Thursday, September 17, 2009

Garden Jobs for September

Compost should be watered during dry periods so that it remains active.

Now is a good time to evaluate the success of this year's garden. Make notes that will help you improve your garden next spring.

This is the best time to plant dormant evergreen trees and shrubs.

Correct any soil deficiencies you've noticed. Healthy soil is crucial to healthy plants.

Check coniferous trees for tip damage on new growth. If the tips have been mutilated by borers or otherwise damaged, remove them and establish a new leader by forcing a new side shoot into an upright position.

Young trees should be staked to prevent the roots from being pulled by fall and winter winds.

If you haven't brought your houseplants in yet, do it before you have to start heating your home. This gives them a chance to adjust. Wash them thoroughly before bringing them in to rid them of any pests and eggs.

As perennials fade away, mark their locations with small sticks. Some might not be apparent after the winter and might be disrupted by spring cultivating.

Plant spring bulbs as long as the ground is workable. Plant the following bulbs soon: trout lily, narcissus (including daffodil), snowdrop, winter aconite, starflower, and crown imperial. For crown imperial, add a little lime to the soil.

Take cuttings from such outdoor plants as impatiens, coleus, and begonia. An early frost can ruin your chances for cutting at a later date.

Dig up your rosemary, basil, tarragon, oregano, marjoram, English thyme, parsley, and chives to grow them inside as houseplants. Keep them in a cool, sunny spot, and allow the soil to dry out before watering. Snip off the leaves as needed in the kitchen, but do not strip them completely.

Onions are nearly ripe when the tips of the leaves turn yellow. Break them at the necks. This will speed the final ripening process. Loosen the soil to encourage drying, and after a few days turn them up and let them cure on dry ground. Always handle them very carefully -- the slightest bruise will encourage rot to set in.

Clean out any older growth of mint. It can become a nuisance, running rampant. Leave the younger stock.

Cider made from blemished apples, known as drops, will be fine, but avoid using too many apples with bruises or open wounds. If rot has already set in, it will affect the taste and longevity of the cider.

Supplement your apple pies with fruit frozen or canned earlier in the season.

If you have unripe tomatoes still on the vine and frost is fast approaching, pull out the vines by the roots and hang them upside down in a cool, dark place.

Transplant rhubarb, strawberries, and raspberries well before the first light frost so that some root development may take place. Rhubarb and strawberries deplete the soil of nutrients in a short time, so find new locations for them every three or four years.

Sunflower seeds are best dried on the plants. The seeds will be difficult to remove if you harvest the plants before they die naturally. Cover the heads with cheesecloth if you need to protect your crops from the birds.


Check out our friends at The Old Farmers Almanac http://www.almanac.com/


Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Fire Pit Safety

Fire Pit Safety

Though a defining characteristic of fire pits is that they are designed to contain the components of the fire at all times, it is always most prudent to take safety measures in the event that very hot materials do manage to escape from its confines. Also, whenever using a fire pit, one should make sure to rake the surrounding area to remove dead leaves or other debris that could potentially catch on fire from stray sparks. A safety measure that one can employ is placing a screen over the fire pit which not only contains sparks underneath it, but also reduces the wind's impact and potentially enlarging the fire. Also, good yard keeping, monitoring the area surrounding the fire pit, and removing any low lying branches from above, or debris around it, is prudent. Fire pits have the potential to be dangerous; however the steps needed to be taken to ensure their safety are minimal, though important.


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Thursday, August 13, 2009

Gardening Jobs for August from Old Farmers Almanac

Compost should be watered during dry periods so that it remains active.

Prune only to retain the shape. Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons.

Mid-August through September is a good time to transplant any shrubs that you've purchased with root balls wrapped in burlap. Make sure you get them in the ground two to three days after purchase. Do not fertilize until the second year, when the feeding roots have become established.

Lawns or bare spots reseeded with grass now will have a chance to get established before winter sets in. Water often and mulch with hay.

In colder regions, houseplants that have been outside for the summer should be brought in at the end of this month. A sudden cold spell will be too much of a shock for them to survive. This is also a good time to take cuttings.

