Fran Sorin, a garden designer, writer and nationally known gardening expert is changing how people perceive gardening. Her multi-media exposure reflects her philosophy that, just like exercising regularly or following a wholesome diet, gardening is necessary for living a healthier life. http://fransorin.com/book/
Below is a list of five perennials that can be planted during mid-summer and that are promised to be drought resistant (if you water consistently for the first weeks until the plant becomes adjusted to its new home).
1. Achillea specimens (Yarrow) has grey or green fernlike leaves with daisy like flowerheads that continue to bloom throughout the summer and fall. Comes in a variety of colors including: white, yellow, orange, red and pink. Depending on the species (over 85), they can be grown anywhere from Zone 3- 9. Check the species to make sure it thrives in your zone. Prefers full sun in an open space but will survive in a variety of conditions.
2. Coreopsis specimens (Tickseed) From 80-100 species of annuals and perennials that are part of the Asteraceae family. They have daisy like yellow or pink flowerheads that grow on long stalks and are attractive to bees. Long blooming period, great for cut flowers. A rapid spreader. Check species and your zone to make sure it thrives in your climate. Some species do well from Zone 3- 9. Grow in full sun or partial shade. Deadhead for continuous bloom.
3. Hemerocallis (Daylilies) These are one of the great workhorses of the garden. Daylilies are usually clump forming with thin, elongated leaves. Flowers come in a variety of forms and range in color from white to pink to
orange to yellow to a deep burgundy. Many daylilies are repeat blooming. Although they are rapid spreaders, they look most impressive when planted in drifts. They do well in sun, but will do just fine in partial shade. Hardy
in Zones 3-10.
4. Lavandula (Lavender) a group of aromatic shrubs and perennials that are grown mainly for their lavender spiked flowers full of fragrance which appeal to bees because of their high level of nectar. Does well in moderately fertile soil in full sun. Known to be grown abundantly in Mediterranean climates. Great for hillside plantings, border plantings and part of a perennial border. Leaves and flowerheads can be used as flowers, sachet and potpourri. Depending on the species, can be grown from Zones 5-9.
5. Sedum species (Stonecrop) Over 400 species of annuals and perennials that areusually succulent. The often fleshy and have 5 petaled flowers that bloom in the summer and the fall. Grow in fertile, well drained, neutral to a bit alkaline soil in full sun. Even when the flower is not in bloom in spring and early summer, the leaves and shape (fairly low growing mound) of the sedum offer an unusual texture and color to the mixed border or rock garden. Will continue to bloom throughout the fall season. Looks beautiful in the fall garden when combined with salvias, asters and fall blooming perennial grasses. Depending on species can thrive from Zones 5-9.
Article By Fran Sorin
Sunday, July 09, 2006
BUILDING A DREAM: What You Should Know Before You Build or Remodel Your Home
BUILDING A DREAM is the one online book every homeowner or contractor should read before remodeling or building a new home. Author and builder Greg Lowitz steps through key phases of home construction, from foundation and basement drainage to selecting windows. While many books discuss general building techniques, few point out the many tradeoffs you’ll face during construction. These tradeoffs arise because there is more than one way to build and budgets are rarely unlimited. During the course of construction, you’ll make countless decisions that affect your project cost. Using real-world experience and examples, you’ll discover hundreds of precious tips and recommendations rarely found in any one source - tips that will put your project on a solid footing, helping you to build it right from the start. Enjoy all 15 online chapters for one low price! PLEASE NOTE: BUILDING A DREAM IS ONLY AVAILABLE ONLINE. WE DO NOT SHIP HARDCOPIES.
Details from Builders Websource
www.builderswebsource.com
Details from Builders Websource
www.builderswebsource.com
Planting a garden under a tree can be challenging but it is not impossible.
Planting a garden under a tree can be challenging but it is not impossible. Doing some pre-garden planning will assist you in creating a garden that is quite pleasant to behold.
