also eat insects, you don't need to purchase expensive commercial hummingbird nectars that have added vitamins and minerals. A sugar solution is adequate.

Recipe:
To make sugar solution for hummingbirds, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water (boil the water before measuring, because some water will evaporate away in the process). When the mixture is cool it is ready for use. You can store extra sugar water in your refrigerator for up to one week, but left longer it may become moldy.

Don't add red food coloring to the sugar solution—it is unnecessary and possibly harmful to the birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a red ribbon on top, will attract the hummingbirds just as well.

Important Tips

Change sugar solution every three to five days to prevent mold and deadly fermentation.
Clean the hummingbird feeder often.
NEVER use honey or artificial sweeteners in hummingbird feeders. Honey grows mold that can be dangerous—even fatal—to hummingbirds, and sweeteners will not provide the energy and nutrition that birds require.
Do not put any kind of oil around feeding portals to deter insects. Oil might contaminate the nectar, or get on the birds' plumage ruining its insulative properties. If bees, wasps, or ants become a problem, try moving the feeder
Choosing Bird Food: Other Foods

Suet is particularly attractive to woodpeckers, such as the Red-bellied Woodpecker, but many insect-eating birds—nuthatches, chickadees, wrens, creepers, kinglets, and even cardinals—are fond of it, too. It's a high-energy food, much appreciated in cold weather.

Suet is the hard fat surrounding beef kidneys. It is inexpensive and available from butchers and at many supermarket meat counters. Commercial suet cakes are manufactured from "rendered" suet, a process in which it is melted, cooked, and strained, making it less prone to melting and spoilage.

Avoid offering unprocessed suet in hot weather—it quickly becomes rancid. If you want to offer suet year-round, commercial suet cakes are preferable, but check the package recommendations. Another suggestion is to put out only small amounts of suet, keeping the rest refrigerated until needed. A good warm-weather alternative to suet is a mixture of one part peanut butter to five parts cornmeal.

Offer suet in a plastic mesh bag (like the sort onions are packaged in) or a wire basket or cage (this keeps the raccoons and squirrels out), suspended from a branch or attached to a tree trunk.

Starlings are very fond of suet. To dissuade these undesirables, offer suet in a feeder that requires birds to feed hanging upside down. Woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches will access it easily, but starlings cannot.

Fruit and Fruit Seeds:
Birds such as robins, thrushes, waxwings, and bluebirds usually don't visit seed feeders because seeds are not a major part of their diet. But you can attract them with fruit. Mockingbirds, tanagers, and catbirds may be attracted too. Try raisins or currants softened by soaking in water. Offer diced fresh fruit, such as apples, melons, or grapes. Orange halves are particularly desirable, especially to orioles, which also go for grape jelly.

You can also save your Halloween pumpkin seeds, and other squash or melon seeds, for the birds. Some relish these more than black-oil sunflower seeds. Spread them out to let them dry and then run them through the food processor. This makes it easier for smaller birds to eat them.

Leftovers:
Birds also will eat stale bread and other leftovers. Just make sure they're not moldy or they may harm the birds. Be aware, too, that table scraps may attract nuisance species such as European Starlings, House Sparrows, rats, or raccoons.

Grit and Minerals:
Putting out grit will attract birds because they need it as a digestive aid. Birds, especially the seed eaters, "chew" their food in their gizzard, a highly muscular part of the stomach. To assist in the grinding, they sometimes swallow hard materials such as tiny stones, sand, ashes, fragments of charcoal, or broken oyster shells. You can purchase grit at most feed and pet stores.

Eggshells are another source of grit, plus they provide calcium, an important mineral for birds in the spring when they are producing their own eggs. If you provide eggshells, be sure to bake them for 20 minutes at 250 degrees F to kill Salmonella bacteria. Let the eggshells cool, and then crush them into pieces smaller than a dime. Offer the eggshells on the ground, in a dish, or on a low platform feeder, separate from your seed feeders.