You can still enjoy garden flowers indoors. Sow these annuals inside: sweet alyssum, dwarf marigold, browallia, ageratum, and nasturtium. Grow them in a moderately cool (60 degrees F), sunny window.

Plant fall-flowering bulbs now.

Two or three leaves should be left when cutting gladiolus, so that the bulbs can ripen.

This is the month for transplanting Oriental poppies.

Rock-garden pants should be checked to see if they need thinning. Overcrowded plants will not stay healthy or attractive.

Sow these perennials outdoors for next spring: aquilegia, Phlox paniculata, digitalis, centaurea, and primrose.

Hardy lily bulbs may be planted in the ground and left to overwinter outdoors.

Cut back the flower stalks of perennials that have finished blooming. Cut delphinium flower stalks to the ground, and a new, though smaller, flower stalk will develop. The flower will survive the coming cold days and even light frosts.

Lift, divide, and replant Japanese and Siberian irises soon after bloom. Transplant them to places where they will have "wet feet but dry knees."

If you notice a gap in your perennial bed between spring and fall blooms, visit a local nursery to see what's in bloom there and ask the experts for advice on what to plant.

The vegetable garden is likely to require daily harvesting now. Cucumbers, squash, tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers should be picked as soon as the fruits are ready. This not only captures the best flavor, but it also makes way for new fruits.

Maximum flavor of herbs for drying is achieved by cutting them just before their flowers open.

Make sure that potatoes are not escaping into the sunlight. Hill or mulch them if they are.

Trenches of new asparagus beds should receive their final filling in this month.

Remove dead pea vines, bolted lettuce, and other plants that have gone by and add them to the compost pile. If they show signs of disease, however, burn them.

Separate melons from the ground with a thin board to prevent decay or damage from wireworms.

Cut out raspberry and blackberry canes that have just finished fruiting.

Most perennials outgrow their containers and require repotting every two or three years

Monday, July 27, 2009

Plants for Fall Color

Well I hate to say it but Summer is winding down. Here in the Northeast were Landscape Vision is based, we have hardly had a summer. Rain has been on the menu most days. So with thoughts of Fall, here's a list of plants for spectacular color in your garden. (List came from our friends at the Old Farmers Almanac)

http://www.almanac.com/garden/index.php#design


PERENNIALS
Sedum 'Autumn Joy'
S. 'Matrona'
Canadian burnet (Sanguisorba canadensis)
Blue monkshood (Aconitum carmichaelii)
Hardy chrysanthemum 'Venus'
Hardy chrysanthemum 'Sheffield'
Lycoris (Lycoris squamigera)
Boltonia asteroides 'Snowbank'
Black cohosh, snakeroot, or bugbane (Cimicifuga racemosa)
Bugbane 'Hillside Black Beauty'
Aster x frikartii 'Monch'
A. x frikartii 'Wunder von Stafa'

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Hameln'
Miscanthus sinensis 'Silberfeder'
M. sinensis 'Purpurascens'
M. sinensis 'Morning Light'
M. sinensis 'Zebrinus'
Bouteloua gracilis 'Blue Grama'
Chasmanthium latifolium 'Wild Oats'

VINES
Sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora)
Clematis 'Ville de Lyons'
Clematis 'Henryii'
C. orientalis
Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata)
Virginia creeper (P. quinquefolia)

SHRUBS
Enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus)
Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
V. 'Chicago Lustre'
Linden viburnum (V. dilatatum)
Common witch-hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
Enkianthus (H. mollis)
Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) 'Henry's Garnet'
Fothergilla gardenii 'Blue Mist'
Beauty berry (Callicarpa)
C. bodinieri 'Profusion'
C. japonica
Winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata) 'Winter Red'
Winterberry holly (I. verticillata) 'Red Sprite'
Winterberry holly (I. verticillata)
'Winter Gold'
Winterberry holly (I. verticillata) 'Chrysocarpa'

CAMELLIAS
Tea-oil camellia (Camellia oleifera)
C. oleifera 'Winter's Beauty'
C. oleifera 'Winter's Dream'
C. oleifera 'Winter's Sunset' <