Here’s a pointer I like to dust off every year about this time, when you have to have a lot of imagination and intestinal fortitude to take on any outdoor gardening tasks. ’Tis the season for . . . seed catalogues, when you can let that imagination run wild.
This year, I’m going to run this as a multi-part series on catalogues of all types, from seeds to live plants. I’m a big proponent of the local garden centers, mind you, and you can usually find more gardening stuff at your favorite local greenhouse than at any time in horticultural history. There’s still a place on my coffee table gardening catalogues, though. They’re one of my favorite things about gardening. And, besides, they’re great for those last-minute gardening gift ideas.
For this edition, we’ll take a look at the seed entities in my own state of Maine where six companies, and at least two non-profit organizations, offer just about anything you could need within the pages of their catalogues. Buy your seeds locally and you’ll get the satisfaction of supporting small local enterprises —with the added benefit of all that great local knowledge that you’ll never find in the national catalogues.
Here’s a rundown, with some of the history and flavor that makes all these catalogues unique:
Allen, Sterling & Lothrop — This company has been around since 1911 and, somehow refreshingly, hasn’t changed much at all in the past 94 years. This year’s catalogue looks like last year’s catalogue, and the one before that, and the one before that.
In this lightning-fast Internet world where change rules, this Falmouth company has carved out a niche by offering mostly the same varieties of seed that our grandparents grew. The packages are still packed by hand in a back room, most of them by octogenarians Mickey and Isabelle Maguire, and their granddaughter Jennifer Brannigan.
The big news here is that AS&L joined the 21st century by securing a web domain in 2005. It’s kind of like having your grandmother driving a Ferrari, but in this day and age I’m sure a lot of grandmothers probably do. For the old-fashioned way of shopping, you can order the 31-page black-and-white catalogue by calling 207-781-4142, or better yet, visit the charming garden center at 191 U.S. Route 1 in Falmouth — but not on Sundays. That’s their family day and still remains sacred.
Fedco— This revolutionary enterprise was founded in 1978 as a cooperative seed distribution network in which the patrons of the company are the owners. Bulk orders are always encouraged; if you get together with your gardening friends and neighbors and place an order through Fedco, you will almost always save money.
Like Allen, Sterling & Lothrop, this seed source eschewed the Internet as a marketing tool for many years. A website, www.fedcoseeds.com , is up and running and offers a nice, online taste of what the company is all about. A catalogue can be downloaded, and the company even posts its phone number at 207-873-3333. For many years, it didn’t even like to take phone calls.
Despite all those upgrades in convenience, the catalogue really must be seen to be fully appreciated. Printed on recycled newsprint, it teems with invaluable local information. You tell easily tell that the authors of the seed descriptions grow the plants themselves, often in Zone 4 central Maine locations that test a gardener’s skill. Organic culture is always stressed and none of the seeds are ever treated with fungicide.
To receive a Fedco catalogue in the mail, write to P.O. Box 520, Waterville, Maine 04903-0520.
Johnny's Selected Seeds — Easily Maine’s largest seed company and recognized as a national industry leader, Johnny’s still manages to reflect its roots as a tiny proprietorship formed in 1973. The founder, Robert L. Johnston Jr., is a research scientist at heart. Through his directive, the company runs the most thorough seed testing process in the country. A trial garden in Albion, measuring 120 acres, allows the staff to evaluate each vegetable, herb, flower and garden product.
The catalogue is also recognized as one of the most valuable in the country. Packed with equal parts information and colorful glossy photographs, it has been redesigned in recent years to be more colorful and user friendly.
Buying from Johnny’s is easier than ever. The company finally accepts orders toll free (800-879-2258) or the Internet www.johnnyseeds.com. Even better, orders are filled whenever possible within 24 hours.
Incidentally, Rob Johnston sent us an awesome exclusive article on the best-tasting varieties of 14 different kinds of vegetables in the upcoming January issue of our magazine. It made my mouth water just reading his first-hand descriptions.
Pinetree Garden Seeds — The size of the average package of seeds has always driven Portland resident Dick Meiners crazy. Why do companies put 100 tomato seeds in a package, he wondered, when the average gardener only grows 12 plants?
In 1979, he did something about his pet peeve by founding his own company. Specializing in small packages at fair prices, New Gloucester-based Pinetree Seeds has carved out a unique niche in the home garden segment of the seed catalogue world. By keeping prices down, Meiners has allowed gardeners to experiment with many new varieties of plants—as well as books and equipment.
The catalogue is a cross between the newsprint, no-photo appeal of Fedco, and the glossy, professional look of Johnny’s. The descriptions, written by the gardeners on the Pinetree staff, are informative and personal. Order by phone (207-926-3400), fax (888-52seeds) or on the Internet www.superseeds.com.