To learn more about birds and calcium, read the following Birdscope articles:

Birds and Calcium , by Tracey L. Kast, Paul E. Allen, and Andre A. Dhondt (1998). Results of the Lab's Birds and Calcium Project show that calcium use varies among species.

Feeding Calcium to Birds, by Andre A. Dhondt (1999). The Lab's Birds and Calcium Project determines we should offer calcium on the ground and on platform feeders.

3. Keep feed and feeding areas clean.
To help reduce the possibility of disease transmission in birds, clean feeders and feeding areas at least once a month. Plastic and metal feeders can go in the dishwasher, or rinse these and other styles with a 10% solution of bleach and warm water. Scrub birdbaths with a brush and replace water every three to five days to discourage mosquito reproduction. Rake up and dispose of seed hulls under feeders. Moving feeders periodically helps prevent the buildup of waste on the ground. Keep seed and foods dry; discard food that smells musty, is wet or looks moldy. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned every three to five days, or every other day in warm weather. It’s good hygiene to wash your hands after filling or cleaning feeders.

Here is some additional information prepared by the National Audubon Science – Audubon At Home staff (http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home).

Feeder/Birdbath Maintenance

Cleaning birdfeeders and birdbaths is a crucial practice in preventing the spread of disease between birds. Recently, scientists noted that the spread of Trichomonad protozoan parasites, which cause a disease termed Trichomoniasis, was on the rise especially among mourning dove and band-tailed pigeon populations in the West.

You may have a disease problem at your feeders if you notice that some birds are less alert or active, they feed less or cower on a feeder. They may also be reluctant to fly, and their feathers may appear disheveled. Birds afflicted with Trichomoniasis typically develop sores in their mouths and throats. Unable to swallow, they drop food or water contaminated with Trichomonads (which can live for up to five days in food and several hours in water) that other birds then consume, thus spreading the disease.

With the concern over this and other diseases, including Salmonellosis, Aspergillosis, and Avian Pox, which are easily transmitted at birdfeeders and birdbaths, the National Audubon Society recommends paying diligent attention to cleanliness in pursuit of responsible and rewarding bird feeding practices.

Disinfect your feeder and birdbath: To keep pathogens at bay, immerse your seed feeder or birdbath in a nine to one water-bleach (non-chlorine) solution, rinsing it thoroughly, one to two times per month . In the presence of outbreaks, disinfect twice as often.

Empty water from your birdbath every day: Brush or wipe it clean and rinse, then refill the birdbath with fresh water.

Discard old seed and hulls: When you clean your feeder, get rid of the old seed. Rake or sweep up any uneaten hulls on the ground. In winter, scraping off a few inches of snow will suffice. For busier stations, seed trays may be used to catch jettisoned hulls and seed.

Avoid overcrowding: If possible, provide more than one feeder and spread them out. Crowding only expedites the spread of disease, so give the birds variety and plenty of room.

Clean hummingbird feeders: In addition to the information provided above in the 6 Steps, another alternative is to wash hummingbird feeders with a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water about once a week. If your feeder has become dirty, try adding some grains of dry rice to the vinegar solution and shake vigorously. The grains act as a good abrasive. Rinse your feeder well with warm water three times before refilling with sugar solution.

4. Birds and chemicals don't mix.
Many pesticides, herbicides and fungicides are toxic to birds; avoid using these near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Always follow directions provided by chemical manufacturers. For additional information, visit your wild bird food retailer.

Here is additional information on protecting birds from pesticides, provided by the staff at the American Bird Conservancy (www.abcbirds.org).

Turn Your Backyard into a Sanctuary for Birds

Many chemicals can be toxic to wildlife. Pesticides, in particular, can be harmful to wild birds. In addition to killing birds, pesticides can also reduce breeding success, impair a bird's ability to migrate, and lead to physical deformities in chicks. However many insecticides, herbicides and fungicides are marketed for home and garden use. Below are some guidelines to help to limit the harmful impact of chemicals on birds and other wildlife.