No matter where you live, your "climate zone", or what type of tree you have there are a few basic challenges in creating a flowerbed around a tree. Aside from the shade, you also have to deal with tree roots and the amount of moisture your tree needs to stay healthy.
A well-established tree will have large well-established roots. This narrows your options for a flower garden. Some trees don't like an additional 3 feet of soiled added near its trunk. Some trees, like Oak, do not like regular watering and some trees are "evergreen". This means even more shade and a constant shedding of dry leaves or needles.
Knowing the best conditions specific to your tree will be vital to your success. This will require a trip to a garden center or a bookstore. You also need to take some time looking at the shade pattern under your tree. Does your tree shed all its leaves in the winter? Is there an area under the tree that receives more sun during certain times of the day? Do you have areas of deep shade and areas of partial shade?
If you can afford a good tree trimming service, you can select certain branches of which removal will provide better sun. Many gardeners are amazed at what a little trimming and shaping can do to improve the tree's aesthetics as well as provide more sunlight to dapple the garden.
Your next step is to find areas of planting around the tree roots. Dampen the soil around the tree and gently use a shovel to find any areas that are relatively free of large roots. You may have to get on your hands and knees and use a small shovel. Cutting large roots can be damaging to the tree and its ability to resist strong winds. Smaller, spindly roots can be cut without harm. A tree trimming service may help you with this at the time you choose to trim branches. Or you can patiently work with the areas around the tree, which do allow you to shovel holes in the soil. Dig the holes as deep and wide as possible.
Now you are ready to select some pots and plant containers that will fit in the holes you have dug. To maximize your space, you will need, at least, several pots of the same size. For example, if one of your holes will accommodate an 8-inch pot, buy another just like it. Set the second pot aside, as you will use it later at the change of season. For unusual and creative effect, you can go to a thrift store or garage sale and select some old gravy boats, cooking pots, or even old shoes. This is where you can create a theme to your garden.
Whatever you use as a container will need drainage, so use a nail, carefully to poke a hole. If your nickel priced gravy boat splits don't worry, it is still usable in your garden. You can use a small groundcover plant such as creeping thyme and plant it in the pieces of the gravy boat. Then use some dirt and sphagnum moss to pack around the item so it is partially buried.
With your garden area prepared and having knowledge of your shades and sunlight areas, you are ready to start selecting your plants and flowers. You have a wide variety of categories from which to choose. There are some limitations but many Ferns, Bulbs, ornamental grasses, flowering ground cover, and flowers will thrive in shade to partial shade. Tall Biannuals like Foxglove go well with Perennial fern and produce stunning stalks of color. Wax begonias and Primrose come back year after year, and some annuals provide fun variety with each season. Your garden store will assist you in making the best selections.
Plants that you placed in your special containers, like the gravy boat, will need to be perennials, as it will be difficult to remove the container for re-planting. However, the second pot that you purchased and set aside can be planted up with a fresh variety of seasonal annuals. Simply dampen the soil around the pot under the tree, lift and replace. This is especially great with bulbs. As the bulbs die back, you simply lift the entire pot out of the ground and replace with a same-size pot with fresh seasonal bloomers. You can set the pot of bulbs away from site and leave them until autumn. Then put them back under the tree. The tree roots will grow around the pots, holding the hole open so you can easily slip a new pot in the same spot. You can save on water, because instead of having water stream away from your plants, you simply water the pot. This method works well with Oak trees that can develop rot with too much water around their roots in the summertime. Since the pots are buried or partially buried in the soil, it allows the flowers and plants to retain moisture. Perennials will find their own root room through the drainage holes in your pots and get the additional soil nutrients from the tree. You can hide any unappealing mechanics of your garden, such as pot lips, by banking soil and sphagnum moss. Eventually groundcover will provide such coverage. In addition to all this, you still get to go to the garden center, when the urge hits, and get an annual or six-pack and replace one of your pots under the tree.
Written by Laurie Kennabrew
Laurie Kennabrew has worked in the profession of Landscaping, off and on for over 20 years.