Vesey’s— Based in Prince Edward Island, Vesey's Seeds Ltd., is not a true Maine company. It does, however, offer a Calais address and a product selection that is ideal for the local gardener.
The founder, Arthur Vesey, was a market gardener who struggled to find seeds that would thrive in the short growing season in PEI. In 1939, he published the first catalogue of some of his discoveries; by the ’60s, his company featuring “seeds for short seasons” was a full-blown international enterprise.
Vesey’s makes ordering easy and affordable with a toll-free number (800-363-7333), along with fax orders (800-686-0329) and Internet access www.veseys.com.
The Maine Potato Catalog—Facing an uncertain economic future in trying to grow organic produce in Aroostook County, Jim Gerritson needed a way to diversify his family farm in the past decade. His answer became this unique ode to spuds that has grown to become a 36-page full-color booklet.
The family’s staple offerings are the Potato of The Month Club that will deliver a fresh supply of organic potatoes to your door each month, and the certified organic seed potatoes that you can grow in your own garden. The catalogue also features carrots, onions, garlic, shallots, parsnips and other crops — all grown organically in Bridgewater, five hours north of Portland near Presque Isle. You may order a catalogue seven days a week at 800-829-9765, or click on www.woodprairie.com to get a virtual tour.
Our television crew visited the Gerritson family during harvest season one September and watched in amazement as the year’s crop of potatoes was picked by hand — mostly by junior high school students on farm break. It’s one of the few operations of its kind left in America, and definitely worth supporting.
Medomak Valley Heirloom Seed Project — Teachers Jon Thurston and Neil Lash deserve a world of kudos for introducing their high school students to the world of gardening. The students, in turn, spread the information to the rest of us through their truly unique catalogue offering a host of heirloom seeds.
Even designed by students, the catalogue can be ordered by writing to Heirloom Seed Project, 320 Manktown Road, Waldoboro, Maine 04572. Please include a nine by 12-inch SASE envelope and $1. The students don’t publish seed prices, but do ask for your donations if you order.
Maine Seed Saver Exchange — Dedicated to preserving genetic diversity in backyard gardening, this nonprofit group promotes saving rare heirloom varieties. Within the 24-page catalogue, you'll find everything from ‘Fogg’ melons, originally grown at the Fogg Homestead in Readfield, Maine, to ‘Cambridge’ rutabagas, which the catalogue states were “found and rescued from the steamship ‘Cambridge,’ which sank in the Atlantic Ocean on Feb. 10, 1886, after striking the Old Man's Ledge off of Friendship, Maine.”
Its a valuable endeavor, well worth supporting by joining the Exchange for $15. For the catalogue only, send $2 to cover postage to Box 60, New Gloucester, ME 04260.
Speaking of catalogues . . . How would you like to receive $25 to spend at one of America’s best gardening companies? That’s what you get if you subscribe to People, Places & Plants magazine right now in time for the holidays. Here’s the deal: First off, it’s $5 off ($19.95 instead of $24.95). Second, you’ll receive a $25 gift certificate to a catalogue supplier known as www.gardensalive.com. We’ll also send you the discount card good for 10 percent off at more than 500 local garden centers in the Northeast. On top of ALL that, we’ll send a $5 donation to the American Red Cross for every subscription we sell between now and Christmas. We think it’s a tremendous gift idea. You can sign up online here, or by calling Mike or Deb at 800-251-1784.
Paul Tukey, December 12, 2005.
Monday, December 12, 2005
Monday, December 05, 2005
Use Discretion in Creating Plant Decorations
One of the best, and most abused, ways for a gardener to enjoy the holidays is to use plants as part of the celebration. Cut trees are often the centerpiece, along with the indoor plants, including poinsettias and holiday cactus we have written about here in recent weeks. They’re all great and serve their purpose.
Wreaths and swags containing parts of plants are also part of many families’ holiday traditions. Utilizing foliage, berries, twigs, cones, seeds and seedpods and bark, craft-minded gardeners can create some beautiful decorations.
In general, these are perfectly fine ways to use plants. As folks head out to gather materials, though, I’d like to make a few points:
1) though pruning evergreens won’t hurt the plants, you should prune correctly;
2) always ask permission to prune plants not on your own property;
3) avoid using invasive species of plants as part of your decorations, or at least dispose of them properly if you do;
4) treat nature kindly while you’re searching;
5) review the list of poisonous plants, especially if you have children or pets in and around the home.
PRUNING — Needled evergreens are among the most resilient of plants and will generally tolerate even the most callous of sheering. It’s far better for your plants, though, if you take care to prune properly with a sharp knife or other tool. Try to prune at nodes, which are points on the stems when budding or branching occurs.
Broad-leafed evergreens such as mountain laurel or rhododendron are a bit less tolerant. Keep in mind, too, that if you snip those plants this time of year, you may be removing next spring’s blossoms. It’s your plant; you’ll have to decide if it’s worth it.