Select native plants to grow in your garden. Native plants are well suited to the local climate and are more resistant to disease and pests, therefore requiring less maintenance and the use of fewer pesticides. In addition, nativeplants provide valuable food, cover and breeding habitat that will attract birds and other wildlife to your yard.

Be tolerant. Accept some damage from insects as a normal part of your garden. Insects are part of the natural ecosystem and provide important food for birds, frogs, dragonflies, bats, etc. Insects also serve as pollinators for flowers, fruits and vegetables.

Target specific pests. Before applying any chemicals make sure that you correctly identify the problem. For example, spraying an insecticide on a plant that is being damaged by a fungus will not correct the problem and can kill beneficial insects. Online resources or a local garden retailer can help you correctly identify the pest or problem and select the best treatment. If you must use a chemical select one that targets the specific pest. Broad spectrum pesticides will impact many species, not just the problem pest.

Choose the least toxic treatment. In many cases, the problem can be treated without the use of chemicals by adjusting your care and maintenance procedures (frequency of watering, timing of fertilizer applications, etc.), or by moving a plant to a different location (one with more sun or shade or with more or less moisture). Or you may be able to effectively reduce the problem by pruning affected areas or using a strong spray of water to dislodge pests from a plant. If you must use chemicals, select those that are only effective for a limited timeframe to reduce the amount of chemical in the environment.

Target your pesticide use. Only apply the chemical where it is needed. Spot treat the areas where the problem exists. If spraying a flowering plant with an insecticide, spray only the leaves and avoid the flowers which attract beneficial pollinators such as bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Do not use rat poisons. Rodent and vole populations can be safely eliminated by using snap traps or live-catch traps baited with apple or peanut butter. Rodents or voles that eat rat poison become sick, but do not die immediately. Predators and scavengers often eat the sick rodents resulting in secondary poisonings. Thousands of animals including hawks, owls, foxes, snakes and even dogs and cats die each year as a result of secondary poisoning from rat poisons.

Eliminate mosquito breeding areas in and around your yard. Spraying for mosquitoes does little to reduce mosquito populations and can have harmful effects on birds and people. To prevent mosquito reproduction, eliminate sources of standing water, unclog gutters, aerate ponds and change bird bath water every three days. If you have areas of standing water than can not be eliminated apply a less toxic larvicide, such as Bacillus thuringensus, to kill mosquitoes before they hatch.

Before applying fertilizers and other chemicals to your lawn have your soil tested. Contact your state's cooperative agricultural extension office. They generally do soil testing quickly and inexpensively and can tell you exactly what your lawn needs. If they determine that your lawn needs fertilizer, use a slow-release fertilizer, preferably in the autumn, since this will maintain a more natural soil chemistry and can help prevent pest outbreaks.

Minimize or move to eliminate your use of lawn chemicals. Applying several inches of mulch around plants is a safe and effective method for reducing weeds. Lawn and garden chemicals can enter nearby streams and waterways, killing aquatic vegetation and impacting stream ecology.

Always follow the directions carefully. When applying a lawn or garden chemical, always read the label carefully and apply the minimum amount required. Avoid using chemicals near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Remove or cover bird baths, bird feeders, bird houses and butterfly houses before applying chemicals. Excess application of chemicals may result in runoff into local waterways.

Dispose of the chemical containers safely. Follow the directions on the product label for proper disposal of all chemical containers and for proper cleaning of equipment. Never dump excess chemicals into storm drains.

5. Keep cats away from birds.
Scientists estimate that cats probably kill hundreds of millions of birds each year in the U.S. This is a big problem, but it’s easy to fix. Many people who enjoy feeding birds also love cats. The best solution is to keep cats indoors. They will lead longer, healthier lives, and your yard will be safer for birds. Install feeders in areas not readily accessible to cats or install fences or other barriers to help keep stray cats from feeder areas. Collar bells, de-clawing and keeping cats well fed will not solve the problem.