No matter where you live, your "climate zone", or what type of tree you have there are a few basic challenges in creating a flowerbed around a tree. Aside from the shade, you also have to deal with tree roots and the amount of moisture your tree needs to stay healthy.
A well-established tree will have large well-established roots. This narrows your options for a flower garden. Some trees don't like an additional 3 feet of soiled added near its trunk. Some trees, like Oak, do not like regular watering and some trees are "evergreen". This means even more shade and a constant shedding of dry leaves or needles.
Knowing the best conditions specific to your tree will be vital to your success. This will require a trip to a garden center or a bookstore. You also need to take some time looking at the shade pattern under your tree. Does your tree shed all its leaves in the winter? Is there an area under the tree that receives more sun during certain times of the day? Do you have areas of deep shade and areas of partial shade?
If you can afford a good tree trimming service, you can select certain branches of which removal will provide better sun. Many gardeners are amazed at what a little trimming and shaping can do to improve the tree's aesthetics as well as provide more sunlight to dapple the garden.
Your next step is to find areas of planting around the tree roots. Dampen the soil around the tree and gently use a shovel to find any areas that are relatively free of large roots. You may have to get on your hands and knees and use a small shovel. Cutting large roots can be damaging to the tree and its ability to resist strong winds. Smaller, spindly roots can be cut without harm. A tree trimming service may help you with this at the time you choose to trim branches. Or you can patiently work with the areas around the tree, which do allow you to shovel holes in the soil. Dig the holes as deep and wide as possible.
Now you are ready to select some pots and plant containers that will fit in the holes you have dug. To maximize your space, you will need, at least, several pots of the same size. For example, if one of your holes will accommodate an 8-inch pot, buy another just like it. Set the second pot aside, as you will use it later at the change of season. For unusual and creative effect, you can go to a thrift store or garage sale and select some old gravy boats, cooking pots, or even old shoes. This is where you can create a theme to your garden.
Whatever you use as a container will need drainage, so use a nail, carefully to poke a hole. If your nickel priced gravy boat splits don't worry, it is still usable in your garden. You can use a small groundcover plant such as creeping thyme and plant it in the pieces of the gravy boat. Then use some dirt and sphagnum moss to pack around the item so it is partially buried.
With your garden area prepared and having knowledge of your shades and sunlight areas, you are ready to start selecting your plants and flowers. You have a wide variety of categories from which to choose. There are some limitations but many Ferns, Bulbs, ornamental grasses, flowering ground cover, and flowers will thrive in shade to partial shade. Tall Biannuals like Foxglove go well with Perennial fern and produce stunning stalks of color. Wax begonias and Primrose come back year after year, and some annuals provide fun variety with each season. Your garden store will assist you in making the best selections.
Plants that you placed in your special containers, like the gravy boat, will need to be perennials, as it will be difficult to remove the container for re-planting. However, the second pot that you purchased and set aside can be planted up with a fresh variety of seasonal annuals. Simply dampen the soil around the pot under the tree, lift and replace. This is especially great with bulbs. As the bulbs die back, you simply lift the entire pot out of the ground and replace with a same-size pot with fresh seasonal bloomers. You can set the pot of bulbs away from site and leave them until autumn. Then put them back under the tree. The tree roots will grow around the pots, holding the hole open so you can easily slip a new pot in the same spot. You can save on water, because instead of having water stream away from your plants, you simply water the pot. This method works well with Oak trees that can develop rot with too much water around their roots in the summertime. Since the pots are buried or partially buried in the soil, it allows the flowers and plants to retain moisture. Perennials will find their own root room through the drainage holes in your pots and get the additional soil nutrients from the tree. You can hide any unappealing mechanics of your garden, such as pot lips, by banking soil and sphagnum moss. Eventually groundcover will provide such coverage. In addition to all this, you still get to go to the garden center, when the urge hits, and get an annual or six-pack and replace one of your pots under the tree.
Written by Laurie Kennabrew
Laurie Kennabrew has worked in the profession of Landscaping, off and on for over 20 years.
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