PERMISSION — Taking plants, or parts of plants off other people’s property technically constitutes trespassing and, probably, theft. I have a friend at a local police department who said his station always gets a few calls about missing trees or branches during the holidays. Most people will probably allow you to collect a few evergreen tips if you ask politely and show them you know what you’re doing.
INVASIVES — One of my pet peeves is other magazines who promote wreaths made with Asiatic bittersweet. While beautiful because of its bright reddish-orange berries, bittersweet is a nasty invasive. If these seeds drop off your wreath, they can later germinate and contribute to the spread of this plant. Click here for a list of other invasive plants.
If you insist on using invasive plants, try to burn your wreaths after the holidays, or add them to garbage that’s going to an incinerator rather than a landfill.
NATURE — As I’ve learned on numerous hikes with Dr. Richard Churchill, our staff botanist, nature can be more tender than we may think. Trampling moss, peeling bark off trees or stealing birds nests from trees is just bad form. Don’t do it. You can usually find plenty of other materials for decorations.
POISONS — Though not high on the list of holiday perils, plant poisonings do show up in the news from time to time. The berries of holly, mistletoe and yew all contain compounds with varying degrees of toxicity. If you suspect a plant poisoning, call the American Association of Poison Control Centers’ national emergency hotline at 800-222-1222. You will be immediately connected to a poison center in your local area. For one of the best databases of poisonous plants, check out Cornell University’s web site.
With only a few weeks remaining until Christmas and Hanukkah, which begins on Christmas day this year, we hope you’ll consider taking advantage of our awesome holiday subscription offer. Through a special advertising promotion, we are able to offer all subscribers and gift recipients a $25 coupon toward any merchandise at Gardens Alive, one of the nation’s leading garden catalogue companies. We’re also cut the price for a one-year subscription by $5, to $19.95, and we’re donating an additional $5 to the American Red Cross hurricane relief effort. You can click here https://www.ppplants.com/order/holiday.html to take advantage.
Paul Tukey, December 5, 2005.
Wreaths and swags containing parts of plants are also part of many families’ holiday traditions. Utilizing foliage, berries, twigs, cones, seeds and seedpods and bark, craft-minded gardeners can create some beautiful decorations.
In general, these are perfectly fine ways to use plants. As folks head out to gather materials, though, I’d like to make a few points:
1) though pruning evergreens won’t hurt the plants, you should prune correctly;
2) always ask permission to prune plants not on your own property;
3) avoid using invasive species of plants as part of your decorations, or at least dispose of them properly if you do;
4) treat nature kindly while you’re searching;
5) review the list of poisonous plants, especially if you have children or pets in and around the home.
PRUNING — Needled evergreens are among the most resilient of plants and will generally tolerate even the most callous of sheering. It’s far better for your plants, though, if you take care to prune properly with a sharp knife or other tool. Try to prune at nodes, which are points on the stems when budding or branching occurs.
Broad-leafed evergreens such as mountain laurel or rhododendron are a bit less tolerant. Keep in mind, too, that if you snip those plants this time of year, you may be removing next spring’s blossoms. It’s your plant; you’ll have to decide if it’s worth it.
PERMISSION — Taking plants, or parts of plants off other people’s property technically constitutes trespassing and, probably, theft. I have a friend at a local police department who said his station always gets a few calls about missing trees or branches during the holidays. Most people will probably allow you to collect a few evergreen tips if you ask politely and show them you know what you’re doing.
INVASIVES — One of my pet peeves is other magazines who promote wreaths made with Asiatic bittersweet. While beautiful because of its bright reddish-orange berries, bittersweet is a nasty invasive. If these seeds drop off your wreath, they can later germinate and contribute to the spread of this plant. Click here for a list of other invasive plants.
If you insist on using invasive plants, try to burn your wreaths after the holidays, or add them to garbage that’s going to an incinerator rather than a landfill.
NATURE — As I’ve learned on numerous hikes with Dr. Richard Churchill, our staff botanist, nature can be more tender than we may think. Trampling moss, peeling bark off trees or stealing birds nests from trees is just bad form. Don’t do it. You can usually find plenty of other materials for decorations.
POISONS — Though not high on the list of holiday perils, plant poisonings do show up in the news from time to time. The berries of holly, mistletoe and yew all contain compounds with varying degrees of toxicity. If you suspect a plant poisoning, call the American Association of Poison Control Centers’ national emergency hotline at 800-222-1222. You will be immediately connected to a poison center in your local area. For one of the best databases of poisonous plants, check out Cornell University’s web site.