Here is additional information on the benefits of keeping cats indoors from the American Bird Conservancy, whose ground-breaking program Cats Indoors! is helping people make the world a better place for cats and birds (www.abcbirds.org).

Keeping Cats Indoors:
Good for Kitty,
Good for Birds,
Good for Neighbors

The majority of the nation’s 77 million pet cats are free to roam throughout their neighborhoods. However, as the U.S. becomes more urban- and suburban-ized, cat owners are becoming increasingly concerned about their pet’s safety, and with good reason. Outdoor cats are at risk of serious injury and disease, getting hit by cars, or getting lost, stolen, or poisoned. They also kill birds and other wildlife already struggling to survive in the habitat that remains. Most cat owners who let their cats outside do so because they believe that’s what they need to be happy. However, indoor cats can be happy too, and outdoor cats can become contented indoor pets.

SO YOU WANT TO BRING YOUR CAT INDOORS....

Making the transition from out to in: Keeping kittens indoors from the start is a very easy way to have a happy indoor cat. But, with practice and patience, even outdoor cats can be successfully kept indoors. Some people make the transition from outdoors to indoors gradually, bringing their cats inside for increasingly longer stays. Other people bring the cat in and shut the door for good. Either way, the key is to provide lots of attention and stimulation while the cat is indoors.

Geographic location may affect the schedule of change; a good time of year should be chosen to bring a cat indoors. In many parts of the country, the easiest time of year to make this conversion is during the cold winter months when the cat is more likely to want to be inside anyway. By the end of winter, the cat may be completely content to remain inside.
Outside excursions should be replaced with periods of special play time indoors. Supervised trips out on the patio can also make the transition from outside to inside a little easier. Cats need human companionship to be happy, and when they spend all their time out of doors, they get very little attention. An outdoor cat may welcome the indoors if he or she gets more love, attention, and play.

To keep a cat occupied indoors, provide secure cat condos which offer interesting places to lounge, play and scratch. Scratching posts, corrugated cardboard or sisal rope should also be provided for a cat to scratch. The cat should be praised for using them.

To encourage an ex-outdoor cat to exercise, interesting toys, especially those that are interactive, should be available. These usually consist of a long pole and attached line with fabric or feathers at the end of the line. Some cats enjoy searching for toys. If the cat likes to explore the house looking for “prey,” hide toys in various places so the cat can find them throughout the day. Be sure that the toys are not so small that they can be swallowed or get stuck in a cat’s throat. Cats also enjoy ping pong balls, paper bags and cardboard boxes.

Provide an indoor cat with fresh greens. Kits can be bought that include containers and seeds to grow, or plant pesticide-free alfalfa, grass, bird seed, or catnip in a container. This way, the cat can graze safely and not destroy house plants. Many cats will eat cooked string beans or peas cooled to a safe temperature, which is another way to give them greens.

Outdoor enclosures--the best of both worlds: Many cat owners who want their cat to enjoy the outdoors safely will provide an enclosure or run that the cat can access through a window or pet door. Such a facility gives the cat some of the advantages of being outside while minimizing the dangers. Outdoor enclosures can be made interesting and appealing by adding objects for the cat to explore, such as tree limbs, multilevel cat condos, tires, toys hanging from branches, and boxes in which the cat can curl up or hide. Search the internet for sources of enclosures.

Leash training: If the neighborhood is not overrun by free-roaming dogs, cat owners may want to train their cat to go outside on a harness and leash. It’s not exactly like walking a dog, but cats can learn to enjoy a leisurely stroll outside. A cat can get used to a harness by wearing it for short periods of time inside the house. Some people enjoy gardening or other time spent outdoors while their cats are nearby on a harness and lead. But, cats should never be left outside unsupervised while on a leash or lead.

