Saturday, July 16, 2011

Tablets

Just purchased a new Xoom Tablet wondering if anyone reading this can share their thoughts on tablets. So far I'm diggin' this one!

Thursday, July 14, 2011

How to Keep Wild Birds Healthy around Your Feeders



From our friends at Scott'S  We love their Scott's Products check them out.

A Clean Feeder Helps Keep Birds Healthy

Bird Feeder
When you think about it, those cute little wild birds are pretty tough. They have to survive hot summers, cold winters, and lots of migrating. But even that tough crowd can pick up diseases from your feeders if they're not properly cared for. Here are some helpful tips to keep your feeders doing the job you want them to: feeding healthy wild birds.
bird feeder

Avoid Overcrowding

Having too many birds at one feeder can be a problem. They fight. They bicker. They mess up the food. If this is happening, place another feeder nearby, but not too close.
Hopper Feeder

Keep Your Food Fresh

Check your feeders regularly. If the food is moldy or wet, replace it with fresh food right away.
mouse

Pest-Proof Your Wild-Bird Food Storage

If rodents or other animals are an issue where you live, be sure to store your food in heavy-duty containers and always be sure to sweep up any spills.

Protect Your Birds, and Yourself

Make sure your feeder has no sharp points or pointy objects sticking out.
Regular Silo

Keep Your Feeder Clean

Be sure to clean your feeders regularly, every 2 or 3 weeks is recommended. Take a look at our easy steps for cleaning your feeder.
1. Clean and wash the feeder in soapy water.
2. Make a 10% solution of liquid chlorine household bleach (14 oz) in a gallon of warm water. Mix sufficient solution to enable complete immersion of the empty bird feeder.
3. Immerse feeder in the solution for a period of 2-3 minutes. Allow to thoroughly dry before refilling with seed.
Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned with a mild bleach solution each time you fill the feeder.
Around your feeder, remove any bird droppings or seed, seed bits, or seed hulls that begin to accumulate; regularly rake the ground below. Each season, relocate the feeder a few feet from its present location.

Monday, July 11, 2011

BHG015-Supporting Your Plants; Why it’s Important

Burpee Home Gardens Podcast with Joe Lamp'l
Although most vining plants will produce an adequate harvest if left alone, when practical, they’d all benefit from some vertical support. Besides the added benefit of conserving space and getting more out of your garden’s footprint, by growing plants vertically, we open them up to much needed air circulation and light; two things very important for keeping plants healthy and productive. In this podcast, Joe Lamp’l sheds some light and what you need to know to support your plants properly.
BHG015 – Supporting Your Plants
So at one time or another, we’ve all heard or said; “Oh, grow up!!!” Besides the implication of acting like a child, there was a lot more to the expression. It refers to being ready for the challenges that lie ahead, and the same applies to many of the plants in our garden! Although most vining plants will produce an adequate harvest if left alone, when practical, they’d all benefit from some vertical support. In the home garden, the most common candidates include tomatoes, cucumbers, pole beans and peas.
Besides the added benefit of conserving space and getting more out of your garden’s footprint, by growing plants vertically, we open them up to much needed air circulation and light; two things very important for keeping plants healthy and productive. The air circulation helps to dry out plant leaves faster, so less the chance for diseases to take hold. Similarly, when a plant is properly supported, more sunlight reaches more leaf surface. We already know by now just how important it is for plants to take in maximum sunlight each day, so by providing that opportunity as our Burpee Home Garden plants grow, the better off they’ll be.
And there’s another very important reason to support your plants. Some plants become laden with fruit and the weight of even one large tomato or a cluster of peppers can be more than the stem of that plant can bear. Without adequate support, the plant eventually gives way under all the weight of ripening fruit. Usually the stem folds over or breaks. Either way, now you have a situation that will affect the future health and harvest, and I KNOW you don’t want that. So even with non-vining, woody-stemmed plants, like peppers and eggplants, staking is a prudent action that will protect your plants.
So what’s the best type of support for all the plants in your garden? Well, that depends. Some plants climb rather than twine. Small finger-like tendrils reach and grab onto whatever they comes in contact with. Cucumbers and peas are classic climbers. Twine, netting or galvanized fencing works well, largely because of the many contact points for the tendrils to find as the plant grows up. Climbers by contract, wind their way around their support. Pole beans are the classic climbers. Provide these plants with tall pieces of bamboo or other similar support and stand back.
And then you have those plants that aren’t considered climbers or twiners, but still need to be supported to keep them upright under the weight of ripening fruit. Tomatoes are the most common plant like this. I always support my tomatoes, even bush varieties. As for the taller, plants, my favorite method is to use a large, sturdy round wire cage made from heavy fencing, with the plant growing up within in. But there are endless ways to support your plants, so you’ll need to decide what works best for you. Smaller plants like peppers and eggplants do well with simple staking. Just be sure not to bind the plant too tightly. Always use something soft and flexible. My favorite methods are to use florist tape or Velcro plant ties. Even an old pair of stockings is ideal for its flexibility and strength, but again, there are many choices!
So just because we’ve provided the right location for our plants when we created our garden, it’s important to make sure we keep it that way. By helping them grow “up”, we’ll have a healthier, and more productive garden too.And speaking of support, there are 26 Burpee Home Gardens podcasts in this series, all created to provide the support you need to get your garden off to a great start, and see it through, all the way to harvest. You can subscribe to the entire series for free in iTunes. Or find them at burpeehomegardens.com, along with a lot more helpful ideas and inspiration anytime.
Now go get dirty!
Learn more from Growing a Greener World 