With only a few weeks remaining until Christmas and Hanukkah, which begins on Christmas day this year, we hope you’ll consider taking advantage of our awesome holiday subscription offer. Through a special advertising promotion, we are able to offer all subscribers and gift recipients a $25 coupon toward any merchandise at Gardens Alive, one of the nation’s leading garden catalogue companies. We’re also cut the price for a one-year subscription by $5, to $19.95, and we’re donating an additional $5 to the American Red Cross hurricane relief effort. You can click here https://www.ppplants.com/order/holiday.html to take advantage.
Paul Tukey, December 5, 2005.
Monday, November 28, 2005
Last-Minute Outdoor Tasks
Remember about three weeks ago, when I gave you the list of everything I still planned to get done in the garden before winter set in? Well, I don’t know about you, but the warmer-than-usual November lulled me into thinking that autumn would last a bit longer here in Northern New England. When the snow finally did come just before Thanksgiving, it caught my household by surprise.
The hose froze in place right in the driveway; the compost pile crusted over with a layer of ice before it was fully spread. With a bit of a thaw, though, it looks as if we’re going to get a reprieve. Daytime temperatures for Tuesday through Thursday of this week are projected to be well above freezing in most of our region — 50-65 in Manhattan, 50 to 60 in Hartford, Conn., and 43 to 53 throughout Maine from Portland to Houlton.
Let’s take one last look at the remaining outdoor to-do list for December.
Labeling— Make the rounds one last time to make sure your plant labels are in place and legible. I’ve long-forgotten cultivar names and without accurate labels, I’m lost. It’s important to me, because I use my gardens to report back to you. Are cultivar names important to you? If so, attend to the labels while you still can.
Mulching— Depending on where you live, the ground may or may not be frozen. In southern New England, you still don’t want to put down that winter mulch. In northern areas, you may be ready. It’s easy to tell. If you try to drive a shovel into the ground and it doesn’t easily pierce the soil surface, then the ground is frozen and mulch can go down.
Remember, the idea with mulch is to keep the ground frozen. If snow happens to fly again before the ground freezes — and the snow sticks — you don’t need to worry about applying the mulch until spring, or at least until the snow melts.
Bulbs—Believe it or not, I do still have some spring-flowering bulbs to go into the ground and plan to use my lunch hour on Wednesday to get them into the ground at last. I have no doubt they’ll sprout and bloom just fine next spring.
Planting— Yes, you can still plant any balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs or perennials until the ground freezes. I have some plants I spoke for at my local garden center and I’ll use my lunchtime on Thursday to go collect those and get them into the ground. Mulching will be doubly important on these plants, since I don’t want them to heave out of the ground when the soil thaws out prematurely next spring.
One other note: If you’re transporting trees or shrubs this late in the year, be certain to wrap them in burlap or a poly tarp for the ride — otherwise the wind will desiccate them and likely kill any exposed stems.
Holiday Trees — The same goes for transporting trees. Everywhere I turn, I see people with bare cut Christmas trees tied to the tops of their cars. These cold, windy rides are a terrible strain on the needles and will cause premature needle drop once the tree gets inside the home. Tote your tree inside the vehicle if possible, or take the time to wrap it inside a tarp if you have one handy.
Also, if you’re planning to bring a living tree indoors that you plan to plant outside after Christmas, it’s a good idea to dig the hole now before the ground fully freezes.
Check Snow Loads —Where I live, that first snow fall was a good opportunity to see how some of the new plants carry snow. You may want to make the effort to build a snow frame wrapped in burlap if you think your plants may not handle a heavy load of snow plunging from a roof or overhang. If this is a recurring problem, you may want to consider moving the plant to a new location next spring.
Check Your Watering —Around my home, we’ve had more than enough moisture and I’m quite certain that’s true throughout the Northeast. If you happen to have any new plantings that might not have received water lately, give them a deep drink now before the ground freezes solid. It will likely be the last water the plants get for a while.
Winterize Your Tools —Remove all soil and lubricate all moving parts. Sharpen your hoes, spades, loppers, saws and pruners and give those a good coating of lubrication as well. Paint any wooded-handled tools. Run the gas out of any power equipment and then drain the oil. Add winterizing agent to any leftover gasoline . . . and, yes, pick up those hoses that are still hanging around outside.
Purchase Your De-Icer — If you’ve got lawns and gardens around your front door, avoid purchasing products that have high sodium content. Kitty litter, salt-free sand and calcium chloride products are better choices for salt-sensitive plants. In many cases, hardscapes are also sensitive to salt.
Apply Anti-Dessicants — This oily coating helps plants’ foliage retain moisture on dry, cold winter days. You’ll probably want to reapply this again in mid to late January.
Paul Tukey - November 28, 2005.
The hose froze in place right in the driveway; the compost pile crusted over with a layer of ice before it was fully spread. With a bit of a thaw, though, it looks as if we’re going to get a reprieve. Daytime temperatures for Tuesday through Thursday of this week are projected to be well above freezing in most of our region — 50-65 in Manhattan, 50 to 60 in Hartford, Conn., and 43 to 53 throughout Maine from Portland to Houlton.