Some cats may develop behavioral problems when they are no longer allowed outside. Most of these problems can be attributed to a change in routine that is too abrupt or a lack of attention and stimulation inside. Cat owners need to be patient and continue to praise the cat when playing with toys, using the scratching post and litter pan. If the cat becomes destructive or stops using the litter pan, a veterinarian or animal behaviorist should be consulted to find ways to solve the problem. These symptoms can also be attributed to boredom and loneliness.

When adopting a new cat, keep them inside from the beginning; otherwise, the cat may get lost. Using a long-range water pistol or a shake can when the cat asks to be let out is a very successful and harmless way to curb a cat from wanting to go outside.

Additional tips for a happy indoor cat: A cat’s claws should be trimmed every one to two weeks to keep the cat from damaging furniture, rugs and drapes, or artificial nail caps can be glued on every six to eight weeks. One litter pan per cat should be provided and the litter pan should be scooped daily. With non-clumping litter, change once or twice weekly; with clumping litter, change every two to four weeks. Many cats enjoy the companionship of another cat or compatible dog of the opposite sex. If you can make the financial and emotional commitment, you may want to consider adopting another companion animal for yourself and your cat.

WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT YOUR NEIGHBOR’S CAT ATTACKING BIRDS AND WILDLIFE IN YOUR YARD?

What if you have to deal with your neighbor’s cats getting into your yard, digging up and fouling your garden, spraying your bushes and deck, and killing birds at your feeders? Unfortunately, there aren’t any easy answers. But here are some suggestions that may help.

Ask your neighbor: The best solution is to ask your neighbor to keep their cat indoors or under their control when outside. Explain to them all the risks their cats face when they roam outdoors. American Bird Conservancy’s brochure, “Keeping Cats Indoors Isn’t Just For The Birds,” at gives more information on the benefits of keeping cats indoors. Share a copy with your neighbor.

Cat-proof fencing: If your cat-owning neighbor has a fenced in yard but refuses to keep their cat indoors or otherwise under control, perhaps you can convince them to install cat-proof fencing. This won’t prevent the cats from killing birds and other wildlife in their yard, but at least it will keep the cats from killing wildlife in your yard. Search the internet for sources of fencing.

Humanely trapping the cat: When all else fails, some people feel they have no choice but to trap their neighbor’s cat and take it to a shelter. You should check with local laws first, because in some areas, it is illegal to trap a neighbor’s cat, even if it is on your property. Also warn your neighbor that you plan to trap their cat if they refuse to control it. Many animal control agencies or shelters have humane live traps to lend to homeowners who need to trap a nuisance animal. Use bait such as sardines or tuna spread on newspaper or a paper plate, and put it in the back of the trap such that the cat must enter the trap to get the bait. Regularly check the trap, preferably every hour. A word of caution: well-fed cats can be hard to trap. You may also end up with non-target animals such as raccoons, opossums, or skunks, so avoid trapping at night. Also, minimize trauma to the cat by gently handling the trap, and put a cloth over it during transportation. Take the cat to your local shelter and tell them it’s your neighbor’s cat so that they can contact your neighbor. Never abandon the cat or harm it in any way. Be extremely careful not to get bitten or scratched, especially if you are trapping stray or feral cats, because they may carry rabies and other diseases

Working for laws to prohibit free-roaming cats: While this can be a multi-year effort, working for local cat ordinances to decrease a cat over-population problem or to prohibit free-roaming cats can be very effective, especially if the necessary funding for enforcement goes along with it. For more information, see the fact sheet, Get The Facts About Cat Law at: . For an example of a cat ordinance, see .

Sonic cat collar: The collar emits a high-pitched signal every 7 seconds to alert birds and other wildlife that a cat is near. A small field trial showed a 66% reduction in the number of birds killed, but it did not show a reduction in the number of small mammals killed. It is unknown whether a sonic cat collar would be effective in reducing cat predation on nestlings, fledglings, reptiles or amphibians, and it would not protect the cat from the hazards of roaming outdoors. Search the internet for sources of sonic cat collars

Fencing around bird feeders: Some people have found that putting poultry or rabbit wire fencing around bird feeders and bird baths is a very effective way to prevent cats from killing birds at these locations. The fence need only be 2 feet high and 4 feet in diameter. If a cat tries to jump over it, it gives birds a chance to fly away.