Green Tip of The Day

From our friend Melinda Myers   Learn from Melinda

Shade Trees
SHADE TREES.JPG
Reduce your energy bill while increasing the beauty of your landscape. Adding a few well placed trees to your landscape can decrease your energy bills. Adding as few as three properly placed shade trees can lower air conditioning costs by as much as 30%. Plant shade trees on the east and west side of your home for the greatest energy savings. Trees shading the roof from the afternoon sun can reduce your home’s temperature by as much as 8 to 10 degrees.
 

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Stop Unwanted Junk Mail

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Windbreaks

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How to keep slugs away

Stephen Lacey finds that Longstock Park, which is never knowingly undermined by slug damage

Slug
Tackling slugs: target slugs by watering on nematodes where badly affected plants will grow 
In Hampshire with a morning free, I paid my first visit to Longstock Park, the residential and agricultural estate owned by the John Lewis Partnership.
I went for a rummage in the nursery, but bumped into Peter Moore, the plant breeder (Choisya 'Aztec Pearl’, Buddleja 'Silver Anniversary’ and Cotinus 'Dusky Maiden’), who, after a career at Hillier Nurseries, is now on the staff. He invited me to see the famous Water Garden, normally open only on periodic Sundays.
The presentation is immaculate – seven acres of crystal-clear lakes and waterways, perfect lawns and drifts of bog plants, woven around little bridges and islands, and a thatched summer house, equipped with phone, from where the partnership’s founder John Spedan Lewis, who developed the garden from 1946, could keep an ear to the business.
What particularly caught my eye were the sweeps of hostas: not a slug or snail hole to be seen. Clearly, some serious chemical warfare was going on.
Absolutely not, head gardener Rob Ballard assured me. The whole garden is run organically and, as for the hostas, nothing is used on them at all. His secret is to allow no leaf debris to accumulate around them, and therefore no hiding places, and should any holes appear, the plant is searched until the culprit is found.
It is partly because of the slug issue that hostas have fallen out of fashion with garden designers, who don’t want to make their planting dependent on pest control. Also, the more ornamental hostas are now considered an embarrassment popping out of the grassy, naturalistic style prevailing today.
Happily, home gardeners have remained loyal. Hosta sales figures remain buoyant, according to Bowden Hostas, nursery by appointment to HRH the Prince of Wales, who leads the hosta fan club with a National Collection at Highgrove. As for slugs, we all devise our own methods of dealing with the blighters – sharp grit, coffee grounds, beer traps, barrier sprays, nematodes… or slug pellets.
One way to sidestep the problem is to grow hostas in tubs and pots – which can make stunning features. In the borders at home, I use organic pellets like Growing Success, widely available in shops, which are harmless to other wildlife.
I scatter them around the emerging hosta snouts in early spring and then a few more times until midsummer, when I stop, which leaves me with the odd munched leaf, but I can live with that. But with my stone and brick walls, and leafy understorey, planting hostas in sweeps as at Longstock would be reckless. So, I have them as solitary punctuation points and a means of maintaining interest among plants that finish flowering early.
It is the blue-leaved hostas I like the best. There are few other plants with that leaf colour (Berberis temolaica, Fothergilla gardenii 'Blue Mist’ and some rhododendrons among shrubs; Thalictrum flavum subsp. glaucum, Macleaya cordata and Kniphofia caulescens among perennials), and they are terrific in shade with purple cimicifuga, blue and pink-flowered geraniums, alliums and much else.
There are lots of newer varieties but mid-sized 'Halcyon’ and its variegated sport 'June’ – a superb lime-green and blue in shade – and the large-leaved H. sieboldiana 'Elegans’ and its lime-edged counterpart 'Frances Williams’ – are still hard to beat. Revitalise every five years or so by lifting, dividing and replanting the outer segments. Happily, their thick textured leaves are less attractive to slugs.