Let’s take one last look at the remaining outdoor to-do list for December.
Labeling— Make the rounds one last time to make sure your plant labels are in place and legible. I’ve long-forgotten cultivar names and without accurate labels, I’m lost. It’s important to me, because I use my gardens to report back to you. Are cultivar names important to you? If so, attend to the labels while you still can.
Mulching— Depending on where you live, the ground may or may not be frozen. In southern New England, you still don’t want to put down that winter mulch. In northern areas, you may be ready. It’s easy to tell. If you try to drive a shovel into the ground and it doesn’t easily pierce the soil surface, then the ground is frozen and mulch can go down.
Remember, the idea with mulch is to keep the ground frozen. If snow happens to fly again before the ground freezes — and the snow sticks — you don’t need to worry about applying the mulch until spring, or at least until the snow melts.
Bulbs—Believe it or not, I do still have some spring-flowering bulbs to go into the ground and plan to use my lunch hour on Wednesday to get them into the ground at last. I have no doubt they’ll sprout and bloom just fine next spring.
Planting— Yes, you can still plant any balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs or perennials until the ground freezes. I have some plants I spoke for at my local garden center and I’ll use my lunchtime on Thursday to go collect those and get them into the ground. Mulching will be doubly important on these plants, since I don’t want them to heave out of the ground when the soil thaws out prematurely next spring.
One other note: If you’re transporting trees or shrubs this late in the year, be certain to wrap them in burlap or a poly tarp for the ride — otherwise the wind will desiccate them and likely kill any exposed stems.
Holiday Trees — The same goes for transporting trees. Everywhere I turn, I see people with bare cut Christmas trees tied to the tops of their cars. These cold, windy rides are a terrible strain on the needles and will cause premature needle drop once the tree gets inside the home. Tote your tree inside the vehicle if possible, or take the time to wrap it inside a tarp if you have one handy.
Also, if you’re planning to bring a living tree indoors that you plan to plant outside after Christmas, it’s a good idea to dig the hole now before the ground fully freezes.
Check Snow Loads —Where I live, that first snow fall was a good opportunity to see how some of the new plants carry snow. You may want to make the effort to build a snow frame wrapped in burlap if you think your plants may not handle a heavy load of snow plunging from a roof or overhang. If this is a recurring problem, you may want to consider moving the plant to a new location next spring.
Check Your Watering —Around my home, we’ve had more than enough moisture and I’m quite certain that’s true throughout the Northeast. If you happen to have any new plantings that might not have received water lately, give them a deep drink now before the ground freezes solid. It will likely be the last water the plants get for a while.
Winterize Your Tools —Remove all soil and lubricate all moving parts. Sharpen your hoes, spades, loppers, saws and pruners and give those a good coating of lubrication as well. Paint any wooded-handled tools. Run the gas out of any power equipment and then drain the oil. Add winterizing agent to any leftover gasoline . . . and, yes, pick up those hoses that are still hanging around outside.
Purchase Your De-Icer — If you’ve got lawns and gardens around your front door, avoid purchasing products that have high sodium content. Kitty litter, salt-free sand and calcium chloride products are better choices for salt-sensitive plants. In many cases, hardscapes are also sensitive to salt.
Apply Anti-Dessicants — This oily coating helps plants’ foliage retain moisture on dry, cold winter days. You’ll probably want to reapply this again in mid to late January.
Paul Tukey - November 28, 2005.
Tuesday, November 22, 2005
The Truth About Holiday Plants
This edition of People, Places & Plants magazine, now out on newsstands and in subscribers’ mailboxes, contains an article that details the honest truth about five of the most popular indoor holiday plants: holiday cactus; gloxinias; azaleas; poinsettias and bromeliads. Before you plunk down your hard-earned cash at your local garden center, read the article. It may save you some frustration later on.
As a bonus, I dusted off some information about several other plants that are part of many holiday celebrations. They all have their merits . . .
Cyclamen — In white, red, lavender and pink, these members of the primrose family are one of the most prolific flowering plants for indoors. If you can keep your cyclamen in a bright room with cool evening temperatures between 50 and 60, with daytime temperatures at about 70, the plant may flower for several months.
After flowering, gradually withhold water until the foliage dies off. During this rest period, don’t water for six to eight weeks.
In the late spring and summer, you can move the pots into an area with little direct light. Cyclamen needs continually moist soil and won’t react well if it is allowed to wilt between waterings. Don’t keep the plant in standing water, though, and fertilize regularly while the new leaves form. Move the plants into more sunlight by early autumn and, with any luck, the plants will rebloom by the next holiday season.