Hazelnut shells: Some people have had success in keeping cats away from feeders by placing hazelnuts under them. Cats avoid walking on hazelnut shells because the shells are sharp. The shells last over 5 years, prevent weeds, and are an attractive color.

More tips on feeding birds: Keep feeders well away from bushes and underbrush where cats can hide, and regularly clean feeders to prevent fungus and mold from growing in the seed. If free-roaming cats remain a problem at your feeders, please discontinue feeding the birds. You are doing more harm by attracting birds into a yard where there are cats.

Spraying with a garden hose: Some people try to discourage cats from getting into their yard by spraying them with a garden hose. This will only be an effective deterrent if the cat gets sprayed with water every time it comes into your yard.

What we know doesn’t work: Putting bells on a cat’s collar does not prevent predation on birds and other wildlife. A cat can learn to silently stalk its prey. Even if the bell does ring, a bird would not necessarily associate the sound with danger, and a bell would do nothing to protect young animals. Feeding a cat also does not prevent predation. Scientific studies have proven that well-fed cats still kill wildlife because the urge to hunt and the urge to eat are controlled by different portions of a cat’s brain. De-clawing a cat does not prevent predation. A free-roaming de-clawed cat in a scientific study in Wichita, KS killed more birds than any other cat in the study.

Perhaps you would like to start a Cats Indoors! Campaign in your community to raise awareness about the problem of free-roaming cats. For more information on cat predation on wildlife and hazards to free-roaming cats, as well as posters, print and radio Public Service Announcements (PSAs) and more, see

Adapted from, “How to Make Your Outdoor Cat a Happy Indoor Cat” and “What to do About Your Neighbor’s Cat in Your Yard” by American Bird Conservancy.

6. Reduce window collisions.
Collisions with glass windows kill millions of wild birds every year. Depending on their size and location, some windows reflect the sky or vegetation, and birds are fooled into thinking they can fly through them. To eliminate this problem, identify windows that cause collisions (typically larger, reflective windows, those near the ground, or those that “look through” the house). Attaching decorative decals or other decorations to the outside surface of the glass can reduce reflections. Feeder birds fleeing predators are vulnerable to window collisions. If this is happening at your house, consider moving feeders within three feet of the windows so that birds cannot accelerate to injury level speeds while flying away. Problem windows can be covered with a screen so that birds bounce off, rather than hit the glass.

Here is additional information provided by the staff at the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology (www.cornell.birds.edu).

Windows Can Be Deadly For Birds.
Ornithologists estimate that up to 100 million birds are killed each year by collisions with windows. These collisions usually involve small songbirds, such as finches, that may fall unnoticed to the ground. Sometimes the birds are merely stunned and recover in a few moments. Often, though, window hits lead to severe internal injuries and death.

Why Birds Collide With Windows.
It's thought that birds hit windows because they see the landscape—trees, sky, clouds—reflected on the glass surface but do not realize that a hard, transparent surface lies between them and that apparent open space. Panicking birds, fleeing for cover to escape predators, are even more likely to fly into windows.

A related problem—more annoying than lethal—occurs when birds attack windows. It usually occurs in spring, and is due to birds' urge to defend breeding territories. The male cardinal pecking at your window is fighting what he perceives as an intruding male—he doesn't understand that it's his own reflection. This territorial reaction may be so strong that the bird may exhaust himself, but it usually doesn't result in fatal injury.

