Saturday, July 02, 2011

Create Knockout Gardens


The end of January celebrates the start of the new gardening season with the Tacoma Home & Garden Show, the first big show of the spring season that opens Jan. 26 at the Tacoma Dome.
The best part about any winter show is the spark of energy that ignites with the anticipation of spring. Last week I wrote about the new Double Take quince and disease-free Home Run roses, two newbies that I’ll be giving away at the Tacoma Home & Garden Show. But this week the real question for gardeners is this: How does one fit in more plants to an already full garden?
This is not the time to give up and throw in the trowel. Every garden can be improved every year with the right editing, layering and landscaping techniques. Our green world depends on gardeners to keep planting, keep growing and keep knowing that the more habitats we humans destroy, the more home gardeners must plant. Birds, butterflies and other winged wonders need a diversity of plant material to make it through the winters in Western Washington.
One of my talks at the Tacoma Home & Garden Show will teach how to improve the landscape by building better garden beds with more color and fewer weeds.
Here are some take-away tips just in case you won’t be able to visit me at the show – but let me remind all gardeners – I like to give away plants and other gifts to people in the audience.
CREATING KNOCKOUT GARDENS
These ideas will pack a punch and help you wallop the weeds.
1. Plant closer together.
With beds crowded so that shrubs link arms, perennials are planted in the petticoat zone under the skirts of trees and shrubs. Use of annuals that spill over the boundaries will create a landscape with less weeding, pleading and feeding to keep it looking good.
2. Grow up – we’ve always had some mighty fine vines.
We are lucky to live in Western Washington where clematis is the queen of the vines and you don’t need a lattice to enjoy a clematis. Let your vines decorate upright shrubs such as Nandina and rhododendrons. Act like the English and look at every tree in your landscape as a living support for a flowering vine.
3. Evergreens provide safe havens.
During wild winter weather, whoever has the most evergreen shrubs wins when it comes to protecting our birds. I’ve been known to gossip about the ever-boring juniper plants but plants with thick winter cover such as junipers, cypress, laurel and yew become the safe havens for chickadees and other small birds during storms. These dense evergreens are also the places where butterflies cocoon and other beneficial insects can safely deposit their eggs and ensure the next generation of good bugs in your garden.
Evergreens add structure to the garden and hospitality for the garden creatures.
4. Groundcovers are the groundwork of less maintenance.
Think beyond pachysandra and English ivy. To create a knockout garden, think about the effect of hellebores carpeting the ground under dogwoods, lamiums filling in at the feet of rhododendrons and woodland bulbs turning your shaded areas into the jewel box gardens of spring. Ground-cover plants do need maintenance – but trimming and spot weeding are a lot less work than the constant weeding required of naked soil.
5. Learn to layer
The real secret of creating knockout gardens is to layer plants with different bloom times, punch it up with focal-point plants and organize the landscape into feature gardens for different seasons of the year. We live in a place where we can have four seasons of color, texture and natural beauty.
Leaving the world more beautiful than it was before you arrived is a noble goal –and with a knockout landscape you can do your part.
Marianne Binetti is the author of “Easy Answers for Great Gardens” and eight other gardening books. She has a degree in horticulture from Washington State University and will answer questions from her website at www. binettigarden.com.
Meet Marianne
Marianne Binetti will speak at the Tacoma Home & Garden Show at 2 p.m. every day of the show’s run. The show runs Jan 26-30 inside the Tacoma Dome. Admission is $8-$10. Visit www.otshows.com or call 253-756-2121 for more information. Check back next Wednesday for a story here about some of the show highlights.
Check out our landscape design software to create your knockout gardens  Landscape Vision
Read more: http://www.thenewstribune.com/2011/01/19/1507871/create-knockout-gardens-with-color.html#ixzz1R0XpVjWN

Monday, June 20, 2011

Rose Problems

     

Rose Problems July 30, 2009  
Sandra Mason
Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment
Champaign County Unit
801 Country Fair Drive
Suite D
Champaign, IL 61821
Phone: 217-333-7672
FAX: 217-333-7683
slmason@illinois.edu. 

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet, but might not get as many diseases. Rose problems can become rampant this time of year. Here are a few of the possibilities.
Blackspot is a common fungal disease of roses. It can completely defoliate roses by fall, which weakens the plant and shows the plant's not-so-attractive prickly legs. Blackspot causes (you guessed it) black spots on the leaves, starting at the bottom of the plant and moving upward. Infected leaves eventually turn yellow and fall off. Infection can also appear on canes as reddish-purple spots.
The best way to combat blackspot is to select resistant varieties; however keep in mind even resistant varieties may still be infected when weather is conducive to disease. As with most fungal diseases infection is more serious during rainy weather. The fungus overwinters in fallen leaves and stem cankers. Raking and removing leaves in the fall may provide some control. Avoid wetting leaves when watering and give plants good air circulation. Mulching also helps keep water from splashing up onto the leaves. If you choose to use fungicides such as Funginex, Daconil, or Mancozeb they should be started in spring as new leaves appear. Spraying now would protect only new leaves.
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects young leaves, causing them to curl, twist and develop a purple coloration. As the disease progresses, leaves become covered with white powder. Blackspot is usually most severe on the lower part of the plant but mildew in roses affects the top part of the plant. Mildew is spread by wind and develops rapidly during periods of warm, humid days followed by cool nights. Infection can be reduced through sanitation by pruning out all dead and diseased canes and with fungicide sprays concentrating on coverage of the new growth. Once again plant roses in areas where they receive good air circulation.
When rose rosette disease first appeared it looked as though it would be a great natural control of the pesky weed, multiflora rose. Unfortunately it didn't stick to wild roses and has now moved into cultivated roses. The symptoms are easy to spot. This is definitely a "wow, what's wrong with this plant" moment. Rose rosette causes plants to form very thick, multiple red stems with extreme thorniness. Leaves may also appear deep red, or a mix of red, yellow and green. Leaves are often distorted and stunted.
Rose rosette is a virus-like disease. Plants usually die within about 22 months of infection. The disease can be spread from rose to rose by a tiny mite, so small that 20 would fit on a pinhead (30 if they hold hands).
Grafting can also spread rose rosette. Sorry, plants infected with rose rosette cannot be cured so rip them out roots and all. Bury the carcass with proper ceremony.
It's hard to talk about rose problems without also discussing the dreaded Japanese beetles. If you have a few beetles, one tactic is a daily harvest of the beasts into a container (my favorite is a 2 lb. coffee container with the lid) filled with soapy water. If you have mass quantities of beetles, insecticide sprays of carbaryl sold as Sevin or synthetic pyrethroids such as permethrin and bifenthrin can be used. Keep in mind Sevin is toxic to beneficial insects as well. Systemic insecticides such as imidacloprid are most effective if applied in spring. Read and follow all label directions. Forget beetle traps. They attract more than they catch. For more rose information check out the UI Extension Our Rose Garden website. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/roses/
If your roses look wretched, take plant samples to your local UI Extension office http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/state/index.html or to UI Plant Clinic http://plantclinic.cropsci.illinois.edu/ at 1401 W. St. Mary's Road Urbana, IL 61802; 217-333-0519.
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Sunday, June 19, 2011

Landscape Design and Maintenance Ideas

This is a great article, full of useful advise, not just for those in Texas. Check it out