Orchids — Many types of orchids work well as holiday decorations. Possibly the best and easiest to keep healthy is Cattleya trianea that blooms in white, pink or red.
If you purchase a new plant around the holidays, keep it in full sun at home through March. After that, indirect light will be best. Keep the area as humid as possible by setting the plant in a plastic or metal tray that has been filled to a depth of an inch or more with perlite or pebbles covered in water — but don’t let the roots of the orchid stand in water.
Amaryllis — This South African native is perhaps the most spectacular flowering plant for the holidays, coming in an assortment of vivid shades. It’s easy to bring to bloom simply by bringing the large bulb home and giving it water and a minimal amount of sun.
Getting the Amaryllis, Hippeastrum spp., to bloom in subsequent years will be the payback you’re looking for on a substantial investment. When the flowers are finished blooming, keep the pot in a sunny location, and continue to provide water and food throughout the spring and summer until the foliage dies back. You can event take the pot outside for the summer.
When the foliage is yellow or brown, cut it back and store the bulb in a cool, dry place with no water or sunlight.
After a month or three, repot the bulb in fresh potting mix, then water and feed it with bone meal or a fertilizer rich in phosphorus. Before long, the long stems should emerge from the soil and, with any luck, a spectacular bloom in time for next year.
Cape primrose — Another close cousin to the African violet, the Cape primrose, Streptocarpus spp., is easier to grow than gloxinia and the horn-shaped blooms are almost as large and more plentiful.
The good growers tell me a really light soil mix is key; purchase African violet mix and you can’t go wrong. Otherwise, grow your Cape primrose the same way you would a gloxinia or African violet, with moderate light and household temperatures. Avoid watering the foliage and keep constant moisture below the plant.
These will rebloom; in fact, if they’re really happy in the right soil mix, they’ll bloom indefinitely. If you can’t get them to bloom, always think first of the soil.
Kalanchoe — If you keep your home warm and want a holiday houseplant to thrive, this may be your choice. Kalanchoe, a native of Madagascar, will even forgive you for missing a watering, or two.
With rubbery textured leaves and glossy flowers, the plant can even look fake from a distance. I know I’ve pinched a few just to be sure.
As a houseplant in our climate, kalanchoe is oblivious to the seasons. When the flowers first die back, give the plant a rest period with reduced water, fertilizer and light. Unless it is too cold, it will likely begin to form new leaves and flower buds every other month or so. True kalanchoe afficionadoes will carefully monitor light levels during the rest period. The plant will reportedly put out bigger and more blossoms if light is limited to eight hours a day — with 16 hours in a closet — until flowering begins.
Reiger begonia — In the garden center, this is always a tempting plant for the holidays. Healthy specimens will literally be covered with red, orange, pink or white blossoms. With glossy leaves, it can make a spectacular centerpiece all on its own.
In my experience, though, they’re far more challenging in the home environment where they’ll react negatively to cool drafts, intense direct light when in bloom or the heat of a nearby furnace. They also like more humidity than can be found in most homes in winter, but this can be overcome by placing the plant atop a bed of pebbles and water — but don’t try to grow your Reiger in standing water.
The good news is that if you like these begonias, they’re rarely expensive. Purchasing a pot or two just for the holidays isn’t such a bad deal.
Chenile — Also known as red-hot cattail, or Acalypha hispida, this plant is among the most exotic of all houseplants. Nothing is more luxuriant that a chenille in full bloom, with cascading bright red “cattails” that resemble soft bottle brushes.
Think twice, though, before plunking down the $15 to $40 to bring a prime specimen home. These are difficult to grow in the typically dry home environment and, without the moisture available in a greenhouse setting, they will tend to drop their blossoms quickly.
Keep moisture under the pot, just as you would with begonias or orchids, but don’t put the plant in standing water.
“Don’t ever let the plant get cold,” said Ken Ellis of Sunset Greenhouses in Fairfield, Maine. “Give it as much sun as possible in the winter and at least half a day in the summer.”
Christmas peppers — A relatively new addition to the offerings of holiday plants, these “hot” peppers are the same members of the Capsicum annuum species that we use as ornamental peppers in the outdoor garden. In our climate, these peppers often need the later days of autumn and early winter to bear fruit anyway, so many people grow them in containers. Bringing them indoors for the holidays makes perfect sense.
They’re annuals, so you don’t need to fret about keeping them alive for a second season — just plant new ones next year. If you purchase full-grown plants at the garden center this winter, you’ll probably want to toss them out as soon as the fruit drops off.
One note about these: most of the species of hot peppers are really, really hot and not in the edible category. Eating the fruit can be especially irritable to young children.
Paul Tukey - November 22, 2005.
As a bonus, I dusted off some information about several other plants that are part of many holiday celebrations. They all have their merits . . .