How to Help a Window Collision Victim
If you find a bird dazed from a window hit, place it in a dark container with a lid such as a shoebox, and leave it somewhere warm and quiet, out of reach of pets and other predators. If the weather is extremely cold, you may need to take it inside. Do not try to give it food and water, and resist handling it as much as possible. The darkness will calm the bird while it revives, which should occur within a few minutes, unless it is seriously injured. Release it outside as soon as it appears awake and alert. If the bird doesn't recover in a couple of hours, you should take it to a veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator. Remember that, technically, it is illegal to handle a migratory bird without a permit.

Safeguarding Your Windows for Birds
Window strikes are something you should be aware of and try to prevent, especially if you feed wild birds in your backyard. Start by identifying which window is the problem—large picture windows are usually the worst culprits. Go outside near your feeders and look at your windows from a bird's point of view. If you see branches or sky reflected in the glass when you look at your window, the birds can as well. Can you see through the window into the house? If so, the birds can too. Is there another window on the opposite wall of the house? It may give birds the illusion of a fly-through passage to the habitat outside.

Try some of these ideas to make your windows safer:

• Relocate feeders and other attractants.
You can start by simply moving your feeders and birdbaths to new locations. Bird strikes usually occur at particular windows, so moving feeders farther away from them may solve the problem entirely. You can also try placing your feeders much closer to the glass—if a feeder is just a foot or two from a window, birds may still fly into it, but not with enough force to injure themselves.

• Avoid apparent visual tunnels.
Bright windows on the opposite wall from your picture window may give the illusion of a visual tunnel through which birds may try to fly. Try making one window less transparent by keeping a shade drawn or a door closed, or by altering the lighting inside the house. You can also make the glass less transparent by taping paper or cardboard on the inside of the panes—unsightly, but a good temporary measure until you can find a better solution.

• Break up external reflections with stickers or plastic wrap.
Break up window reflections by sticking objects to the outside of the glass. Black plastic silhouettes of a falcon, hawk, or owl sometimes work, not because they look like predators but because they disrupt the window's reflectivity. Semi-transparent stickers can also do the job—some have decorative bird shapes, or look like spider webs. Sheets of plastic food wrap may work too.

• Disrupt reflections with spray-on materials or soap.
Try spraying fake Christmas snow on the outside of the window, or drawing streaks across it with bar soap. Again, the goal is to break up external reflections.

• Attach branches in front of windows.
For a more natural look, attach dead tree branches in front of your window. They may cause the birds to slow down and avoid the window as they fly toward it. You can arrange the branches so they don't obscure your view.

• Attach hanging objects to deter birds.
Hang lightweight, shiny items in front of the window so they move in the breeze and dissuade birds from approaching. Try strips of shiny, reflective plastic (hung a few inches apart), old aluminum pie plates, or unwanted compact discs.

• Reduce reflections with trees or awnings.
Reduce the amount of light reaching a problem window by planting shade trees close to it. This will help prevent reflections. However, it will also obstruct your view. Trees take time to grow, so consider shading your window with an awning instead. Either one may help birds by reducing the amount of sky reflected in windows.

• Cover windows with netting.
Place netting over the window. It provides a physical barrier to birds flying into the glass, yet won't obstruct your view. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology installed crop netting—the kind used to keep birds away from fruit trees—in front of a large picture window next to the bird-feeding garden. The result? No more dead and injured birds. Small-mesh netting is best—5/8" (1.6 cm) in diameter—so if birds do fly into it they won't get their heads or bodies entangled but will bounce off unharmed. You can mount the netting on a frame, such as a storm-window frame, for easy installation and removal. You could also try insect screening material.

• Install windows tilting downwards.
If you're installing new windows, ask your contractor to position them slightly off vertical, facing downwards. Then the outer window surface will reflect the ground rather than the sky and trees, but won't affect your view from inside the house. Be aware, though, that this may void your warranty. Your contractor or architect may have other useful ideas about how to minimize habitat reflection in your windows.

www.backyardbirdcare.org

Landscape Vision Design Software: Garden Tips

Sunday, April 23, 2006

Gardening Tips

6 Steps To turn your backyard into a Sanctuary For Birds