Sunday, October 01, 2006

Creating A Vibrant Fall Garden

For at least the first decade of my life as a gardener, when the sweltering August heat turned my yard into what looked like a hayfield, I all but considered the gardening season finished. I always felt cheated that, although the calendar still registered summertime, the creative planning and planting I so enjoyed was over until spring.

At some point, though, it became clear to me that fall actually was a separate and satisfying gardening season. By experimenting with a variety of fall-blooming bushes, tree and perennials, I discovered I could cajole an extra two months of color and texture -- with such great success that I realized fall is the unheralded jewel of the gardening seasons.

To create a fall garden, you need some basic knowledge of the trees, bushes and perennials that are at the apex of their bloom and color then. Select specimens that you like and believe will work well in your garden. Take into consideration your site variables (sunny, shady, moist, dry), the amount of space available for planting, how your plant selections will complement the other specimens already ensconced in your garden and whether the specimens are hardy in your region. (Check the U.S. Department of Agriculture's map of climate zones.)

The specimens you choose should be planted enough in advance so they have a chance to get acclimated to their new home before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, remember to add organic matter to your soil so it's rich and crumbly, dig a hole deep and wide enough so the roots can spread out easily when planted, tamp the soil around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets and use a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to protect the plant throughout the winter.

Finally, water, water, water. It's easy to assume that plants don't require as much water in the fall. Not true. Any time of the year, the first two to four weeks after planting are the most critical for future health. I have found that the most efficient, effective method of watering is to pull a hose up to the base of the tree or bush. I use a slow trickle that is soaked up almost immediately by the roots.

There's such an abundance of fall-blooming specimens that it's difficult to choose among them -- but I have my favorites. All of these woody bushes and perennials are beautiful and hardy and give terrific "bang for the buck"; several offer gorgeous blooms and scents in the spring, with rapturous fall foliage. When designing your autumn garden, think in terms of oranges, yellows, purples, carmine red, and light violets and blues. It's the garden's last dance before it goes to sleep.

Plants I recommend for the autumn garden.

Shrubs:
Cotinus coggygria "Royal Purple" (smoke bush). This bushy shrub's oval, dark reddish-purple summer leaves turn scarlet in autumn. It can be grown in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in either partial shade or full sun and does best when used as a specimen planting or foundation planting. Hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

Hamamelis (witch hazel). This is a small genus consisting of only five or six deciduous woody shrubs that are grown for their luxurious autumn color as well as their fragrant, spider-shaped winter flowers. It grows in fairly fertile, acidic to neutral soil in partial shade to full sun (but not in an exposed site) and looks terrific grouped in a shrub border or woodland setting. Depending on the species, these can be hardy anywhere from Zone 3 to Zone 9.

Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire). This native shrub is grown for its holly-like leaves with small, aromatic white flowers that bloom in spring. Leaves turn from green to red to purple in fall. It does best when grown in slightly acidic soil, in partial shade to full sun. I have had success growing it in both moist and somewhat dry soil. Virginia sweetspire is maximized when grown in a shrub or mixed border. Hardy in Zones 6 to 9.

Perennials:
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (perennial leadwort). This bushy plant grows only 18 inches tall, with oval green leaves that turn deep orange and red in autumn. Cornflower-blue clusters bloom in late summer through fall on reddish stems, making it ideal for mixed borders or containers. It does well in moist, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Hardy in Zones 6 to 9.

Molinia (moor grass). This genus of only two species of perennial grass is grown for its attractive form, autumn foliage and loose, airy panicles. It grows well in moist, preferably acidic to neutral soil, in partial shade or full sun, and spreads rapidly. Great for use in masses in a border or as a specimen planting. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

Panicum virgatum "Heavy Metal" (switch grass). This 6-foot-tall grass forms clumps of silver-blue stalks that turn yellow in autumn. Its elegant panicles develop red to bronze tones when fall approaches. It does well in almost any decent soil in full sun. Hardy in Zones 5 to 10.

Article By Fran Sorin
www.fransorin.com