Cyclamen — In white, red, lavender and pink, these members of the primrose family are one of the most prolific flowering plants for indoors. If you can keep your cyclamen in a bright room with cool evening temperatures between 50 and 60, with daytime temperatures at about 70, the plant may flower for several months.
After flowering, gradually withhold water until the foliage dies off. During this rest period, don’t water for six to eight weeks.
In the late spring and summer, you can move the pots into an area with little direct light. Cyclamen needs continually moist soil and won’t react well if it is allowed to wilt between waterings. Don’t keep the plant in standing water, though, and fertilize regularly while the new leaves form. Move the plants into more sunlight by early autumn and, with any luck, the plants will rebloom by the next holiday season.
Orchids — Many types of orchids work well as holiday decorations. Possibly the best and easiest to keep healthy is Cattleya trianea that blooms in white, pink or red.
If you purchase a new plant around the holidays, keep it in full sun at home through March. After that, indirect light will be best. Keep the area as humid as possible by setting the plant in a plastic or metal tray that has been filled to a depth of an inch or more with perlite or pebbles covered in water — but don’t let the roots of the orchid stand in water.
Amaryllis — This South African native is perhaps the most spectacular flowering plant for the holidays, coming in an assortment of vivid shades. It’s easy to bring to bloom simply by bringing the large bulb home and giving it water and a minimal amount of sun.
Getting the Amaryllis, Hippeastrum spp., to bloom in subsequent years will be the payback you’re looking for on a substantial investment. When the flowers are finished blooming, keep the pot in a sunny location, and continue to provide water and food throughout the spring and summer until the foliage dies back. You can event take the pot outside for the summer.
When the foliage is yellow or brown, cut it back and store the bulb in a cool, dry place with no water or sunlight.
After a month or three, repot the bulb in fresh potting mix, then water and feed it with bone meal or a fertilizer rich in phosphorus. Before long, the long stems should emerge from the soil and, with any luck, a spectacular bloom in time for next year.
Cape primrose — Another close cousin to the African violet, the Cape primrose, Streptocarpus spp., is easier to grow than gloxinia and the horn-shaped blooms are almost as large and more plentiful.
The good growers tell me a really light soil mix is key; purchase African violet mix and you can’t go wrong. Otherwise, grow your Cape primrose the same way you would a gloxinia or African violet, with moderate light and household temperatures. Avoid watering the foliage and keep constant moisture below the plant.
These will rebloom; in fact, if they’re really happy in the right soil mix, they’ll bloom indefinitely. If you can’t get them to bloom, always think first of the soil.
Kalanchoe — If you keep your home warm and want a holiday houseplant to thrive, this may be your choice. Kalanchoe, a native of Madagascar, will even forgive you for missing a watering, or two.
With rubbery textured leaves and glossy flowers, the plant can even look fake from a distance. I know I’ve pinched a few just to be sure.
As a houseplant in our climate, kalanchoe is oblivious to the seasons. When the flowers first die back, give the plant a rest period with reduced water, fertilizer and light. Unless it is too cold, it will likely begin to form new leaves and flower buds every other month or so. True kalanchoe afficionadoes will carefully monitor light levels during the rest period. The plant will reportedly put out bigger and more blossoms if light is limited to eight hours a day — with 16 hours in a closet — until flowering begins.
Reiger begonia — In the garden center, this is always a tempting plant for the holidays. Healthy specimens will literally be covered with red, orange, pink or white blossoms. With glossy leaves, it can make a spectacular centerpiece all on its own.
In my experience, though, they’re far more challenging in the home environment where they’ll react negatively to cool drafts, intense direct light when in bloom or the heat of a nearby furnace. They also like more humidity than can be found in most homes in winter, but this can be overcome by placing the plant atop a bed of pebbles and water — but don’t try to grow your Reiger in standing water.
The good news is that if you like these begonias, they’re rarely expensive. Purchasing a pot or two just for the holidays isn’t such a bad deal.
Chenile — Also known as red-hot cattail, or Acalypha hispida, this plant is among the most exotic of all houseplants. Nothing is more luxuriant that a chenille in full bloom, with cascading bright red “cattails” that resemble soft bottle brushes.
Think twice, though, before plunking down the $15 to $40 to bring a prime specimen home. These are difficult to grow in the typically dry home environment and, without the moisture available in a greenhouse setting, they will tend to drop their blossoms quickly.
Keep moisture under the pot, just as you would with begonias or orchids, but don’t put the plant in standing water.
“Don’t ever let the plant get cold,” said Ken Ellis of Sunset Greenhouses in Fairfield, Maine. “Give it as much sun as possible in the winter and at least half a day in the summer.”
Christmas peppers — A relatively new addition to the offerings of holiday plants, these “hot” peppers are the same members of the Capsicum annuum species that we use as ornamental peppers in the outdoor garden. In our climate, these peppers often need the later days of autumn and early winter to bear fruit anyway, so many people grow them in containers. Bringing them indoors for the holidays makes perfect sense.
They’re annuals, so you don’t need to fret about keeping them alive for a second season — just plant new ones next year. If you purchase full-grown plants at the garden center this winter, you’ll probably want to toss them out as soon as the fruit drops off.
One note about these: most of the species of hot peppers are really, really hot and not in the edible category. Eating the fruit can be especially irritable to young children.
Paul Tukey - November 22, 2005.
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
Yes, You Can Still Plant Bulbs
It’s Monday as I write this and, my goodness, I am sore from head to toe. This past weekend was a classic full-court fall cleanup, with wheelbarrows, shovels, rakes and the rototiller running from morning to night.
It felt good to go to bed Sunday night after accomplishing much of our To-Do list, but a few items remained. We still have about half of our 30 yards of compost waiting to be spread, a few shrubs yet to plant, and we still have hundreds of spring-blooming bulbs waiting to go into the ground.
I’m not panicking, not yet anyway. In southern Maine, where the soil is showing no sign of freezing anytime soon, I’m guessing that I’ll be able to plant bulbs until early to mid December. In northern areas, you may be in more of a rush, but chances are you still have time left, too.
Bulbs are gardening’s slam dunk. Stick them in the ground, ideally at least twice as deep as the bulbs’ diameter, and you’ll almost certainly be rewarded with a blossom next spring. Deer, squirrels, chipmunks and skunks are usually the only things that keep bulbs from blooming. If critters have historically been a problem, you can either spray the bulbs with a deer and squirrel deterrent available at your local garden center, or plant the bulbs under a layer of wire mesh. You can also plant daffodils in close proximity to the bulbs and they will act as nature’s own deterrent, since nothing — not even a hungry deer — will eat a daffodil bulb or blossom.
This is also a good time to prepare bulbs for indoor bloom in February and March. In the technique known as “forcing,” you can trick bulbs into thinking it’s spring several weeks ahead of time.
Here are the steps:
1) Pot the bulbs in a container with a drainage hole and fill it about halfway with potting soil. At least a couple of inches of soil below most bulbs would be ideal;
2) add some bone meal as fertilizer;
3) check the position; bulbs can be tightly packed, but shouldn’t be touching;
4) add water, enough to moisten all of the potting soil;
5) place the container in a cool, dark spot such as a protected porch, garage, unheated basement or the refrigerator shelf;
6) check the container regularly for about three months;
7) when shoots begin to emerge a couple of inches high, move the container into the full light and warmth and you should get blossoms within two to three weeks.
Plan ahead. If you start now, you can have blooming tulips by March, just about the time the flower shows are in full gear. You’ll have a flower show of your own on your kitchen table.
Paul Tukey - November 8, 2005.
It felt good to go to bed Sunday night after accomplishing much of our To-Do list, but a few items remained. We still have about half of our 30 yards of compost waiting to be spread, a few shrubs yet to plant, and we still have hundreds of spring-blooming bulbs waiting to go into the ground.
I’m not panicking, not yet anyway. In southern Maine, where the soil is showing no sign of freezing anytime soon, I’m guessing that I’ll be able to plant bulbs until early to mid December. In northern areas, you may be in more of a rush, but chances are you still have time left, too.
Bulbs are gardening’s slam dunk. Stick them in the ground, ideally at least twice as deep as the bulbs’ diameter, and you’ll almost certainly be rewarded with a blossom next spring. Deer, squirrels, chipmunks and skunks are usually the only things that keep bulbs from blooming. If critters have historically been a problem, you can either spray the bulbs with a deer and squirrel deterrent available at your local garden center, or plant the bulbs under a layer of wire mesh. You can also plant daffodils in close proximity to the bulbs and they will act as nature’s own deterrent, since nothing — not even a hungry deer — will eat a daffodil bulb or blossom.
This is also a good time to prepare bulbs for indoor bloom in February and March. In the technique known as “forcing,” you can trick bulbs into thinking it’s spring several weeks ahead of time.
Here are the steps:
1) Pot the bulbs in a container with a drainage hole and fill it about halfway with potting soil. At least a couple of inches of soil below most bulbs would be ideal;
2) add some bone meal as fertilizer;
3) check the position; bulbs can be tightly packed, but shouldn’t be touching;
4) add water, enough to moisten all of the potting soil;
5) place the container in a cool, dark spot such as a protected porch, garage, unheated basement or the refrigerator shelf;
6) check the container regularly for about three months;
7) when shoots begin to emerge a couple of inches high, move the container into the full light and warmth and you should get blossoms within two to three weeks.
Plan ahead. If you start now, you can have blooming tulips by March, just about the time the flower shows are in full gear. You’ll have a flower show of your own on your kitchen table.
Paul Tukey - November 8, 2005.
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